Deox c and Deox gel rust removal test.

[Number 47]

I have bought this product as I read great reviews online. Now to see if it works. This is not a scientific experiment, just a real life trial. I have no feelings either way, no affiliations and do this at your own risk etc..etc..

The product.
I bought a 4kg bag of deox c crystals and a 1kg bottle of deox gel. (I'm not going to do a product description etc as if you are reading this then you have google.) It cost me €75 with next day delivery. I am told it is safe with rubber parts, we will see as a rubber bung is all that's separating my garage floor from a very expensive 80 liter wash.

I am doing the front subframe and cross member so I needed a suitable bath. There is no need for the elaborate plumbing you see, this is a deep water culture garden from my aquaponics unit. I gave it a quick scrub to remove the fish waste.



I poured in the 4kg bag of powder, (actually 4.2kg, thanks guys!) and poured roughly 80l of hot water. I estimate about 55 celcius. It dissolved with a bit of agitation and I dropped in my parts. The clear water instantly turned a greenish hue and started to bubble.



It didn't quite cover the subframe so I decided 'there is no replacement for displacement' and eureeka! (Hat tip to Archimedes)



These parts have been partially sandblasted so are not heavily rusted. The worm still resides though.




For more pics please visit my rebuild thread.

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=15216&start=90

Now onto the gel. I plan to use this on the rusty bits under the car that I can't dip. This brake disc has been sitting in a leak from my brine tank, not healthy.



Gave it a quick dust with a wire brush on my drill as recommended, (about 30 seconds) Did the complete thing so as not to cheat.



Brushed on 2 brush loads of gel, (it should be thicker but this is just a quick experiment and I didn't want to contaminate contents of the bottle with the brush)



Popped it in a plastic zip lock to stop the gel from drying out and we will see how it gets on later.



Fingers crossed.

[thododd]

Nice little documentation/write up/product review thing. I use 'deoxit contact cleaner' at work quite regularly (its a very small bottle for contact pins on pcb board chips) and its fantastic stuff. Since we started using it weve had a lot less failures on the hire fleet machines. Computers on machines designed to be used in very wet conditions are an utter ball ache!!!

A big version for rusty car parts sounds like my kind of product

[Number 47]

Nice little documentation/write up/product review thing. I use 'deoxit contact cleaner' at work quite regularly (its a very small bottle for contact pins on pcb board chips) and its fantastic stuff. Since we started using it weve had a lot less failures on the hire fleet machines. Computers on machines designed to be used in very wet conditions are an utter ball ache!!!

A big version for rusty car parts sounds like my kind of product

Could do with some of that right now, behold the other side of my garage!



Busy repairing this behemoth while I wait for the deox gel. Should be about ready now though for the first agitation.

[Number 47]

So far not much action but just realised I forgot to wash the disc to remove grease. Gave the whole disc a quick going over with a normal wire brush then hosed it off.





Nothing really to write home about here, this is after around 2 hours, granted, I didn't degrease but I was expecting a bit more difference. Can see the difference in the mounting points but it does say on the bottle that a few applications may be required. (About 1 hour a time) So, I dried it off, poured on a bit more, pushed it around with the brush and popped it back in the bag. Put it in the house this time to see if the temperature will speed it up. It's cold in the garage.

Bath is still bubbling away, might go and have a go at a bit with the wire brush, see what happens.

[Number 47]

Well my flabber is well and truly ghasted!



I rubbed it with my finger and it was clean metal! Hosed it, wiped it with a rag! 2 hours in the bath. Off to dance a jig!

[Number 47]

Bit of progress on the disc. Not as much as expected so going to give it a bit more and leave it overnight.

[Chris_C]

That tie bar mount is impressive!

[Number 47]

Quick update before work. The brake disc is showing improvement so I'm going to give it one last try. I'm thinking the instructions for 1 hour are to be ignored as the gel was black this morning. Much more rust removed but still not as much as expected. Granted, this is bad rust.





The bath is amazing though, I just wiped this with a rag. This is the other mount, not the one from the picture before. It was also quite bad around the cup.




It has even cleaned in behind the rim where I couldn't get the rag. The paint is still on it and I have not been using gloves handling this stuff. When finished you just pour it down the drain. It is completely biodegradable. Showing no signs of damaging rubber, plastic, skin or clothes. Very impressed with this soaking technique.

[Ride_on]

Is this similar to hammetite rust dip?

It works generally, and only attacks rust, but like any dip technique it is limited on heavy rust and seam rust and as you noticed needs degreased before dipping.

The main problem is that it is expensive as the chemicals don't last long. The best solution I found for heavy rust is electrolysis but is limited to line of sight.

At the end of the day you pretty much need all techniques and depaneling, the professional dippers are probably the best but none available here AFAIK.

[Number 47]

Tried the hammerite dip before this. Didn't do half as much as this deox stuff. It lossened it but this stuff has it falling off. I was hours on the wire wheel on my struts after 48 hours in the hammerite. I can brush the rust off these with my finger after 24 hours. Right enough, I didn't try the hammerite with hot water. This deox is supposedly reusable until it turns black. We will see, I am going to drop the rear suspension as soon as I get done with the front. I will be popping it in this bath. I dropped one of my old droplinks in last night before I went to bed. the bath was cold then. Here is the before pic.



Will give it a while and pull it out. See how it performs cold.

There is a layer of detritus on the bottom of the bath now and it has stopped bubbling so much. I just pulled out the arm mount and tried cleaning the seam behind the mount. With an old soft toothbrush it just washed out and rinsed off. Tiniest contact moves it, you can push the rust off just wiping it with a finger.

[Number 47]

As promised, pics of drop link. This was added cold. About 30 hours in the bath and it certainly looks better. I wiped the rust off with a rag.



Have inspected my other bits. There were a few bits of stubborn flakes around the inside ends of the crossmember and a little patch on the subframe. Gave it a bit of a poke with a screwdriver and it fell away, the rest of the metal is rust free, with no scrubbing etc. It has just fallen off. I did agitate around the radial arm cups with a toothbrush for about a minute each last night.

It is amazing pulling a piece out, you can see the cloud of rust fall away to the bottom. The paint is softened so a quick wipe takes the loose stuff away. The level has dropped about a cm, not sure if this is evaporation or what.



Will have more pics later.

[Number 47]

I have taken out one of the radial arm mounts for paint. Gave it a quick once over with a wire brush to remove the last of the paint. There was no rust evident. Rinsed in water and dried off.

[Ride_on]

I was going by the green tinge and the fact it goes black when its done. Sounds the same, just maybe a difference in dilution, the chemicals are used at a higher rate than acid, dilution allows easier dipping but slows the process.

BTW a fish tank heater is good for raising the temp.

[Number 47]

I was going by the green tinge and the fact it goes black when its done. Sounds the same, just maybe a difference in dilution, the chemicals are used at a higher rate than acid, dilution allows easier dipping but slows the process.

BTW a fish tank heater is good for raising the temp.

I've been looking for my tank heater, can't find it as yet. Hoping to raise the temp a bit before the leaf springs go in. So far I am well impressed with the deox c. I am using it at the lowest recommended dilution just to get enough solution for coverage. About 5%, it can be used up to 20%. I will be getting some more for further testing and will keep updating this thread. I plan to try smaller items in higher concentrations to see what it can do.

[Number 47]

OK, time to see how the old solution works cold. It has been sitting in the bath for a few weeks now and has suffered with a scum of spray paint on the surface. I have done nothing to it since I finished the last batch. Now for the rear suspension. Starting tonight with the brake drums.

The bath looks like this.



Stuff on the surface is overspray from cold zinc spray paint.

Drums going in.



Will keep this posted. All the rear suspension will be going in here.