Questions and more questions - The art of being a noob

[Rubenv340]

Hey dudes, some work i may do can be a pain in the ass, even if it's simple...
Since the Volvo is my first car, i almost don't know anything, even the stupid simple things.
I've read Haynes maybe 2 or 3 times, or even more, but i can't understand everything... I try my best lol.

Front door replacement -> Can i pop up the hinge pins with a screwdriver and a hammer? If i remove both of them, then the door will slide of ? Because i see something like an " articulation " between the hinges... will that just slide of or there is kind of a trick?

Rear glass (Rear door, saloon) -> I do need to install that fixed glass that is in the rear door. Tell me if i'm right: I need to remove the rear door window, the black thing, like a division, and slide the fixed glass from the outer to inner side? Is it easy to remove the window?

Door handle won't open door (FL and RR door) -> Why??? Is it something snapped from the handle itself?

Switching door key locks -> How to?

Throttle cable problem (Yeah, it happens to everyone) -> Yesterday, my car started to accelerating like a moron when i started it up, and happend to get the throttle stuck. I managed to avoid that by pushing the pedal up (foot behind it). Do i need new pieces or it is repairable?

Valves noise (tac tac tac) -> Does it only requires a valve clearance tune? I'm waiting for valve cover gasket, then i'll do both things same time.

Antena is fixed always the same position -> I suppose it would shut down when i shut the car electrics right? My car electric instalation is a bit of a mess, damn old owners... Looks like a RC Car with that antena haha.

Installing brake drums -> I'll remove the drums to check how the shoes / springs, etc. is in order to know what to buy. How do i put the drum back in place?


I guess it's " only " this lol. I know, some questions are really obvious, but i don't really know and i don't always have the right tools at hand, but i need to learn about it. I'm a bit of upset today because of the throttle.
Tomorrow will be a full day to work on Volvo, so i want to get the max of things done.

Also checked this: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/506 ... 61d3_o.jpg
will take a closer look.

Cheers

[Evoman]

Hi Ruben, I can answer 2 questions

Yes that window is hard, you need remove the window strut (black thingy) and the main window. To do this you'll have to drill the rivets to remove the strut and also take the main window of its regulator. if i remmber right you have to rotate it 90 degrees to pull it out. Now you can struggle to get the strut out (pull it sideways abit, up and bend it alittle so it clears the top of the door) The glass your trying to replace can be pulled out with its rubber attached. I found it best to put the piece in with rubber already attached (I think )

The drums are simply to install, just put them back on as they came off but make sure you adjust the handbrake so that drum only just spins e.g. wind the HB adjust until you cant get the drum over the pads, then back it off alittle

Dont worry about the questions, thats what this place is for

[Logan360]

I can one Jr that with 3 questions different ones too!

door handles

they aren't exactlm complex in the workings. the bars inside the doors are incredibly fiddly however. my door has two screwdriver sized dents from the inside out where i got just a touch angry whilst tryin to do mine. (Right circumstances = incredibly short temper)

door lock switching.

the haynes has wit i thought to be a detailed section on this

aerial

either the remote wire that gives it power from the stereo has failed somehow and can be cured by using another accessory source, like the black w/red stripe stereo accessory wires or the aerial motor is shot and needs to be replaced.

[Rubenv340]

Thanks for the answers. All the help is welcome.
I gave a try at the rear door, but no success. I have a crushed screw, so i can't remove it.

Tomorrow, i'll have my car headed to my fathers mechanic, i'll ask for front door, rear left window and handles job...

I did put some WD40 in the accelerator connections, screws, etc. in the engine bay and also in the parts of the interior side. I started the car 2 or 3 times and it was running cool, not accelerating like a stupid. Let's see if it keeps good!

I definitly hate doors and everything related.

[bogbasic]

Hello, swapping lock barrels is possible for sure - you just need to tap-out the locking pin and swap the innards over carefully! Brake drums 'should' just go back on unless (a big 'unless') there is wear on the inside of the drum which can create a ridge on the outer rim that makes it almost impossible to push them back on over the brake-shoes. If that happens, then the best thing is to grind off the ridge (friendly workshop may be needed) then the drums should go back on dead-simple. Oh yes, tappet noise. Is it a 1.4 or a 1.7? 1.4 is fairly easy (but time-consuming) to do with spanners and a feeler guage as per Haynes, but the others have shims (I think), which is something I've not tackled. Bests, bogbasic.

[Ride_on]

The front doors- it is difficult to remove the pins, the bottom one needs pulled up with a door hing pin remover. The top can be knocked out with a good paralell punch.

Rear glass, you need to drill out the top rivet otherwise remove the door card and keep removing stuff. New rivet needed for replacement.

Door handles - passenger side failure is unusual, possibly the inner linkage has come off (usually if someone has not bothered to put the clips hack on). Front drivers slide can break, if you can't see it somethings come off. The rear, is the child lock on?

Throttle cable - Sounds like its frayed, You need a new/better one.

Drums, There are only 2 types, 340 and 360. Removal can be difficult, you may need crow bars/screw drivers/hammers even thought they are only held on by the wheels. Putting on is easy once the adjuster is reset.

[Rubenv340]

Thanks everyone.
All the tips are very welcome.

In fact, the door handle is the drivers side, my car is LHD.
The rear one, yes, the child lock is on, some moron enabled it and closed the door lol -.-' but i supposed it should open from the outside, even with the lock on?

The throttle is working, but feels very strange to the foot, i should buy a new one then. Is it difficult to replace? Because it's not a very friendly area to work on.

Tomorrow maybe, I'll see what the mechanic could have done about the door / window / handles, then i'll do the rear braking and valve soon.

It's a 340 1.4.

Cheers people.

[Rubenv340]

I've heard that the 360 drivetrain, differencial, propshaft is much better than 340. Will in any " easy " way, the 360 propshaft and dif fit the 340 rear axle and bellhousing? Is it enough for the B18FT without any reliably problem?
I've found a 360 for breaking in Portugal, i've asked him a price for that parts.

Thanks

[macplaxton]

Will in any " easy " way, the 360 propshaft and dif fit the 340 rear axle and bellhousing?

Easy - No

Expensive and difficult - yes.

[Rubenv340]

How expensive?

[MCHUDD]

Hi mate.
If you have found a breaker, get the dash clocks of it. All 360s had rev counters
Cheers Mark.

[Ride_on]

Not really worth the effort, easier to get the 340 engine+gearbox mounts in good condition to protect the drive shaft. Pleny of people running Renualt engines with 340 propshaft.

It would be easier to convert it to a 360 with B230FT (940 engine), just need to fit the different engine and geabox mounts and transplate the entire 360 drive and B230FT engine.

The gearboxes and diff are more or less the same (340+360), but you need the 360 gearbox front section.

[Rubenv340]

340 propshaft handle 180hp without breaking after 2 accelerations?
I don't want to be replacing props every month.

It will be B18FT. I can handle to get everything from a 1.7 340 also.

[Chris_C]

If everything is in perfect condition, yes, they can.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7L9j67_mEIo
I happily drove that propshaft, with the car doing autotests, autosolos and some drag stuff, but *everything* has to be perfect (engine mounts, gearbox mounts, alignment etc)

With a B18FT you will get a snadge more torque than I have, but not much more at all unless you are running a bigger turbo.

[Rubenv340]

Hi there,

I've done recently valve adjustment, but it still have tappet noise lol. I've adjusted by the sequence, and then reconfirmed twice.
20 for intake, 40 for exhaust, like haynes said.
What is wrong with that?

Also, my air filter box is a shit, it's bent and from the nuts, only 1 can set good, the other 2 are just " there " . A lot of air leaks in that area :\ shit. Whats the best thing? Get a new air box filter? I'd like to change it to a different one.. This is too big, but not every can fit because of the carb shape + lpg mixer (yet no blos).

Thanks