How Many Gaskets Do I Need For A Weber 32DIR Carburetor?

[Justin]

I have a leak coming from the bottom of my carb on my volvo 340.

I've managed to track a weber parts company down and they've sent me an insulator block which appears to be the correct part. A brilliant mechanic friend has suggested that I replace all the insulator blocks/gaskets together. Does anyone know how many there are in total on a weber 32DIR carb?

I can see that I will need another smaller insulator block that sits above the one thats leaking and it seems like there are two small gaskets on the side of the carb and two larger ones near the top.

Somebody please advise!

J

[volvodspec]

if you order a 32 dir refurbishing kit, all gaskets are deliverd except the gasket that is between intake manifold and 5mm thick black insulation block. this gasket was grouped in headgasket kit.

advantage of a 32 dir refurbishing kit is that you also get various o-rings, a new floaterneedle etc. so you can open up the carb and swap the whole lot + correcting the floater height. it's an easy carb, if you refurbish them just as often as i do you'll be done in less than an hour

[Justin]

The 5mm insulation block that you've mentioned, is that the thicker one at the very bottom? There is a slightly thinner one above it, is that what you call the manifold gasket?

J

[volvodspec]

i'm dutch and i am definatly having some troubles trying to translate al that technical stuff in english ask me in dutch and i can write you like 25 pages about the weber 32 dir, it's problems, how to refurbish and so on..

from manifold to carb:

- gasket with oval hole
- 5mm black filling plate
- gasket with oval hole
- carb heated base
- multi gasket (thin cardboard-piece of plastic about 4mm thick-thin cardboard) 2 holes in it
- base of carb


there's another gasket, for the floatercover. a very important one aswell, if this gasket strucks a leak very weird things kan happen...

[Justin]

There must be a second black filling plate which is also called an insulator block, it sits above the very lowest one which Im assuming is the 5mm one?

j

[volvodspec]

nope, just the list as i posted above, there is a 3piece gasket also mentioned in the list

[Justin]

But there is definately another black filling plate on my carb above the very bottom one?

Also, would I be Ok just replacing the 5mm black filling plate on my carb which is the one thats weeping petrol, I ask because a mechanic friend has suggested that I refurb the entire carb when I replace the black filling plate, it might be cheaper just to get another carb from a scrapyard?

[volvodspec]

so the gaskets number 1 and 3 on my list above are the ones that leak? these gaskets can easaly be replaced with a universal 1mm gasket, home made . originals had a metal reinforcement but that isn't all that nescecary.

anyway, if you have more black plates or gaskets than i mentioned above, the factory didn't place em and so they don't belong there;)

a good refurbishment is worth 100.000 carbs from the scrapyard. if you refurbish it, you'll instantly learn a lot about the carb and you know that everything is well again. just swapping another carb from the scrapyard won't guaranty the same result.

also, especially because it's a weber you'll have to watch out for the number behind the 32 dir section, on 340 this can be 83,93, 101, 104, 105, 109, 110. you can't just swap em out because these carbs are internly different! you're ignition system (number of renix or the old fashioned mechanic ignition) needs to correspond) with the carb and there's a significant difference in the b14.0,b14.1,b14.2,b14.3 and b14.4 heads that will affect fuel consumption and performance if messed up. there are 2 know carbs that can be swapped, a 104 for a 109 and vise versa, and a 105 for a 110 and vise versa.

[Justin]

Could the fact that I have a second slightly thinner black filling plate be down to my specific Volvo? It is a 1988 volvo 340DL 1.4, it is the thicker black filling plate at the very bottom of the carb that's leaking petrol?

It also appears that on the side of my carb there are two very small gaskets that will be needed?

I will try and post a photo on this thread to make things a bit clearer.

J

[volvodspec]

Could the fact that I have a second slightly thinner black filling plate be down to my specific Volvo? It is a 1988 volvo 340DL 1.4, it is the thicker black filling plate at the very bottom of the carb that's leaking petrol?

nope, i own a '86 and a '89 340 1.4, and i've worked on all 100+ b14's with all the different carbs, from '77 343 till 1991 340. they allways have the same amount and order of gaskets. (excluding b14.3 with solex, that one is different )

post some pics for me mate, i like a challenge

[Justin]

A UK FIRM CALLED GOWER & LEE WHO SUPPLY CARB KITS SENT ME THE FOLLOWING IN AN EMAIL TODAY:
The only gaskets in the kit are the top float chamber gasket and the throttle body gasket, the flange gasket/insulator block gaskets are not included. The other components in the kit are the needle valve & seat, filter, mixture screw, accelerator pump, choke pull off & enrichment valve diaphragms.

I ALREADY HAVE THE LOWEST BLACK FILLING PLATE WHICH GOWER & LEE ARE CALLING A FLANGE GASKET/INSULATOR BLOCK SO WILL HAVE TO GET THE THINNER ONE THAT SITS ABOVE IT WHICH IM POINTING TO IN THE FOLLOWING PHOTO:









THE BLACK PIPE EXITS THE CARB BETWEEN TWO BLACK FILLING PLATES, A THICKER ONE AT THE BOTTOM AND A SLIGHTLY THINNER ONE ABOVE IT, IT'S THIS BLACK FILLING PLATE THAT YOU SEEM TO THINK DOESN'T EXIST!

J

[volvodspec]

from manifold to carb:

- gasket with oval hole
- 5mm black filling plate
- gasket with oval hole
- carb heated base
- multi gasket (thin cardboard-piece of plastic about 4mm thick-thin cardboard) 2 holes in it
- base of carb

on your pics, i can clearly identify the list as above.

there's another gasket, for the floatercover. a very important one aswell, if this gasket strucks a leak very weird things kan happen...

at your third pic just by your fingernail is this gasket, take off the paper gasket at the top of the carb and you will find 5 screws to bolt the floaterchamber cover to the carb base, retighten if they are loose.

also at the third pic, about 3cm lower than your finger you will find the acceleration membrame, the cover of it is bolted on with 4 screws. if you repeatatly apply throttle, see if any petrol leaks down from it.

at your first pic, 2 of the 4 nuts for the carb base are to be seen, are the 4 nuts still tight?
if you remove the carb for new gaskets, make sure to check if the base of the carb heated piece is as flat as a mirror.

[Justin]

IS THE BASE OF THE CARB THE PART THAT IM POINTING TO IN PICTURE-1? IT HAS A BLACK PIPE EMERGING FROM IT, BELOW THIS BLACK PIPE IS WHERE I HAVE PETROL LEAKING WHICH YOU CAN SEE IN THE PICTURE AS IT'S VERY WET. THE PART I WAS SENT TO REMEDY THIS PROBLEM IS CALLED A FLANGE GASKET/INSULATOR BLOCK. AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE PICTURE THERE IS ALSO ANOTHER ONE ABOVE THE BLACK PIPE.

IS THE 5MM BLACK FILLING PLATE YOU REFER TO NEARER THE TOP OF THE CARB?

ALSO WILL I BE ABLE TO REPLACE THE FLOATER COVER GASKET BY JUST USING A UNIVERSAL 1MM GASKET?

THE LIST BELOW IS WHAT'S INCLUDED IN GOWER & LEE'S 32-DIR REFURB KIT:
1.Top float chamber gasket
2.Throttle body gasket
3.Needle valve & seat
4.Filter
5.Mixture screw
6.Accelerator pump
7.Choke pull off
8.Enrichment valve diaphragms.
The flange gasket/insulator block gaskets are not included.

[volvodspec]

please dude, turn off the caps-lock..

the piece that that black pipe comes from is the pre-heating block. it is called this way since there are 2 coolant hoses on the other side of the carb wich heat/cool this piece to keep mixture from freezing. the black pipe however is connected to a tiny channel connected to the inside of the base, where it gets vacuum from the engine. the black pipe is connected to the crankcase breather t-piece.

below the pre-heating block, you have the bigger 5mm block with a gasket on each side. these gaskets can easaly be copied with universal 2mm thick gasketpaper. these are simple, just 4 bolt holes and a big oval hole in the middle. the 5mm thick black insulation plate will only need replacement if it is broken or cracks are visible.

but however, this is a very strange place for the carb to "leak" petrol, since at this point the mixture is subjected to full vacuum and will only get sucked into the engine, not blown out..

[Justin]

right, so the pre-heating block is the part below the base of the carb?

the 5mm block i was sent has already got the gasket attached either side of it. my old one must be cracked for it to be leaking unless the four bolts aren't fully tightened which i'll check tomorrow.

what size is the slightly thinner block above the black pipe on the pre-heating block, 3mm?

i was just going to replace the 5mm block where it's wet until a friend said i might aswell rehaul the entire carb whilst im at it.

i just need to know exactly what i will need to do this as it appears the company im dealing with doesn't supply all the necessary parts in their kit.

the following is what they do supply:
1.Top float chamber gasket
2.Throttle body gasket
3.Needle valve & seat
4.Filter
5.Mixture screw
6.Accelerator pump
7.Choke pull off
8.Enrichment valve diaphragms.
The flange gasket/insulator block gaskets are not included.