Well my cars a 340, 1.7 1989.
It was running fine and being used daily, then was parked up for about a week and a half. When i tried to start it again it really didnt want to start, infact i flattened the battery trying to get it going and had to hook up another to get it started, finally it started, and was running fine if i kept it above 1500 rpm using the throttle pedal, but as soon as it went below that it would cut out. It was warm as well, restarted it a few times with some trouble, and it still cut out if revs dropped below 1500 rpm (choke was off). In the end it wouldnt start. After it failed to start at all, we had the air filter cover off to check the choke and so on, and when the throttle pedal was pushed down the valve opened and some thick smoke come out which was wierd. The choke seems to be working fine, moving pedal in and moving the valve thing in the carb.
Im guessing its fuel pump or something as there wasnt much fuel in the fuel filter in the engine bay, and the fact it was cutting out when revs dropped as there wouldnt be much "suck" from the engine to pull fuel through. Any ways im not really sure so i thought i would ask you guys to see what you think? And how i would go about fixing it?
Many thanks Phil
Running problems
Re: Running problems
take pipe off end of fuel filter and fill the filter WITH PETROL, trying to leave it without an air bubble if possible.
REMOVE AND CLEAN THE SPARKPLUGS. THEY WILL BE FOULED PRETTY BAD BY NOW - REMEMBER TO CLEAN THE OUTSIDE OF THE SPARKPLOUGS AS WELL AS THE CORE-NOSE AND ELECTRODES. (TOOTHBRUSH + WASHING LIQUID TO GET THE THICK GRIME OFF, HOT WATER AND RINSE THEM WELL, BLOW THEM DRY TO GET WATER OUT OF THE CORE... WORKS FOR ME, USE A SMALL SHRED OF COTTON MATERIAL TO "FLOSS" THE CONTACTS, AND ONE LAST BLOW TO GET RID OF ANY DUST THIS PRODUCES)...
CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR AND THE ROTOR ARM, A NAIL FILE IS USEFUL FOR THIS.
CHECK SECURITY OF ALL LOW AND HIGH TENSION LEADS AND SPRAY SOME WD40 AROUND ALL THE CONTACTS (GOOGLE ANYTHING YOU DONT KNOW)
CHANGE THE OIL (SMELL IT, IT WILL BE DILUTED WITH FUEL FROM THE EXTENDED STARTING ATTEMPTS AND WILL FOOK YOUR BEARINGS UP, IT WILL ALSO PROBABLY BE PAST THE FULL MARK - CHANGE THE OIL FILTER TOO)
(THE THICK SMOKE IN THE CARBURETTOR IS A FEATURE OF THIS CARBURETTOR, THAT IS FUEL VAPOUR BEING JETTED IN)
REMOVE AND CLEAN THE SPARKPLUGS. THEY WILL BE FOULED PRETTY BAD BY NOW - REMEMBER TO CLEAN THE OUTSIDE OF THE SPARKPLOUGS AS WELL AS THE CORE-NOSE AND ELECTRODES. (TOOTHBRUSH + WASHING LIQUID TO GET THE THICK GRIME OFF, HOT WATER AND RINSE THEM WELL, BLOW THEM DRY TO GET WATER OUT OF THE CORE... WORKS FOR ME, USE A SMALL SHRED OF COTTON MATERIAL TO "FLOSS" THE CONTACTS, AND ONE LAST BLOW TO GET RID OF ANY DUST THIS PRODUCES)...
CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR AND THE ROTOR ARM, A NAIL FILE IS USEFUL FOR THIS.
CHECK SECURITY OF ALL LOW AND HIGH TENSION LEADS AND SPRAY SOME WD40 AROUND ALL THE CONTACTS (GOOGLE ANYTHING YOU DONT KNOW)
CHANGE THE OIL (SMELL IT, IT WILL BE DILUTED WITH FUEL FROM THE EXTENDED STARTING ATTEMPTS AND WILL FOOK YOUR BEARINGS UP, IT WILL ALSO PROBABLY BE PAST THE FULL MARK - CHANGE THE OIL FILTER TOO)
(THE THICK SMOKE IN THE CARBURETTOR IS A FEATURE OF THIS CARBURETTOR, THAT IS FUEL VAPOUR BEING JETTED IN)
Re: Running problems
Old skool cloth fuel hoses per chance?
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
Re: Running problems
mine has original cloth lined hoses, and theyr'e fine...
thinking about it, the low fuel in the filter could mean there's a slight leak, checking the fuel lines would be a good idea.
thinking about it, the low fuel in the filter could mean there's a slight leak, checking the fuel lines would be a good idea.
Re: Running problems
Be really careful with them, they often seem to go completely if they ever dry out. I've have too many leak on me (every 300 I've ever owned, both front and back of the car) now to leave them, it's one of the first things I change when I get a car. Fuel injection hose is much much better. It normally produces those symptoms too, and if you have a 1.4 it does an awesome job of dripping onto the exhaust 
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
Re: Running problems
Duly noted, I think I will check out my supposed "fine" pipes. always seemed pretty dry... (of fuel) but if they perish like that then I may as well liberate some modern piping at the scrapper before 
they crack.
they crack.Re: Running problems
Hi, cheers for all the replys.
Had a quick look under the car no fuel on the ground and no smell of fuel at all, but will jack it up and have a better look soon.
Got the plugs out they were wet with fuel but are sparking fine, so will clean them off and get them back in. Seems it may be a problem with the carb and over fueling, will see how things go with the plugs cleaned up and will update on here with what happens.
Any more advise appreciated.
Thanks again Phil.
Had a quick look under the car no fuel on the ground and no smell of fuel at all, but will jack it up and have a better look soon.
Got the plugs out they were wet with fuel but are sparking fine, so will clean them off and get them back in. Seems it may be a problem with the carb and over fueling, will see how things go with the plugs cleaned up and will update on here with what happens.
Any more advise appreciated.
Thanks again Phil.
Re: Running problems
Right, got the plugs back in and it started with some difficulty and ran fine when revs kept above 1500 rpm, but once it was warm we tryed to let it idle it cut out and wouldnt start again at all. Got the plugs out again they seemed fine. Did try putting fuel in the filter, but when trying to start it a air bubble returned and still didnt start.
So basically it will only start when cold, wont idle and wont start when hot.
Really stuck with this so any idea whats causing the trouble?
So basically it will only start when cold, wont idle and wont start when hot.
Really stuck with this so any idea whats causing the trouble?
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volvodspec
- Posts: 1921
- Joined: 06 Dec 2008 09:35 pm
- Location: Netherlands.
- Contact:
Re: Running problems
malfunctioning idle solenoid or blocked idle jet/ idle jet channel in the carb.
side-question, if you keep it above 1500rpm with the throttle, how does the engine run? dus it shake very much or anything like that?
side-question, if you keep it above 1500rpm with the throttle, how does the engine run? dus it shake very much or anything like that?
Re: Running problems
volvodspec wrote:malfunctioning idle solenoid or blocked idle jet/ idle jet channel in the carb.
side-question, if you keep it above 1500rpm with the throttle, how does the engine run? dus it shake very much or anything like that?
Thanks for the reply, above 1500 rpm it runs fine as if nothings wrong. So if what you suggested is at fault would that cause all the problems im having?
-
volvodspec
- Posts: 1921
- Joined: 06 Dec 2008 09:35 pm
- Location: Netherlands.
- Contact:
Re: Running problems
well yes, the Cisas 28-34 on the 1.7 (so does de 34-34 cisac found on B200K and the weber 32DIR on 1.4 models) has a bypass channel controlling idle fuel and the progression ports are setup that there's just enough air fed into the fuel to create a good idle mixture.
when the throttle butterflyvalve passes beyond the progression ports, this entire idle circuit becomes out of action; this is slightly above 1300/1400rpm
so in short words; yes this could definatly be the problem.
i suggest you screw the idle solenoid out, pull the jet part off it and check it for dirt. after that, hook the solenoid up to 12v and ground the solenoid; it should pop out and you should hear a "click" noise. after that; take a air compressor with blowgun, apply full throttle and blow with the blowgun into the port
when the throttle butterflyvalve passes beyond the progression ports, this entire idle circuit becomes out of action; this is slightly above 1300/1400rpm
so in short words; yes this could definatly be the problem.
i suggest you screw the idle solenoid out, pull the jet part off it and check it for dirt. after that, hook the solenoid up to 12v and ground the solenoid; it should pop out and you should hear a "click" noise. after that; take a air compressor with blowgun, apply full throttle and blow with the blowgun into the port
Re: Running problems
clogged idle jet - no (or very little) fuel will get to the engine at small throttle openings, when you press the gas the main jet takes over, so it will run fine like that, you need to clean that jet out - I bet one of the fuel lines is perished on the inside and has let a bit of rubber go through the carb, you'll likely find a little black slither stuck in the idle jet.
Re: Running problems
Thanks for the replys, got the idle solenoid seems to be dead, where can i get a new one? Or will i have to find some one whos breaking a running car? Come to think of it foggys breaking a few will have to ask him.