1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

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Twitch6284
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1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by Twitch6284 » 30 Jan 2016 03:49 pm

As above, ideally need it by monday, but know thats not going to happen..

What have you got?

MCHUDD
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by MCHUDD » 31 Jan 2016 12:07 pm

Hi mate.
Contact mac. I think he is refurbishing them.
Cheers Mark.
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mac
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by mac » 31 Jan 2016 08:01 pm

You need to be a little more specific - since inception the 1.4lt has been fitted with a number of Weber 32DIR variants and at least one Solex.

Are you talking about a 32DIR type 48, 57, 74, 75, 83, 85, 93, 94, 104, 105, 109, 110 or Solex 32SE1A - would need VIN.

What is actually wrong with the carb you have? - it can probably be recovered.

Mac
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.

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Twitch6284
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by Twitch6284 » 31 Jan 2016 11:17 pm

mac wrote:You need to be a little more specific - since inception the 1.4lt has been fitted with a number of Weber 32DIR variants and at least one Solex.

Are you talking about a 32DIR type 48, 57, 74, 75, 83, 85, 93, 94, 104, 105, 109, 110 or Solex 32SE1A - would need VIN.

What is actually wrong with the carb you have? - it can probably be recovered.

Mac

Sadly I am afraid I cant help you there. Its an August '82 car if that helps.
All I know is its a twinchoke weber downdraft, but I would imagine that probably describes all of them...

Well, it doesnt work. Took it off today, cleaned it and put it back on. Had someone that knows volvos far better than I fiddle with it for ages, and it runs much better now, but still has a fuelling problem. but like I say, I dont know enough about it. Probably just needs a rebuild and would be fine..

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mac
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by mac » 01 Feb 2016 05:32 pm

An August 82 car should be fitted with a Weber 32DIR type 93-100 which as you say is a twin choke downdraft carb.

Basically a good carburettor the DIR nevertheless suffers a number of issues that usually can be traced to excess air entering the manifold (unmetered) below the throttle plates or contamination through dirty fuel.

The air leaks can be through the mounting gaskets and insulating blocks or through a fault with the engine breathing or vacuum supply systems (especially on the CVT versions).
Check the vacuum pipe to the brake servo (can degrade and split at the inlet manifold) and the main vac supply onto the preheated plate between the carb and manifold.
Contamination issues can only really be address by dismantling.

Other problems such as loosening of the carb top casting and/or air cleaner housing should have been addressed as you have had the car looked at.

If you could describe, in detail, the current symptoms I may be able to narrow down the problem areas to look at - simply replacing the carb with another "unknown" might leave you with worse problems and while I would be most happy to sell you an exchange refurbished unit - that would be an expensive option.
It is often far better (and cheaper) to persevere with what you have - a proper clean, and correct adjustments can often work wonders.

Mac.
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.

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Twitch6284
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by Twitch6284 » 02 Feb 2016 02:37 am

Thank you very much for the info Mac :)

I think the main problem is fuel contamination. I changed the fuel filter today, as the stuff in it was brown... And I ran it for about 20 seconds just to make sure it was all attached properly, and the fuel was clear but found weird black bits in it... And then looked at it after driving it this evening and the fuel looked brown again... Which seems odd to me. I think I should drain my tank and get it cleaned...

When I first got it I did tighten up the carb bolts, as they were far too loose, result of which was very positive. And the other day we removed the carb, gave a good go over with some carb cleaner and put sealant on the different gaskets underneath the carb (as an attempt at a temporary fix), and it worked amazingly for about 20 minutes. Then proceeded to spend a good few hours just tinkering with the screws, which made it wonderful for 5 minutes, then back to its old ways :( Its like something is blocking something, then every so often its finding itself clear again, to then get re-clogged.. (fuel jets perhaps?)

The vacuum pipe that goes to the baseplate was attached to a questionable looking T-piece from the oil breather hose... Is this where it is meant to be? As when we replaced the really old bit of pipe with a bit of new the extra tension snapped said brittle T-piece, so we blanked it off (again, temporary fix!). But that got us from the car not running at all, would barely even start, to running the best it ever has.. Which leads me to believe that pipe should really be going somewhere other than the oil breather?

Currently, anything more than half throttle (ish) makes it bounce around and try to cut out. Full throttle (anything after that 'step' bit in the pedal travel), it makes a god awful noise, (say, if you've chucked schwarzenegger, a bear and a few bricks in a tumble dryer, I think you might be close), and if anything less power instead of more, for the few seconds before the inevitable bangs, pops, and general backfires that have blown physical holes in my backbox, and then death. Sometimes it runs fine for a little while, but when I need to move the throttle (either open or close it, even just the slightest bit) for something like a hill or traffic, it has an almighty bitchfit. I think in all honesty the carb just needs a proper rebuild and it would be lovely, but what do I know... (very little, which is why I am here!! lol). All I know is it very much depresses me that my car doesnt work. And I want it to work. And I want to be the one to take it apart and tinker and fix it, as there is no better way to spend my days! But I just dont have the time to do it :(

How much would I be looking at for an exchange good unit?? As I am looking to just replace the carb, as I need the car for work on friday, which will be 8 hours of stop/start driving... :(

derskine
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by derskine » 02 Feb 2016 02:07 pm

It sounds like you just have blocked jets.
I'm not massively familiar with the DIR but is there a small mesh filter just before the float needle?

Really you don't need a new carb, just strip it down and blow all the jets out with an air line.

Once rebuilt fit a new fuel filter if you haven't already.
1984 Volvo 360 GLE Saloon
1987 Volvo 340 1.7GL

Additionally -

1966 Ford MK1 Cortina
1971 Hillman Imp
1984 Renault 18 GTD

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mac
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by mac » 02 Feb 2016 02:09 pm

Your symptoms certainly point to very weak combustion - either weak mixture (too much air or too little fuel) or just possibly a weak ignition spark).

A poor spark will give similar symptoms especially the "breakdown" under load (above half throttle) - make sure the cap rotor, leads and plugs are all good and that your firing order is correct. (The 1.7 engine suffers from rotor arm/carbon brush failure and give symptoms very close to yours).

However on the balance of probabilities I think your issues are fuel related - you speak of brown, contaminated fuel visible in the filter and suggest that "work" on the carb gives short term improvement.

Fuel should not contain "black bits" - this suggests that either you have purchased "dirty" petrol or the inner surface of your tank is degrading. Regardless whatever the source it seems likely that such bits have reached the carb. Have you removed the top casting and checked the float chamber? - if not it is quite possible that the main jets are partially obstructed or that the needle valve is sticking (a low float level would fit your symptoms). You really need to go further than just an external clean.

You also have an issue with the crankcase scavenge system. You mention the broken T piece (very common).
The T piece fits in the rocker cover with the "straight" pipe connecting to the air cleaner - the T connects to the pipe on the alloy plate below the carb to provide a vacuum scavenge for the crankcase ventilation. BUT, big but, this pipe MUST contain a restrictor to prevent excess unmetered air entering the inlet manifold. The restrictor is a solid plastic rod about 15mm long pushed into the pipe (to block it) but with a 1.5mm hole drilled through it.

If you leave the restrictor out you will have poor running and it will be impossible to a just the carb correctly. If you block the pipe (or seal the T piece) wou will have no C/C breathing and over time you'll suffer multiple oil seal failures (caused by excessive crankcase pressure).

You ask about an exchange carb - such is possible but time is not on your side (I am not a business, just an enthusiast) I don't "stock" carburettors - I refurbish them "to order" on an exchange basis - preferably rebuilding the "customers" own unit. Usually within a three week period, costs vary depending upon what work is needed and a basic strip, clean and replacement of all gaskets and diaphragms would usually be around the £80.00 mark. Adding new base insulators another £20 and the "full works" to include soda blasting, ultrasonic cleaning, casting surface coating, all wearing parts changed including shaft seals etc. more again. It also may be necessary to repair threads (helicoil inserts). The cost soon mounts up.

If time is of the essence it is probably better to "find a local" - where are you located??

Best regards - Mac.
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.

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Twitch6284
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by Twitch6284 » 03 Feb 2016 01:06 pm

Thank you very much for the responses!! And your in depth knowledge is incredibly appreciated Mac.

I have ordered a new carb from Classic Swede now, will be here tomorrow. He says he took it off a fully functional car yesterday so he knows it all works for me, so that is greatly appreciated. And I will test my spark today, see how that is looking. All the distributor stuff looks new, and I replaced the spark plugs last week, so I think the only place it could be falling down is the coil if there is a problem with the spark. Like you say though, I am pretty certain it is fuel related.

the fuel in my new fuel filter is still clear, it must have just been the yellow street light that made it look brown again the other night. I havent taken anything actually apart on the carb, as I did not have the seals to rebuild it. Will take the top off the float chamber today and make sure nothing drastically bad is in there, just so I know that nothing is coming through the filter that shouldnt be.. I dont want the new carb to just fill up with shit again if that is the problem.

Well that could definitely be one of the symptoms of the bad running, as that pipe from the breather T-piece definitely has no restrictor in it... I will have to make one of those somehow, and the lack thereof might explain why the engine is leaking oil from the front crankshaft oil seal, and the fuel pump seal pretty badly.. More things to be addressed soon..

Thank you for the info Mac :) hopefully this carb, as well as sorting out that T-piece and making a restrictor for that vac pipe will solve the problem, at least until I can find all the bits I need to get the 1.7 in....

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mac
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by mac » 03 Feb 2016 01:53 pm

Hi again,

If Dai has sent you a carb he knows was working fine it should eliminate direct carb related issues (assuming no contamination is feeding through from the tank.

An Aug.82 car has conventional coil/breaker points ignition so the coil itself is a possible culprit as is the "condenser".

Obviously check the basics plugs, points, dwell angle etc. replace or repair the breather "T" and introduce the missing restrictor (even a short piece of wood dowel with a 1.5mm hole through it would do).

When adjusting the carb set the idle CO% screw to a base point of two and a half turns out from fully in. Warm the car up and set the idle to about 500rpm. Using the idle speed screw. Turn the CO% screw in and out to achieve fastest! smoothest idle you can - then use the idle speed screw to re-adjust the idle to about 850rpm.

One further possibility - look for any leakage between the manifold and the cylinder head - rare but not completely unknown.

Mac.
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.

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Twitch6284
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by Twitch6284 » 03 Feb 2016 06:26 pm

Thanks dude, I am hoping the carb will sort it.

Will definitely replace the restrictor and sort the T piece.

Sadly my car doesnt have a rev counter so I will just have to wing it as far as that goes, or perhaps get someone else to do that bit..

Will check around where the manifold meets, thanks again!

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Twitch6284
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by Twitch6284 » 04 Feb 2016 05:40 pm

new carb has NOT sorted it.

It runs much better, and is actually drivable, but the problem hasnt gone. And it seems the more I drive it the worse it gets.
(covered about 5 miles so far.)

The only stop I have left is the coil... Anyone have any suggestions??

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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by bogbasic » 04 Feb 2016 11:34 pm

Hello

when you swapped the carb, did you swap the idle solenoid?

Bad coils and condensors can cause problems when they get hot, but that is the sort of thing that you would expect with a much older car. Coil trouble with 340's is quite rare, but I may be wrong. Others will know.

Urgent edit: seems like the 340 had condensors up to the mid-80's so maybe that's yer problemmo. Condensor is more likely than coil. The golden rule of electronics is that if you haven't got a clue what's wrong with it, replace all the condensors and that should fix it - they're about the only thing that can go wrong.

ttfn

Jon.C.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!

derskine
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by derskine » 05 Feb 2016 12:22 pm

Jon raises an interesting point about condensers, typically the ones you can buy these days are Chinese rubbish and don't last very long, it may be that someone has fitted one of these.
As I said on Facebook, check the points gap and dwell angle too, it could be your distributor is worn, it's critical that it's not worn on a points system.
Perhaps converting to a later distributor + Renix (if possible) is the best solution as there are very few issues with this system.
1984 Volvo 360 GLE Saloon
1987 Volvo 340 1.7GL

Additionally -

1966 Ford MK1 Cortina
1971 Hillman Imp
1984 Renault 18 GTD

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bogbasic
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Re: 1.4 carb needed ASAP!! Anyone help?

Post by bogbasic » 05 Feb 2016 03:11 pm

Derskine is ahead of his time - I've heard similar things said in lectures where most of the audience is from that very part of the world. I am very pro-oriental, as you guessed. Anyhow, with a circuit board, the biggest capacitors and any that look as though they are getting hot, are the ones to replace first, unless you have a grant!! Gosh I thought condensors were confined to real oldies (which will probably offend the early-model fans, sorry) and, of course, with cars, there is only one to worry about and it unscrews, which is easier than trying to un-solder them!!
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!

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