New wheels (fuggin FINALLY!)

[redline]

years ago I was given the following advice which should make the poition clearer
Nuts for alloy wheels are also made from steel but have a collar/ring around the nut where it touches the wheel. This is to spread the load out across the hole in the wheel to protect the wheel.
result of not having the correct wheel nuts will resolve in the wheel nut being drawn into the softer metal, and eventually elongating the holes and damaging the alloy wheels

[volvosneverdie]

Er.
Thought you were going to make it clearer there mick.
Adam says stocks are fine, then you pull this "may damage the wheel" rabbit out of the nut-hat.

Im selling them.
Fish anyone?

[340GLT]

Take a look at your wheels, for a start they have steel nut seats.... ALll will be fine, i run my comps on standard nuts up until i put the ally ones on there....
Adam

[volvosneverdie]

Cheers again man.

[filthyjohn]

Alloy is softer than steel but if you do them up with a torque wrench (use mine Ben) I'd have thought there'd be no movement occuring to cause any abrasion. None of my steel nuts have ever burrowed through an alloy rim, but I stand to be corrected if anyone's seen damage from this type of thing.

[volvosneverdie]

Then all is well.
This pleases me.
Has anyone ever seen more deliberation, reasurance and general faffing round over putting a set of wheels on?
This seriously could be a new world record.
Two pages of thread, and im nearly there.
Might have to change my signature to- thanks for all your help everyone. Again.

[nomead]

I'm here to add something to all the confusion...

There are several things and they all vary according to the specific alloy wheel you're mounting.

1. The alloy wheel centre is thicker than on a steelie, so on cars with bolts, the bolt thread should be longer. On 300s though we have wheel nuts. All you need to check is that the thread is long enough so that the nut is holding on to the hub-mounted bolt with more than just 2-3 turns.

2. Some alloy wheels have steel seats in the stud hole, in which case normal conical (steel wheel) nuts are fine.

3. Some alloy wheels however may have a flat seat and no steel. These need special nuts and a washer in between... also they absolutely need tightening to a torque, and checking that tightening after driving for a while or they may come loose.

4. To further complicate things, there are also wheels with ball seats...

[volvosneverdie]

Thanks nomead.
Thats quite a clear and consise guide youve put together there.
Im sure its going to be of help to quite a few forum browsers.
Well done indeed.
Very good work.