adjusting 360 idle speed

[brad360]

I think most if not all my previously described problems (momentarily losing power when I hardly had my foot down) were caused by the idle speed being too low.

I turned, with my fingers, a white plastic threaded thing about an inch long at the end of the accelerator cable where it meets the engine, pulling the whatever-its-called a bit more so the idle speed increases.

I get the feeling this white part is slowly wiggling it's way back to being fully loosened, how I found it when I first looked at it.

Is it supposed to have a locking nut on it?

Presently waiting for Haynes manual to come via sea mail from UK to Australia. 99p + 5.50 postage...

I saw on ebay UK a car magaine, 1982, had a review of Volvo 360 GLT, might interest someone

[morgan105]

Going by my reference book and providing your carb is the Solex 34/34 Z11, the bypass idle speed screw is located below the idle solenoid and should have a tensioner spring fitted on it to stop it coming loose, there is no locknut.
Sorry, not sure of the colour of the screw as all my carb diagrams are in black & white.
Hope this helps!

[brad360]

It doesn't have a carb, it has fuel injection.

Brad, Melbourne
1986 2 litre 360GLT 138,000km

[pettaw]

you're adjusting the wrong thingy. Put the throttle adjustment back until the throttle cam abuts the stop ie: fully closed.

Gently turn the throttle operating lever, you should here the microswitch click on and off as you move the throttle to and from the fully closed position. If not, post back and I'll try to guide you through adjusting it.

The idle speed screw is the black knob on the bottom left of the throttle body. Screw in to lower and screw out to raise idle speed.

If the idle is too low, there is a chance that the throttle plate is gummed up, because the fumes from the crankcase get recirculated there. To check this, take off the hose that leads from the air mass meter to the throttle body and look at the insides of the throttle body chamber. It should be clean metal or just slightly dirty. If its black and covered, then the throttle body needs taking off and a good clean with some carb cleaner.

Hope that helps.

[brad360]

Thanks for that.

I can hear the micro swith click on and off.

I reversed what i did previously, then undid the black knob quite a bit, maybe 1.5 turns to leave it at about 950rpm from a cold start.

I have not investigated further.

Before the above, yesterday I took it for a good run, maybe 30km each way in country, worked fine except for a minor splutter at start of trip and another when I'd almost got home. I went up a steep several km long hill with 5 onboard at 90km/h in 4th, seemed OK to me.

I had put in a packet of fuel system cleaner into the tank, about 3km after I did that it had the most severe splutter ever, like it was about to run out of fuel.

[jtbo]

What does that black thing do?

In my disassembled throttle body I see 2 big holes one at both sides (air filter and manifold sides) of throttle plate, then there is one hose from engine block that brings oily stuff into these holes. Now it looks that this black knob adjusts flow between these two holes. But what is meaning of this?

I'm going to leave that part out from my car, whole intake is messy because of that.

[pettaw]

no, you need that in, because its part of the Positive crankcase ventilation system, which maintains a slight vacuum in the crankcase. Erm, you just need to keep cleaning every so often. Also, keep the flame trap thingy clear, by removing it and cleaning through with carb cleaner every so often. That helps to lessen the fume draw into the manifold,

[jtbo]

I was going to add filter to hose that comes from flame trap so it would ventilate crankase directly to outside air. I have heard that many guys have done that without a probelm.

[Fuse]

I have a positive crank case ventilation in GLT but I ditched the flame trap and the small calibration vacuum line going in to flame trap. Straight hose going from the oil separator box to the intake side of the turbo. Works fine. Of course I could just ventilate straight to the atmosphere but it is slightly better when there's vacuum in the crank case. Crank case gases and oily mist in the intake system on the other hand isn't good so I'm also building a catch can so the oil mist won't mess up the intake pipes. On GL there's just a short hose which ventilates to atmosphere. I made the catch can to GLT of a tank from the sandblasting pistol. Cost 15 euros when the Greddy oil catch can would have cost more than 100 euros.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/G ... to%202.jpg

Prototype with a cardboard cover. Final one is going to be aluminum like below. I just need to attatch those pipe fittings into it. Then I'll also add some kind of transparent tube on to the side of it so I'll see if it has gathered some oil in it.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/G ... to%203.jpg