I would measure, but I don't think my car has completely factory figures after nearly 220 000km on clock
Toe in at rear axle?
Toe in at rear axle?
Green book left me cold, what kind of figures we should have toe in at rear tires? Front is 3 to 5 mm, but is rear 0 or -1 to 2mm as it often is with RWD cars?
I would measure, but I don't think my car has completely factory figures after nearly 220 000km on clock
I would measure, but I don't think my car has completely factory figures after nearly 220 000km on clock
Re: Toe in at rear axle?
Rear toe in should be 0 (+-3mm I think) Most of the time as the cars get older the axle bends and they start getting toe'd in which makes the handling suck, dunno what the cure is though apart from finding an axle with less mileage on it.
Re: Toe in at rear axle?
That is quite horrible, even going from 1mm toe in to 1mm toe out has quite large effect and having such large margin is quite
But that is how it often is, quite horrible.
I input then 0 as it really is not adjustable, unless multilink upgrade then.
Thanks from this bit
But that is how it often is, quite horrible.
I input then 0 as it really is not adjustable, unless multilink upgrade then.
Thanks from this bit
Re: Toe in at rear axle?
Actually you can "adjust" the rear axle but it's quite a nerve wrecking job and requires a lot of patience. You can "adjust" the axle by taking out the wheel hubs and placing shim plates with appropriate size and thickness on each corner. This is very much a trial and error type of procedure and it requires some knowledge of the basic suspension geometry, but it can be done if someone wants to play with it. 
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"There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games." -Ernest Hemingway
Re: Toe in at rear axle?
That is interesting, this I would like to see pictures of as I'm curious how that shimming is actually doneFuse wrote:Actually you can "adjust" the rear axle but it's quite a nerve wrecking job and requires a lot of patience. You can "adjust" the axle by taking out the wheel hubs and placing shim plates with appropriate size and thickness on each corner. This is very much a trial and error type of procedure and it requires some knowledge of the basic suspension geometry, but it can be done if someone wants to play with it.
Sounds at least such process that it is easy to make it much worse than it was at the beginning, that is probably why you call it nerve wrecking, also sizing and placing of shims surely is not a trivial job.
Re: Toe in at rear axle?
Guys I have been down this road, it is a false god. (unless you have banged it)
I thought mine was bent, but have stripped it and measured at about 1.5m radius, it was spot on. Having rethought the mechanics I realised that there is no force trying to bend the axle, the thrust is taken by the springs. It is, if you need, possible to 'adjust' the axle with a sledge hammer when stripped, just make sure you setup a good jig to measure it. I used 2 dolmio jars and 2 long bits of box steel clamped to the flange.
Anyway, as it turns out toe-in is mostly caused by the rear radius arm adjustment. The camber turns into toe-in as the axle rotates... think about it! What we need is new radius arm bushes, and there ain't none! (excuse my bad english).
I thought mine was bent, but have stripped it and measured at about 1.5m radius, it was spot on. Having rethought the mechanics I realised that there is no force trying to bend the axle, the thrust is taken by the springs. It is, if you need, possible to 'adjust' the axle with a sledge hammer when stripped, just make sure you setup a good jig to measure it. I used 2 dolmio jars and 2 long bits of box steel clamped to the flange.
Anyway, as it turns out toe-in is mostly caused by the rear radius arm adjustment. The camber turns into toe-in as the axle rotates... think about it! What we need is new radius arm bushes, and there ain't none! (excuse my bad english).
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: Toe in at rear axle?
I've just picked up a pair of NOS anti tramp bars, so happy to take some measurements. I was hoping to use the pair and add the mounts on the nearside, but didn't realise there was an angle in one of the bush mounts! Still, can work something out!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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classicswede
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Re: Toe in at rear axle?
mirror image - flip it over and it will work.
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/

Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/

Re: Toe in at rear axle?
They arn't
There is a compound angle there that I didn't realise until I had two new ones together!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast


