An idea R.e FAQ Section

Attack2001
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Take a read of this for me :)

Post by Attack2001 » 10 Dec 2011 10:10 pm

Here's my first attempt at an FAQ/Info section :) All comments needed! Good and Bad, if its crap, say so, i've only put a few hours work in so can still be re written :D


*****************************************************************

First things first when it comes to the 300 series, a little history and the evolution from the beginning. The Volvo 340 was originally designed by DAF. During the development process Volvo bought the DAF factory over interests shown from BMW and continued to source engines from Renault for the platform. So it’s a DAF designed, Volvo built, Renault powered car, at least until later on in the story when Volvo fitted their "redblock" engines to what became the 360.

Volvo 300 “Mk1” – The first of the 300 series, you can immediately tell the difference between the mk1’s and the mk2’s and 3’s. They came in 343 and 345 depending on the ‘3’ or ‘5’ doors.
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Mk2” – This is when the car became known as the ‘340’ or ‘360’. You can tell the difference between the mk2 and the mk3 because it has smaller bumpers. There’s a metal strip that runs across the front underneath the headlights, and at the back, the rear window is held in with a rubber seal all the way around the edge. The rear lights are also different, Also if your sad enough “like me” you can tell it’s a mk2 as the heater controls are different.
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Mk3” – This is pretty much the same as the mk2 except the bumpers are bigger, the rear lights are changed, the rear window is ‘glued’ in and the heater controls are different.
Image

There are differences between the 3 marks with regards to running gear I.E mk1’s were only available as auto with the variomatic transmission etc, but this is simply so you can determine which mark you have 


Right, first things first. I’m not going to cover the mk1 series in this FAQ/Info Page as the majority use the 2’s and 3’s, and i know sod all about them haha.

There are two different types of 300. The Volvo 340, and the Volvo 360. The 340 uses the 1.4 and the 1.7 renault engines, and uses a prop shaft in it running gear. The Volvo 360 uses a 2.0l engine designed by Volvo, and the 360’s use a torque tube transmission. Both vesions, the 340 and 360 use a transaxle, with the gearbox in the back with the differential bolted to the back of it.

340 Engine Conversions:

1.4 –
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If you have a 1.4, apart from what has been said, the most economical of the lot if its mated to a 5 speed it is also the slowest. It is possible to drift using the 1.4, if you combine it with a welded diff, and stiffer suspension. You wont however be able to drift using the wider tyres such as 175 and 195’s.
Now when it comes to the 1.4, the engine being designed by Renault, it was also used in the Renault 5 Turbo. If you can find a R5 Turbo turbo engine, then it bolts straight in, no mounts needing to be fabricated. The main problem with this conversion is that the exhaust manifold needs to be changed otherwise the turbo hits the bulkhead. However because the engine is carb’d the wiring is minimal. So if your good a fab work, but hate wiring, this conversion is do able for you  And has already been done here - http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... php?t=7946

However, if you own a 1.4 and want to put something like the 1.8 clio or the 2litre megane engine in, it is still possible, you just have to get hold of the parts listed in the 1700 section, and it all bolts up.

1.7 –
Image
Now the 1.7 is the sought after machine (for some) with regards to the components. The 1.7 has also been described as the most economical if its looked after, and only using the first butterfly (as the 1700 has a twin choke). Now the 1700 can be used for drifting, as it used to be and (from what i’ve heard) works pretty well for the little 80hp single overhead cam. Now the 1700 is the base for what’s known as the “Valvers”. 1.8 clio, 2litre megane engines? Both these conversions require the parts from a 1700.
Another conversion, not as commonly done, is to use a Volvo 440 1.7 turbo engine. The engine is the same as the 1700 in the 340, just with a turbocharger (essentially). Now this, again, bolts straight in. But, like the others, the throttle body is in the wrong place, so either the heater box needs to be removed or the inlet manifold modified to relocate the throttle body. The turbo is also facing the wrong way (inlet towards the back of the car) which isn’t impossible to work with, but needs an imaginative route for the exhaust.
Now to convert from the 1700 to a Clio/Megane engine, you need to swap over the sump, the bell housing, both front engine mounts, you need a 1700 cross member as well (the 1400 one doesn’t work) Plus a few other bits and bobs. It all bolts straight in but once again you run into a slight problem. If you decide to use the original inlet/throttle body then the throttle body hits the heater box. The easiest thing is to simply take out the heater box, but you can simply have the inlet manifold modified to move the throttle body to the other end. If however you’re going to run bike carbs or ITB’s then this isn’t a problem.

Links to conversion pages:
1.8 – http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... 13&t=11630
2.0 – http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... =13&t=8282
440 Turbo – http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... f=2&t=5807



360 Engine Conversions –
Image


Now the Volvo 360 comes with just the 2.0litre engine in carb’d and fuel injected flavours. The base of the engine uses what’s known as the “red block” engine. The red block, simply because its painted red. Now the common conversion with this is to use the turbo engine out of the bigger Volvo 740 and 940 turbo’s. The 2litre turbo engine bolts straight in, although the right hand side engine mount gets close to the turbo, and the engine might rock and hit the mount, so some modify it, some don’t, but it bolts in. The tuning capabilities of the 940 turbo engine is quite substantial, if you find the correct engine it comes with fully forged internals which are good for 300bhp standard.


Transmission Types/Faults

Now the main problem with the 340, is the propshaft, bell housing and gearbox nose. It uses an aluminium prop with splines each end bonded to it using a type of rubber. The problem comes when the rubber ages, and the engine mounts and transaxle mounts age, everything starts to move. Now because the prop shaft doesn’t have any joints in it to allow flexing/bending, when the engine rocks back and forth it puts strain on the prop, and eventually, if you’re giving it some through the back road, some things going to give. Now it usually turns the rubber splines out the end of the prop, but sometimes it bends/twists the prop.
Now, if it doesn’t break the propshaft, the next part will be either the bell housing, but more commonly it’s the nose of the gearbox, which both crack/snap.
Image
Image

The 360 uses what’s known as a ‘Torque Tube’. It’s rather like a long driveshaft that goes from the back of the engine all the way down to the gearbox at the back. And the driveshaft runs in a tube, with bearings inside to support the shaft. Now the main thing about this is that the torque tube is bolted both to the bell housing on the back of the engine, and to front of gearbox, meaning the engine is solidly connected to the gearbox. This set up is far stronger than the propshaft design of the 340, and when it comes to engine conversions like the SR360 from DriftWorks, the torque tube is the desired drivetrain to use as it can handle more power. I’ve read of power capabilities up to and around 300ft/lbs of torque.
Image


Suspension – Lowering/Stiffening

The suspension on the 300 series is pretty basic, and pretty soft for that matter. The front is MacPherson strut style and the rear uses Leaf Springs. The norm to lower the front of the 300, although not advised, is to simply cut the springs down. This is all well and good at achieving the required height, but when it comes to bumps and jumps the standard rate springs aren’t able to support the car and the bump stops end up taking the majority of the pounding. Things start to get really bad when the foot valve in the damper slams into the bottom of the casing causing some serious damage.

The next modification is to re oil the front dampers. This modification is only doable if your dampers don’t have ‘inserts’. To re-oil the front dampers, you drain the fronts of all the oil, and re-fill them with the same amount of gearbox oil. The gearbox oil is thicker than the normal oil, thus it stiffens up the front of the car. Cut springs and gearbox oiled dampers are the norm of the drifters as it’s cheap and easy to do.

Now when it comes to the back, there isn’t much that can be done with the leaf springs, apart from having some new ones made that are stiffer. You can buy lowering blocks to put between the spring and the rear beam to lower the back of the car down. To stiffen the rear of the car, the rear dampers are replaced with the dampers off the front of a landrover 90. This puts the dampers for a 2 tonne car on the back of a 950kg car, which stiffens it up well, but some frown upon it as it makes the backend twitchy - in other words perfect for drifting, not so for rallying and track use though.

Coilovers are available, but are a costly investment. They are available from a few companies but are not available as an off the shelf item so require custom fabrication.

The rear leaf springs can be removed with the addition of a 5 or 6 link kit. This removes the leaf springs and dampers, and replaces them with a 4 trailing arms and either a singular panhard rod (5 link) or a watts linkage style linkage (6 link). The dampers are also converted to rear coilovers, so no more lowering blocks! Once again, not available off the shelf, and require custom fabrication but there are companies that will do it.

*All custom parts are listed at the bottom and where they can be bought from*


Wheels/Tyres

The standard wheels for Volvos are 13” in 4x100 fitment, same as VW, Opel/Vauxhall etc... Some 300’s come with alloys fitted in 14” and 15”. The common swap is to use 13”x7j wheels with a low offset to get the required “dish” and then using smaller tyres and stretching them on to get the tread back in the arch. The most common wheel used is the “minilight” also known as superlights, ml’s, ultralites and loads of other names, but there all the same! The majority of them come in ET-7 which fit under the standard arches using 175/50/13 tyres depending on how low the car is.

Original MK1 343/5 Alloys
Image
Early MK1 343/5 steels (with DAF style hub cap)
Image
Later MK1 343/5 steels
Image
14” ‘Leo’ wheels
Image
13”x7 ET-7 Minilights
Image
Early style Alloys (MK1/2)
Image
Later style Alloys (MK2/3)
Image


Welded Diffs

A common modification with the drift scene is to weld up the differential. The diffs there to allow the inside wheel to travel at a slower speed then the outside wheel while cornering. With the welded diff there locked together, meaning under cornering the travelling the same speed, so at low speeds you get this “ch ch ch ch ch” sound coming from rear where the tyres are skipping. You can still drift on an open diff, but apparently using a welded diff makes the rear end more “predictable” while you’re sideways. Plus it also helps in the initiation of the drift.


Can you use a 360 box in a 340 and vice-versa?

Yes, if it's a 5-speed. But you'll need to swap over two main parts.

Firstly, the front plates should be taken off to be mounted on the front of your new gearbox. This is because the torque tube (360) and prop shaft (340) have completely different arrangements of connecting.

Secondly you'll need to swap the front shafts over. 360 and 340 boxes use different shafts with completely different spline arrangements. All you need to do is remove the front shaft and gear as seen just to the left of this gearbox:

Image

They are held in with a circlip (thanks again jani ). All you need to do is insert that into your new box and bolt your new front plate on. Jobs a goodun!


Steering Wheels

Steering wheels are available for the 300 series; however it’s the boss attaching the wheel to the steering column. A known fix is to use a Peugeot 205 boss available from a lot of companies. The only problem being that the indicator cancellor doesn’t work, but can be easily fixed with a little modification.


Lowering Blocks

Lowering blocks are widely available and extremely easy to fit, using the correct tools and equipment. If you have the blocks already and need the bolts the sizes are below.

Standard Bolt sizes:
- M10x40 x4
- M10x50 x4

Depending on what size blocks you have, add extra length. For 1” add 25mm, for 2” 50mm and for 3” add 75mm. Simples.

Blocks and bolts fitted -
Image

Here’s a picture with standard steels and 3inch lowering blocks:
Image

If you end up with this, you've done it wrong :lol:
Image

Various Bolt Sizes
Leaf spring to axle bolts (lowering blocks) - M10x40 x4 and M10x50 x4
Bottom arm to radius arm and lower ball joint (3 in total, all the same) “setscrews” - M10x35 x1.5 - 8.8 Grade
Image
Image
Bottom arm to suspension cross-member (via bush) – M12x80 x1.75 with a 45mm ‘shank’ – 8.8 Grade


Modification/Parts People

To many there isn’t many parts available by the looks of things on the surface, but in actual fact when you dig there is quite a few places that supply to the 300 community.

Main Parts available (from what i know of, there’s probably loads more!)

Gasket Kits:
- Diff service Kits

Polybushes:
- Lower Arm
- Tie Bar
- Front Engine Mount
- Anti-Roll Bar
- Anti-Rol Bar drop links
- Rear Damper top and bottom
- Leaf Spring

Top Mounts

Lowering blocks:
1, 1.5, 2 and 3 inches available

Lowering Springs

Adjustable Dampers:
Spax Adjustables front and rear

Clutch kits:
340 and 360

Exhausts:
340 and 360

Front Coilovers

Rear Coilovers + 6 Link Rear Suspension

Rollcage

Limited-Slip Differentials

Aftermarket Steering wheels

Companies:
ClassicSwede (DAI) – 300 Specific Performance Parts – Brochure: http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... f=8&t=1804
F1 Moto - 300 Specific Performance Parts
Rally Design – Generic Performance Parts
Ebay (of course) – Everything and anything you can find
MAC – Remanufactured OEM 300 parts (Gaskets) – Brochure: http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... gasket+kit
Robbert Jan – Remanufactured OEM Parts – Brochure:


Rare Parts/Terms

Louvre - http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q114 ... louvre.jpg
Trip counter - http://www.chesh.co.uk/300trip/comp1.jpg
Snow cap (on the bonnet) - http://img65.exs.cx/img65/9430/img0007resize8jn.jpg
GLT Spoiler - http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos- ... 8_6891.jpg
MK2 Spoiler - http://www.volvo300.dk/images/Volvo300m ... %20247.jpg
Saloon Spoiler - http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g63/t ... glt003.jpg
GLT Splitter (front spoiler) - http://www.carlgibbs.com/gallery/d/787-1/DSCF0359.JPG
6 Dial Dash - http://www.carlgibbs.com/gallery/d/757-1/DSCF0347.JPG
Muff - http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/462 ... f194ef.jpg
Duck Bill Spoiler - http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj25 ... C00102.jpg
Valver - http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/a_ ... G_0438.jpg
Rear Reflector Plate - http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/d ... &mode=view
Cavity covers - http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m55 ... C_1825.jpg
http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m55 ... C_1826.jpg

Accessories Brochure (French, but the pictures looks nice haha) - http://www.volvo300mania.com/access89b.htm


***************************************************************


I think i've got a few more bits to come, still deciding on them - any other suggestions would be nice :) Thomas..................
Last edited by Attack2001 on 02 Mar 2012 09:49 pm, edited 19 times in total.
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MCHUDD
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by MCHUDD » 11 Dec 2011 03:56 pm

Hi Thomas.
I see that you have put a lot of time and effort into this piece
Well done for takeing the time.
Cheers Mark.
sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69
PS The mk1 wheels and the 360 Leos are on my cars if you want to use the pics.

Attack2001
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by Attack2001 » 12 Dec 2011 12:52 am

MCHUDD wrote:Hi Thomas.
I see that you have put a lot of time and effort into this piece
Well done for takeing the time.
Cheers Mark.
sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69
PS The mk1 wheels and the 360 Leos are on my cars if you want to use the pics.
Thank you :) I'll hunt the pics down and get em put in :) Is it any good to be used for all the new gezzers asking all the same questions do you think? Thomas....................
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Chris_C
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by Chris_C » 12 Dec 2011 12:41 pm

Tis a really good start in my eyes, I'd suggest there is a period that those with too much time/geekery have a look through for some minor edits but there isn't much needed in a first glance. Great effort mate, people giving back to the scene is what V3M is all about and I reckon this could turn into something really useful.
sm4
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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mac
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by mac » 12 Dec 2011 05:35 pm

Good work - but have I stopped producing my gasket kits then ??

And don't forget Robbert Jan.

Mac.
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.

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Chris_C
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by Chris_C » 12 Dec 2011 06:36 pm

Mac, not everyone reads every thread, so won't be aware of such things. This is *exactly* the bridge I see this FAQ being a starting point towards.

Can I suggest (and Thomas can tell me to get off his project/idea if he wants, I respect it's his *thing*) all suggestions come in the form of a quoted and edited version of the paragraph you wish to change, or a new paragraph to to added, rather than expecting Thomas to deal with all bits? The guy has obviously put lots of effort in here and it's unfair to expect him to run around fixing other peoples ideas into that in my view.
Attack2001 wrote:
Companies:
ClassicSwede (DAI) - 300 specific performance parts
F1 Moto - 300 specific performance parts
Rally Design - Generic performance parts
Robbert Jan (sp?) - Remanufactured OEM 300 parts, see *link to latest brochure*
Mac) - Remanufactured OEM 300 parts, currently Diff gaskets, bolts sets (what else do you want here Mac?)
Ebay (of course)
That sort of thing?
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

MCHUDD
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by MCHUDD » 12 Dec 2011 09:21 pm

Hi Tomas.
The pictures of the mk1 wheels and origional graphics are on the MCHUDD LOUVRED AGAIN.
General Discussion threads about 3/4 way down page two.
The Leos pictures are about 3 /4 way down page 7
and the thread is MCHUDDS 1983 GLS Louvre and spoiler content.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers Mark.
sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69

Attack2001
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by Attack2001 » 12 Dec 2011 09:27 pm

Chris, i like that idea :) If that could be done for all areas, plus more that everyone thinks should be added, we could end up with a nice little guide :)

I've just added another part for lowering blocks with the bolt sizes. I've also re-done the section as you proposed, although i dont know who Robbert is, so couldnt find a link to his 'brochure/guide' bit, would you be able to put the link up for me? And Mac i've added you in there too :D

Thomas..........................
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Speedy88
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by Speedy88 » 12 Dec 2011 09:42 pm

If I can find it, might be worth putting in any bits I put in the "New to 300 series" topic?
'88 340 Williams (Sold)
'85 360 GLS - Drift project (Sold)
'77 Colt Sigma
'96 940 Drift project

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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by Attack2001 » 12 Dec 2011 09:47 pm

MCHUDD wrote:Hi Tomas.
The pictures of the mk1 wheels and origional graphics are on the MCHUDD LOUVRED AGAIN.
General Discussion threads about 3/4 way down page two.
The Leos pictures are about 3 /4 way down page 7
and the thread is MCHUDDS 1983 GLS Louvre and spoiler content.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers Mark.
sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69
Cheers mark, i've added the pictures to the thread. Not sure why, but its much better with your pics, other than it being an immaculate example, i think its the fact its a forum users car :)

Speedy88 wrote:If I can find it, might be worth putting in any bits I put in the "New to 300 series" topic?
All ideas and help welcome/wanted/desperately needed as im running out of ideas, i mean that in as much as, i've got no more ideas :P haha

Thomas......................
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by mac » 13 Dec 2011 12:35 pm

OOoooooops, my humour has got me in trouble again!

Chris - consider me well clipped round the ear!

Thomas - absolutely no criticism intended - It's hard sometimes to remember we don't all live at a keyboard in a cave.

Robbert Jan is a Belgian and a true 300 guru, he remanufactures a range of 300 parts and produces a catalogue
called "Born Again Beauties" (Born, in the Netherlands, being the location of the plant where 300s were built).

He is active on this forum as "Volvomania".

PM him, or PM me for his catalogue (I have a few lying around).

Apologies if any offence given.

Mac.
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.

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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by Chris_C » 13 Dec 2011 02:08 pm

Wasn't a go bud, I knew what you meant ;)

Does VM have a pdf version of his catalogue? I'd suggest we'd be more than happy to host links to it here.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

macplaxton
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by macplaxton » 13 Dec 2011 03:30 pm

Can I start a "There are no Mk1/2/3s, just Model Years" grumble? :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: sm6
72 DAF 44 Estate 78 Volvo 343DL Black BeautyImageImage
82 Volvo 343DL CVTImageImage 88 Volvo 340DL Diesel

Attack2001
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by Attack2001 » 13 Dec 2011 04:24 pm

Yup if we could get a PDF of the brochure that would be good?

And Mac, we knew you was only having a laugh :P

And Mac numero 2 - Shhhhhhh dont confuse me :lol:
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Re: An idea R.e FAQ Section

Post by macplaxton » 13 Dec 2011 04:38 pm

Attack2001 wrote:And Mac numero 2 - Shhhhhhh dont confuse me :lol:
Ok, I keep silently grumbling for now. One for the later hard-core guide though.
72 DAF 44 Estate 78 Volvo 343DL Black BeautyImageImage
82 Volvo 343DL CVTImageImage 88 Volvo 340DL Diesel

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