wheel bolts for 340 with alloys????

Post by **simon88** » 20 Jul 2005 07:33 pm

hi,im looking for a set of wheel bolts to fit 480 14 inch alloys on my 340.
got the wheels but no bolts

Post by **petefarrell360** » 20 Jul 2005 09:01 pm

The best place to look is in a scrapyard for a 360 that had alloys as standard, for example the GLT. I know Chris was looking for some for a long time, and had slowly built up a collection, however many were damaged, then luckily a whole set came up on Ebay iirc!
Pete

Post by **simon88** » 20 Jul 2005 09:22 pm

thanks for that pete.do you know if 440 ones fit?

Post by **petefarrell360** » 20 Jul 2005 10:01 pm

Hi, no problem. I honestly couldn't tell you if 400 one's fit or not. I seem to think 400's have a bolt, where as the 300's are an actual wheel nut, could be wrong, 400's aren't my speciality! However, I've just been checking and my initial thought appears to be wrong, the 400's use wheel nuts afaik.
Pete

Post by **340GLT** » 20 Jul 2005 11:14 pm

Nope 400's use bolts not nuts, so they are know good, you were right the first time pete, tyhe best place to look is a scrappy for 360's!!!
Cheers Adam

Post by **Chris_C** » 21 Jul 2005 02:09 pm

Right! I've been waiting for someone to ask this... only I've forgotten some of the most important bits (but I can soon find out)

300 alloy wheel nuts are a thread that means they are quite common on other things (this is the bit I've forgotton, but I'm sure Daewoos were)

400 wheel bolts are the same thread (so a 300 nut will go on a 400 bolt, useful for making sure the Daewoo ones you get from a scrappy will fit

) I have a spare set of 400 bolts if they are useful to anyone.

The problem with alloy nuts is that the contain a threaded bit inside them (harder metal, so the thread doesn't strip) but when they get put on with an air wrench, the inside bit twists and knackers the nut. This is why some many I got are screwed. Having said that, atm I do have 2 sets, but I can't say I'll give you one cos I think I might have used it elsewhere.

I'll do a search on MSN history, cos I know I told Steve which ones fit, and it was loads... if you go to a scrappy try the 400 bolt trick, and check Daewoo and Nissan. I'll try and follow up tonight.

Or Volvo still sell them for £3.50ish each. I also have a spare set of lockings going, cos I bought them too make up numbers

Post by **340GLT** » 21 Jul 2005 11:15 pm

Pretty sure Impreza ones are the same as my locking wheel bolts were made for scoobs!!!! Don't quote me on that tho!!!

Cheers Adam

Post by **Chris_C** » 21 Jul 2005 11:53 pm

Right... usual disclaimer applies.... if I'm wrong, it's not my fault, etc, etc, etc

The list I had when I was looking for my nuts (ooo matron) was:

Ford - Maverick
Subaru - Legacy, Impreza and Justy
Suzuki - Vitara, Swift, Jeep and Alto
Talbot (Chrysler) Avenger, Sunbeam.
Datsun.
Honda Civic, Accord (up to 1982).
Dacia Denem.
Daewoo All models

These were of a pack of wheel nuts that also said for 340's and 360's

Safest bet I guess is to try the 400 bolt trick, on one of your existing nuts (just incase they changed bolts at some point

) then take the bolt on a scrappy hunt. As I said, they are knackered by air guns, so feel round them, the knackered ones will feel 'rounded' in a vertical way....

Side on:

_______
| |T | |
/ |H | \
/ |R | \
\ |E | /
\ |A | /
| |D | |

Any one takes the mick out of my supreme drawing skills.... I'll.. I'll sulk for a bit

Post by **Chris_C** » 21 Jul 2005 11:56 pm

Ok, so being HTML, it doesn't show double up whitespace, but imagine the / and \ line up, and form a curve down the side..... still no mickey taking required

Post by **340GLT** » 21 Jul 2005 11:56 pm

The genuine Volvo ones werent knackered from air guns, they were a steel nut with an alloy cover thing, to stop them from rusting! And When water got between the alloy and steel the nuts swell up causing them to be un removable if left too long!!!
Cheers Adam

Post by **Chris_C** » 22 Jul 2005 12:03 am

Thats the problem though mate, if too much torque is put on them, the steel nut turns inside the weak alloy cover

and a socket never goes over it again.

Post by **5lab** » 22 Jul 2005 09:31 am

there are ways of getting them off if you need to. get a big hammer and smack the top of the nut down a bit. turn the wheel 180deg and do the same to the other side. then slide a spanner on and turn

Post by **340GLT** » 23 Jul 2005 11:12 am

But Hugh, most of the alloys had the nuts in a bored out hole, so they are like countersunk?

Cheers Adam

Post by **pettaw** » 23 Jul 2005 11:21 am

I had exactly the trouble Adam described. The ** things corrode and swell up so you can't get the socket on. The only way to get them off was a V.V large hammer to hammer the socket on and then another large hammering to get them off again.

I bought new steel nuts because I don't care how they look if they come on and off properly.

Post by **Chris_C** » 23 Jul 2005 02:23 pm

It's not how they look though Andy, it's if the steel buggers teh alloy... but then it's got steel hubs, so how does that work?