GLE injection fuel filters

[Alanovich]

I'm wanting to change the fuel filters on my B200E 360 injection, and of course there are two of them.

Daft question - are both filters the same? If I order 2 of this will that be right?

http://nordicpartsdirect.co.uk/volvo/pr ... p?id=11690

Or is the lower one under the engine bay a different part? Also, will I need to jack the car up to get at the lower filter?

Thanks for any advice.

[MCHUDD]

Hi mate.
They are two different parts.When you do the top one,make shure you tighten everything up
real tight or you will have petrol flying about all over the place.
DO NOT SMOKE.
Cheers Mark.

[Alanovich]

Cool, thanks. How do I source the second filter? Searching the usual suppliers just throws up the top filter.

And how do I find the blasted lower filter - do I need to remove the plastic cowl under the engine bay to get at it?

[Ride_on]

Its before the pump, a smallish low pressure plastic type job you would see in a powerful carb car. The pump sits on the big shield with part of it over the exhaust at the back of the car (has a big U shaped section in it). The filter goes between the tank and the pump. A generic fuel filter should do, anything suitable for 10mm pipe I think(pushon + jubilee fitting). Make sure the pipes and hose clips are in good condition, as you can see mine are pretty knackered, and the pipes are very hard (87 GLT saloon).

[Alanovich]

Thanks, Ride_on. Great help again.

[Alanovich]

Yep, just found the plastic filter, mine's black though. The hoses either side are starting to show signs of deterioration/cracking and I reckon they should be replaced. I suppose I'm going to need to drain the fuel tank to do that, am I?

[Ride_on]

You could get away without draining, its no more of a requirement than changing the filter. Just clamp the tank output pipe say with plastic brake pipe clamp scissors or carefully adjusted vice grips. Take off the pump and filter pipes, draining the fuel in the pipe along the way. Assemble the new pipes and filter and then do the swop at the tank end. You might want to cut along the old tank pipe sideways to make it easier to remove, then block the outlet with your finger and quickly swop over the onto the new pipe. You will lose some fuel, use a rag or towel and obviously make sure no sources of ignition nearby, don't get it in your eyes.

If you really want to drain, a partial short cut is to clamp the pipe that goes between the bottom lobes of the tank, with the car jacked up on its right side as much as possible. That way you only have to drain less that half of the tank.

[Fuse]

I wouldn't use a generic carb filter with paper filter element inside as it's not designed for such applications as the stock setup is.

That stock "filter" beside the pump isn't actually a filter but a very coarse all-plastic chamber type "filter", which also helps with the condensed water in the tank.

The generic carb filter will work, but it will cause way more resistance to the pump as it's not as nearly free flowing as the stock chamber-type part. I had a paper type filter in place when I bought the car and you could hear the pump cavitate occasionally because of that. I ordered the stock filter from Volvo and pump sounded more healthy immediately.

That stock filter isn't available from anywhere else than Volvo.

[trabitom99]

That stock filter isn't available from anywhere else than Volvo.

One of the few parts that Volvo still do for the 300-series, luckily. They're pretty cheap as well, so it's worth while buying two if you plan on keeping the car for a bit!

Cheers

Tom

[Alanovich]

Thanks Tom. Yep, I got one from my local Volvo dealer - but you're right, I should have got two!

I bottled out of changing it myself, and got my local garage to do it when I took it in for the new cambelt. They also did all the drive belts as they were looking a bit iffy too.

So it's running sweet as a nut now!