Nimminz' LSD GLT Daily - Part1

[Nimminz]

nah wouldn't bypass factory limiter. Can't imagaine the factory limiter it's self doing any harm

[Nimminz]

Little update,

Picked up a new box and diff from John tonight, 3.82 ratio so same as the one at the mo. Plan is, tomorrow, to strip down the new diff ready to transplant the LSD, yes I'm swapping the crownwheels. After that it's bolt to the gearbox, top up with oil and get the thing on the car. I'll be sure to take some pics.
Also might have some headway on the LH swap but might have a bit off a difference ... we'll wait and see

This is happening tomorrow:



Matte black cups - looks like steelies from a distance keep the theives away and the boy racers surprised
These were some of the other ideas, i would love the 'crash test' look ones but can see the novelty wearing off quickly

[Speedy88]

Crash test will be hard to do well and even then it'll look a bit crap. I actually like yours white but matt black could be a nice change if you want something different for a while. How about satin black though? When close to the car the finish will look a lot nicer than blackboard paint

[Evoman]

Im with speedy, satin black with look the balls! I like the crash ones thoughs, brings back your orange theme. Good luck with the work

[Nimminz]

cheers, well lad your in luck, wilko's was out of matt black so satin black it is

Yeah the crash test would be way too hard to do and masking tape is getting expensive.

Not got far on the gearbox and diff swap, welded and painted a mount for the radius arm though - i welded round the outside of the cups so even if the middle rots the outside's still there



Started trying to get the driveshaft bolts out but thought I'd wait till a bit of penetrating oil was used



bits welded so i coud stop the driveshafts rotating



found the gasket




Also a video of the rev limiter, just set it to 4k to make a vid, sorry it's a bit crap angle-wise but i had hammerite all over my hands lol. Managed flames on the soft cut on WOT wit till i fix the 5mm gap between downpipe and mani.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLMIHgjz ... e=youtu.be

Thanks for looking
Matt

[Speedy88]

Nice!

[Rubenv340]

Lovely.

[theo2468]

Would I be able to put that limiter on my 340 or no?

[theo2468]

Or because its carb is there nt enough electrics? Does it work with renix?

[Edit] just done searching and it looks like you can wire them into the renix!
Sorry for writing all this in your thread nimminz ill start my own now!

[Nimminz]

haha just comented your thread theo, it's pretty much as long as it'snot on coil packs its fine.

Well today I got the driveshafts off, had to chop the head off the bolts, the rest of them are still stuck in the axleshafts but will just use the ones currently on my car. driveshafts had to come off so i could get to the bolt.
Diff's bolted to the box, just got 2 studs to go in. Brand new gasket of course. I'm just fitting the open diff for the moment as i need the car really. LSD will be going in soon though.
I've been looking back at my LH2.4 diagrams recently

Gonna try and get the car back on the road tomorrow, with solid gear linkages and a good diff and box again

[Nimminz]

Well, it snowed.

Got two wheels done in satin black though

Found the diff needs the 360 mounting holes tapping. Anyone know the size, i would check by taking the old one off but am at college for the rest of the week and away at the weekend. Hopefully get it in early next week complete with LSD installed.

[Nimminz]

Hi

So tuesday I started on the car. Removed the exhaust - got a new standard one to go on as neibours were complaining at the noise Then it's been slow progress removing the gearbox and diff which still isn't off, just the 4 torque tube to gearbox bolts left and the pin from the gear selector rod but CBA today. I've had teh diff cover off to check for the suspected chipped CW/P teeth. I have found all seems to be well ... but the O/S diff axleshaft (bit thet the driveshaft bolts onto at the diff side) has maybe 7mm of play in and out, the bolt is tight as far as i can see and the diff it's self doesn't move. I know how a torsen diff works and am still trying to work out why this bit moves in and out. The diff seems to still work perfectly but maybe this was what was causing the noises when i changed the wheel bearing? Also the rear section of the torque tube had gearbox oil in it. Maybe 50ml. Only found out when i took the bungs out to undo the prop coupling bolts. I was pretty sure the input shaft bearings had gone on this box so maybe that's it? I've not checked how far the oil has got, praying it's not on the clutch, I'll check that tomorrow. Still got the diff mount threads to do, they are going either M10x1 or M12 x 1.25 as they are the taps I have, I'll buy some 12.9 bolts too.

I'm still deciding if I'm going to swap the LSD into the new diff case.
If i do - It could work and I'll be very happy
- It might not and I'll be more than unhappy
If i don't - I'll have a working open diff which isn't as good as LSD and be nearly Very happy

I'll try and get more photos tomorrow as all this text is a bit crap without pictures.

[Nimminz]

Right, Decided to keep the LSD in as it's looking all fine apart from the dodgy moving axleshaft but that's only a couple of mil now. Got the old diff and box off, diff rebuilt and bolted to the new box.

Tomorrow i'm hoping to get the gearlinkages sorted then the box and diff can go back on, 10w40 in the box and new 80w90 in the diff, driveshafts in, exhaust and finally the radius arm mount and we should be good to go

I'll try and get some pics but most of the time my hands are way too dirty to be picking up expensive cameras.
here;s a few from when the diff and box came out




g/box oil in TT







Thanks for looking,
Matt

[Nimminz]

Right, yesterday I got the box and diff on. got the 4 torque tube to gearbox bolts in and raised the gearbox up to it's mounts and bolted them in. Today i started on the little jobs like prop camp bolts, gearlinkage into the box, driveshafts, heatsheild and exhaust.

BUT

I came a cross a few problems. Firstly, I had bolted on the prop clamp onto the input shaft of the gearbox, the bolt wasn't tight just in enough not to come out or catch the sides of the torque tube when the gearbox was being fitted. Today I came to fit the bolt at the prop side of the bolt and found i couldn't get it to go in. After inspection with a torch I saw that the machined section of the prop that the bolt is meant to sit in was about 2-3mm to the engine side of the hole in the clamp. WHY? It's an '82 360 5-speed box and an '88 prop. My '83 box fitted fine?
Second problem, the gear linkage arm is squashed between the torque tube and the transmission tunnel / handbrake cable bracket and adjuster. dunno why but it is.

Next chance I have to work on the car is monday the 11th march so will have to manage without it till then, which is why i'm massively annoyed that i didn't manage to get it sorted today. Really do wish I'd never took the original box and diff off back in june to try the LSD, then i'd have had the last 7 month's of happily driving it. Don't really feel like i'm capable of doing things like changing gearboxes etc. I should really have stuck to painting wheels and fitting spoilers like i did with my first car a 206 lol

anyway, any help with why things aren't working would be massively appreciated
Cheers,
Matt

[miniswift]

Hey Matt,

Don't be such a softy!
When you are young and a luck of fund is make you better an adult!
I didn't get where I am easy myself.

Like many of mate told me to keep it simple. K.I.S.S. is what you needed to do.
Keep it simple and stupid!

Look at my Mini project, I made it so complicated. I have been working on more than 10 years but hasn't moved with own power!

You will look back and think, Aye I was young!
Trust me, I'm telling you from my own experience.

Cheers
Atchi