Hello.. Sorry for the first post help request!
So, to cut a long story short I've got my heart set on a 340 with the old Renault 1.8 16v conversion.. Insurance quotes have ben got and are good (woo for Footman James!) and it's time to get rid of my current car and get something fun which has a bit of character:D
Before I jump in though, there's a few things I'm not quite 100% on, any help would be much appreciated...
Firstly, and most importantly, can I get my a couple of mountain bikes in the back of one of these with the rear seat down and the front wheels off?
What's the deal with the 1.4 and 16v conversions... From lurking here and on the internet in general I gather that it's a case of needing the 1.7 sub-frame / engine mounts and a 1.7 sump? I can't find any 1.7's for sale at the moment but don't want to hurry and buy a 1.4 only to find a whole world of pain in the ass:)
16v conversion exhausts... I can weld, it's a simple case of joining one pipe onto another I assume?
In fact most of the info I've picked up on the conversion has come in dribs and drabs from various sources, if there's a link to a good source of info that'd be very handy!
Springs / Lowering blocks: I understand knocking 2 inches off results in a car with improved handling, but without grounding out problems... Feel fairly confidant on that one but do tell me if I'm wrong!
*just realized I'm allowed to swear here, i'd been holding it in just in case*
*and away it went again*
Any thoughts on body style? Aside from the 3 door looking far nicer IMHO, is there any reason to go for any particular shape?
Right, errrm.. Think I should stop now, there's probably more but god dammit it's nearly 5 in the morning.
I should mention RE:the conversion that I'm fairly average with mechanics, but competent, I'd like to think. Most of my car knowledge comes from the as yet unfinished '71 beetle project (roadworthy but not really there yet) so it's not al entirely relevant to stuff with injection and water cooling.. I trust it's within my skills-range though, unless there's anything nasty to watch out for...
Thanks:)
***--- Edited by Chris
Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
Last edited by Jonofdoom on 08 May 2009 07:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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pistonpen paultje
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Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
Good choice on that one!
Mountainbikes: As long as u don't get a saloon, you can probably put 5 mtb's in there. It's a good carrier! I've been on biking vacation in it, with all the camping gears, and 2 bikes in the back... no prob's!
Best off would be a 1700 to start with...But since they are rare (specially if you want a 3 door), people often use a 1.4 with a 1.7 donor, or get some parts from a wrecker. If u get a 1.4: Take one from after '86. Cause early ones have different rad's, and that needs a lot of grinding and stuff. But if your not too hasty, i would just look for a 1.7. They are findable (not much, also here in the Netherlands), and it saves a lot of time wasted on looking for parts. If i had only took a 1.7 as a base, i would allready have finished my car (took a 343 of '77, that's a lot more work!)
If your still in process of finding an engine: Look for a F7R (2 liter williams). There a lot better available over there in the UK, then here in the NL. It's a better start!
Most people make a custom downpipe, and connect it too the 1.7 pipe. But it would be better to put a 60mm from front to rear in it, with 2 non ristrictive dampers. Im currently in the progress to let a company make some nice downpipes to fit williams manifold. Updates will follow.
About the handling: Classicswede (dai) has some nice springs and stuff to fit the 340. Get yourself a set of uprated and shortened front springs, with 2" drop's on the back. Dampers on the rear can be taken from Spax (also @ dai), landrover defender front one's, or from some classic Alfa's. Fronts are really difficult to get hold of. If u still have the original dampers (Without replacement inserts) you can put thicker oil in there. I had the luck to find 2 sets of KONI adjustable's. But were not all that lucky...
List of Every parts
If u take a 1.4 from '86 or later:
- 1.7 Sump
- 1.7 bellhouse/clutchhouse
- 1.7 clutch (use the 1.7 flywheel)
- 1.7 front engine mount's (with the dynamomount too)
- 1.7 coolant hoses (That's still one of my problems: I see all 16v's with orignal coolant hoses, but that doesn't work out on my engine, as the pipes on the engine are at a different angle??)
- If you want to keep your heaterbox: Get your inletmanifold rewelded
- Redone downpipe
- The 16v engineloom needs to be rewired. Easy fix with a clio manual or something (there are pics of that on the board, look for it!)
- Spigot bearing of a 1.7. Get a new one, as you can't get it out of the 1.7 properly. Dai has them, or measure it up and go to a bearingshop.
- Guys, Am i missing something? Can't really think of anything...
For the rewelded inletmanifold and engineloom, you can PB Adam (340GLT). He makes all those parts for a small price!
Don't be too worried about this project. It's all really straight forward. Just get the right car for it...As I said, I took a LHD 343 from 77 with incorrect wiring, CVT (no room for a gearstick on 76/77 343's too!). That's about the worst base you can begin from!
Mountainbikes: As long as u don't get a saloon, you can probably put 5 mtb's in there. It's a good carrier! I've been on biking vacation in it, with all the camping gears, and 2 bikes in the back... no prob's!
Best off would be a 1700 to start with...But since they are rare (specially if you want a 3 door), people often use a 1.4 with a 1.7 donor, or get some parts from a wrecker. If u get a 1.4: Take one from after '86. Cause early ones have different rad's, and that needs a lot of grinding and stuff. But if your not too hasty, i would just look for a 1.7. They are findable (not much, also here in the Netherlands), and it saves a lot of time wasted on looking for parts. If i had only took a 1.7 as a base, i would allready have finished my car (took a 343 of '77, that's a lot more work!)
If your still in process of finding an engine: Look for a F7R (2 liter williams). There a lot better available over there in the UK, then here in the NL. It's a better start!
Most people make a custom downpipe, and connect it too the 1.7 pipe. But it would be better to put a 60mm from front to rear in it, with 2 non ristrictive dampers. Im currently in the progress to let a company make some nice downpipes to fit williams manifold. Updates will follow.
About the handling: Classicswede (dai) has some nice springs and stuff to fit the 340. Get yourself a set of uprated and shortened front springs, with 2" drop's on the back. Dampers on the rear can be taken from Spax (also @ dai), landrover defender front one's, or from some classic Alfa's. Fronts are really difficult to get hold of. If u still have the original dampers (Without replacement inserts) you can put thicker oil in there. I had the luck to find 2 sets of KONI adjustable's. But were not all that lucky...
List of Every parts
If u take a 1.4 from '86 or later:
- 1.7 Sump
- 1.7 bellhouse/clutchhouse
- 1.7 clutch (use the 1.7 flywheel)
- 1.7 front engine mount's (with the dynamomount too)
- 1.7 coolant hoses (That's still one of my problems: I see all 16v's with orignal coolant hoses, but that doesn't work out on my engine, as the pipes on the engine are at a different angle??)
- If you want to keep your heaterbox: Get your inletmanifold rewelded
- Redone downpipe
- The 16v engineloom needs to be rewired. Easy fix with a clio manual or something (there are pics of that on the board, look for it!)
- Spigot bearing of a 1.7. Get a new one, as you can't get it out of the 1.7 properly. Dai has them, or measure it up and go to a bearingshop.
- Guys, Am i missing something? Can't really think of anything...
For the rewelded inletmanifold and engineloom, you can PB Adam (340GLT). He makes all those parts for a small price!
Don't be too worried about this project. It's all really straight forward. Just get the right car for it...As I said, I took a LHD 343 from 77 with incorrect wiring, CVT (no room for a gearstick on 76/77 343's too!). That's about the worst base you can begin from!
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volvosneverdie
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Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
Welcome to the forum mate. 
Think pauls done a comprehensive guide there (can we cut/paste, and sticky it mods?)
The valver conversion has been said by many to be one of the easiest engine swaps so I think youve picked a good project mate.
And you get a LOT of zoom for the £.
Might be worth fitting a rev limiter too.
A few have been blowing up recently.
I too can vouch for Dais updated short springs mate. The handling beforehand was all wallow and roll, and after it feels a lot firmer and throwable. I'd make that your first point of call if you're running it as a dailly. Makes the car a lot more fun/livable.
For the money, you just can't get a better rwd hatch mate. If youd settle for a 5 door, you can pick one up for pennies, or if you hold out for a 1.7 three door you might have a long wait.
You can always put a 1.7 valver conversion parts wanted ad in the wanted section.
I'm sure people have got what youd need.
Good luck with the hunt dude.
First rule of buying a 300 is: the good ones are pretty much always the furthest away. Sods 300 law.
Think pauls done a comprehensive guide there (can we cut/paste, and sticky it mods?)
The valver conversion has been said by many to be one of the easiest engine swaps so I think youve picked a good project mate.
And you get a LOT of zoom for the £.
Might be worth fitting a rev limiter too.
A few have been blowing up recently.
I too can vouch for Dais updated short springs mate. The handling beforehand was all wallow and roll, and after it feels a lot firmer and throwable. I'd make that your first point of call if you're running it as a dailly. Makes the car a lot more fun/livable.
For the money, you just can't get a better rwd hatch mate. If youd settle for a 5 door, you can pick one up for pennies, or if you hold out for a 1.7 three door you might have a long wait.
You can always put a 1.7 valver conversion parts wanted ad in the wanted section.
I'm sure people have got what youd need.
Good luck with the hunt dude.
First rule of buying a 300 is: the good ones are pretty much always the furthest away. Sods 300 law.
Last edited by volvosneverdie on 08 May 2009 07:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
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pistonpen paultje
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- Joined: 24 Jan 2007 07:53 pm
Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
volvosneverdie wrote:Might be worth fitting a rev limiter too.
A few have been blowing up recently.
Ah, that's worth saying too:
Original ECU has a rev-limiter, offcourse...!
But some on here (like me) have put carb's on it. One option is bikecarbs on it (R1's, for instance), or webers DCOE/Dellorto DHLA/Solex ADDHE (there are manifolds for that available at about 170 quid). Then you surely need an rev-limiter!
Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
Excellent stuff.. Very good posts, thanks:D
Particularly that the bikes won't be a problem:D
From the look of that list there's a bit more 1.7 specific stuff needed to convert the 1.4 than I'd hoped.. I can imagine it being a pain in the ass finding them all... I'll keep trying for a 1.7 I think. For now at least.. Anyone got any leads?
I think I can live with a 5 door if I have to. Although I'll always hanker after the 3 door, I've only got a few weeks to find one.. I can even see myself going with the 1.4 and the extra work if time runs out:)
In fact, I wouldn't be surprised at all if I had to go 1.4, dammit I should've done all this a month ago!
'86 or later on the 1.4, noted...
Also F7R.. Cool. Will check insurance for the 2L and see how it goes.
Would want to stick with the standard injection for simplicity of conversion, for the time being anyway... I definitely want to keep all heating functions, so the heaterbox will need to stay! What kind of modifications would the inlet manifold need? Stuff a half decent welder with a 130amp mig could handle?
Ta!
Particularly that the bikes won't be a problem:D
From the look of that list there's a bit more 1.7 specific stuff needed to convert the 1.4 than I'd hoped.. I can imagine it being a pain in the ass finding them all... I'll keep trying for a 1.7 I think. For now at least.. Anyone got any leads?
I think I can live with a 5 door if I have to. Although I'll always hanker after the 3 door, I've only got a few weeks to find one.. I can even see myself going with the 1.4 and the extra work if time runs out:)
In fact, I wouldn't be surprised at all if I had to go 1.4, dammit I should've done all this a month ago!
'86 or later on the 1.4, noted...
Also F7R.. Cool. Will check insurance for the 2L and see how it goes.
Would want to stick with the standard injection for simplicity of conversion, for the time being anyway... I definitely want to keep all heating functions, so the heaterbox will need to stay! What kind of modifications would the inlet manifold need? Stuff a half decent welder with a 130amp mig could handle?
Ta!
Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
Feeling good about the suspension by the way, I had noticed it was all available from here.. Glad I found the place:D
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pistonpen paultje
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- Joined: 24 Jan 2007 07:53 pm
Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
Its a alluminium inletmanifold. So not a job a normal welding machine would take...The throttle body needs to be flipped over to the side of the radiator in stead of the firewall. Adam (340GLT) has posted some pics of that in his original topic...
Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
Ahh righto, that makes sense.. Ta:)
Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
If you want to get bikes in, get a 5door. It's damn helpful being able to reach in from the side with someone else on lifting them in the rear hatch to save screwing the interior up.
1.7 5 door I'd say you want.
Only thing I didn't see in Pauls post is fuel lines, they need to be converted from carb (low pressure) to FI (high pressure) with appropriate pump change as well.
Oh, and swear and one of us will edit your posts. We don't have rules on here for people to be prats, we don't have rules as most people have common sense.
1.7 5 door I'd say you want.
Only thing I didn't see in Pauls post is fuel lines, they need to be converted from carb (low pressure) to FI (high pressure) with appropriate pump change as well.
Oh, and swear and one of us will edit your posts. We don't have rules on here for people to be prats, we don't have rules as most people have common sense.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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volvosneverdie
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- Location: Newcastle Upon Toon
Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
Standard 1.4 with heaterbox under windscreen:
Valver conversion with heaterbox removed:
So thats what youve got to work around mate.
Hope that helps a bit man.
Valver conversion with heaterbox removed:
So thats what youve got to work around mate.
Hope that helps a bit man.
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volvosneverdie
- *** V3M DONOR ***
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- Joined: 11 Nov 2008 04:22 pm
- Location: Newcastle Upon Toon
Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
And yeah, im only 8 years old, so please dont swear.
its rude.
its rude.
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pistonpen paultje
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Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
Some notes on that: Your first pic is a MK2 heaterbox. Used from '78 till '85...MK3 has another kind of heaterbox. And second picture is Adam's white car. I think he just took the box of for installing the engine, as he already has the rewelded inlet manifoldvolvosneverdie wrote:Standard 1.4 with heaterbox under windscreen:
Valver conversion with heaterbox removed:
So thats what youve got to work around mate.
Hope that helps a bit man.
Good one on the fuel-pump btw. Forgot that!
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volvosneverdie
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Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
*photos for illustration purposes only!*
Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
Flipped inlet manifold, courtesy of Adams amazing aluminium welder. No heater box in pic, strangely don't think i've got any with it all in there.
* Edit- so basicaly the same as VND already posted
* Edit- so basicaly the same as VND already posted
89 3dr 340DL in Battleship grey with Ultralights and Williams power
Whats the matter with the car i'm driving can't you tell that it's out of style?
Whats the matter with the car i'm driving can't you tell that it's out of style?
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volvosneverdie
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Re: Some Volvo 300 questions from a noob if you don't mind:)
That inlet manifold is fugn awesome man.
