340 1.7 engine problems

Post by **5lab** » 08 Jun 2005 10:43 pm

i'm not sure about the cps, i've never come across it myself.

my thought is that it might be a carb leak. theres an easy way to find out. what ya do is get a can of something highly flamable (wd40 or a blowtorch, if you've got one handy) and spray it around the bottom/middle of the carb with the engine idling. try not to get it in the top. if the revs rise, it means that air is getting into the carb, which is being sucked into the engine instead of air/fuel mixture. when you spray the wd 40 your getting air/wd40 mixture, which burns a bit, so the revs rise..

Post by **morgan105** » 09 Jun 2005 12:23 am

When the car is warmed up, choke fully off and does idle, does the engine seem to idle smooth in the engine bay or does it seem to shake about a bit rough? If it shakes a bit rough it could well be that the idle speed needs to be increased a bit, if you do adjust the idle then do it while engine is at operating temperature and check to see if the engine movement gets more steady.
The idle revs for your car should be 800 +/- 50rpm. Easy to check if you have a tachometer fitted or use a handheld one if you can.

What you found as a shocker in there being 1 choke flap, this is perfectly normal on this carb and many others.

morgan105

Post by **morgan105** » 09 Jun 2005 01:10 am

Just thought of something to check, do you have a idle cut off valve fitted to your carb (small cylindrical thing located on carb with a wire going to it)? It is possible that the wire has come off of it or no 12v feed in the wire with ignition on, or the valve may want cleaning or it's not working properly.
Check for 12v in the wire with the ignition on, if this is ok then take the valve out and connect the wire back to it, then earth the threaded part on a good earth and have someone turn the key, just so ignition lights come on, watching the little tip when the ignition comes on it should click back in to itself. If this is not working then it will be shutting off the fuel at idle and stalling the car.
These are not that cheap new so try and source a good cheap secondhand one if you can, if they are silly money then the easiest way is to just cut the tip off and smooth the edges with a file. These are fitted to stop engine run-on when you switch off the engine and blocks off the idle jet when the power is switched off.
Cutting the tip off if the valve is knackered will not have any other effect on the engine apart from maybe a slight run-on when switching off the engine, it gets done on quite a few carb rebuilds because it's a lot cheaper then buying a new one and it's the only effect it may give.

morgan105

Post by **volvo 340DL** » 09 Jun 2005 11:43 am

does anybody of you know where i can see volvo 340dl b172 engine pics?

sorry this, i am finnish man (15 years old) so i cant speak wery good english

Post by **volvo 340DL** » 09 Jun 2005 11:43 am

in internet please...

Post by **Tom** » 09 Jun 2005 05:09 pm

15? Sheesh, what's the legal driving age over there??

Post by **morgan105** » 17 Jun 2005 07:55 pm

[quote="Susanne"]When it cuts out - It seems to just die peacefully.[/quote]

Have you checked your fuel inlet filter on the carb? It may be partially blocked and may not be allowing enough fuel in at idle.

morgan105

Post by **volvo 340DL** » 29 Jun 2005 04:14 pm

i need b172 engine pics...

Post by **volvo 340DL** » 29 Jun 2005 04:15 pm

Tom wrote:15? Sheesh, what's the legal driving age over there??

so what?!

Post by **Fuse** » 29 Jun 2005 04:47 pm

Tom wrote:15? Sheesh, what's the legal driving age over there??

It's 18.

Post by **Susanne** » 29 Jun 2005 06:12 pm

Hello guys,

I know it's been a while since you replied to me, but I finally have some news about the little reddish 240. Unfortunately, she's going the great junkyard in the sky.

Before we had a chance to try some of the tips from you all, we took her in to see if she could pass the annual inspection. In short, not unless we were willing to invest "at least" 800 euro for assorted welding of the frame, rear brakes, a leak in the fuel tank inlet, etc, etc. And all that before they even started on the stalling problem. Ummm, no.

Hopefully a neighbour of mine who expressed an interest will want it as a project car, otherwise it's to the scrapheap. (Or I'll just post on the boards advertising "free to a good home... for parts".)

I wish I could at least have been able to post what fixed the stalling, for future reference.

Thank you all very much for the help and patience!

Susanne

Post by **volvo 340DL** » 05 Jul 2005 09:12 am

hey hello! i need b172 engine pics, because my own engine is broken so i want to see what it's look like when it's new!!!

______________________
340pw

Post by **shimon340** » 05 Jul 2005 09:57 pm

Hi

Your car sounds like it is doing exactly as two of my 340s did

First,

If the car stalls as soon as the revs drop to idle ie basically when it needs to idle it just stalls, there are two simple causes for this

First ( had this on a 1987 340 ) check Fuse number 10

This controls the solenoid idle valve. This valve controls a small pilot jet of fuel into the car to maintain idle. One rpm pics up the amount of fuel from this jet becomes insignificant and the car will run even if the solenoid valve isnt working

If the solenoid valve is not working ( blown fuse or the valve itself has died ) then you can start the car with the choke as the extra rpm and fuel enrichment lets the car start. However, as soon as you need a "warm idle" the car stalls

So, check fuse 10

Second, remove the solenoid idle valve. 13mm spanner. It is on the side of the carb and can be spotted by following the only two wires that go to the carb. One is black and is merely an earth and the other goes to the idle valve

To test if the solenoid valve is working, leave the igntion of the car on, ( engine NOT running ) and disconnect and reconnect the single wire that goes to the valve. You should hear the solenoid click on and off. If you dont, check the fuse. If fuse ok but no click then replace valve ( get from breakers as they are expensive

)

Third ( from a 1991 340 )

the idle valve has a very fine jet. My 1991 340 currently had such a rough idle it would stall everytime I can to a stop. The idle valve simply needed a clean. I will try to post some pics soon. Use a fine toothbrush to clean inside the shaft of the valve. If there is dirt here, it causes a rough idle or the car stalls everytime you stop

Further, fourthly, you might have dirty fuel jets in the carb... do you know how to clean these?

You prob want to fit a £2 / 4euro inline fuel filter.

as above, check vacuum hoses also

It is best to start checking the simple things before you go / let someone change ignition components

I REALLY need some photos of the work I did on my car to show you what Im talking about....

keep us posted here about any developments

Shimon

Post by **Susanne** » 11 Jul 2005 06:25 pm

Hi Shimon,

That's super information you posted and I really do appreciate it. But, however... I'm afraid the little Volvo is off to the junkyard after all. Not so much because of the engine problem(s), but because it needs a good bit of undercarriage welding. That in itself costs more than what I can justify to get the car to pass inspection.

I think I'm going to ask here if anyone wants to buy (for a nominal fee) the car for parts, just so that I can be happy with the thought that she's donating to another Volvo's lifespan.

Anyone in the Netherlands interested? LOL

Thanks again for all the great advice!

Susanne, former Volvo 340 owner...