Fuel Hose Specs - Modern Fuels

[TasMan]

Thought I would start a new thread on the back of the injection pre-filter disucssions of late.
I am looking to replace the hoses around the injection pump and engine bay on my 360.
Seems there are a few options (as usual) and I thought I would highlight a couple that I am thinking about.
I have narrowed down to 'Cohline' hose which comes in two varieties and seems to be high quality.

2192 NBR Hose https://www.cohpro.com/low-pressure-hos ... -2192.html
2240 FKM Hose https://www.cohpro.com/low-pressure-hos ... -2240.html

With Ethanol being a greater issue to existing hoses it seems sensible to replace hoses as part of preventative measures.
I'm not sure on the original spec of the fuel hoses in our cars but I assume Ethanol was not particulalry considered 30+ years ago and replacement/inspection should be on the agenda.

NBR seems a good option, resistant to super unleaded / E10 fuels
FKM appears to be the ultimate option for 100% ethanol resistance with the Viton style liner

Dare I suggest that both are likely to be superior to original hoses ?
The cost difference is notable for FKM...... 2/3 times the price for FKM compared to NBR.

I am swayed towards 2192 NBR given it is rated for E10 and a fraction of the cost of 2240 FKM, albeit it may not be just as good as FKM.

Has anyone else considered the subject of fuel hose specs
Regards Dave

[bogbasic]

Not my field, but there was someone who knew lots about fuel hoses at the last meet-up in Beaulieu. I didn't get his name/alias, sorry, but I can PM foggy. It might have been maxplacton who hasn't been here for quite a while....

[volvomania]

Both will do however the NBR will wear faster than the other one.

[TasMan]

Thanks for the feedback.
I ordered NBR yesterday, must be better than the original hoses which still 'appear' ok but its time to get them changed.
Certainly something to keep an eye on.
Cheers Dave

[TasMan]

Bit of an update.....
I'm half way through replacing the fuel pump and pre-filter and associated hoses.
Not a great job draining 30+ litres of fuel safely...!
I will report back when complete, had some really useful info from foggy on filter options and wiring adaption to the new pump, much appreciated.

I was going to move on to the feed and return lines in the engine bay but on close inspection I didn't realise the plastic lines aren't secured to the bulkhead. There is very little slack in the lines and there appears to be a risk the hoses will disappear down the hole in the chassis before I can get the new hose on. Also, the force needed to push the new hose on will be tricky to get.

Any tips on replacing these hoses while avoiding the plastic lines disappearing!?
Thanks

[bogbasic]

Hello, can you get a piece of wire or string to go right through each pipe, cable TV style? Or, fix some string on the ends firmly. Cheers, Jon.C.

[TasMan]

Thanks Jon, I thought about string/tape combo but decided just to leave well alone at the moment.
The hoses are in decent condition albeit original, so I will save that joy for another day.
Got the pump install finished today, seems to be working well with the new filter arrangement. Will see if she fires up tomorrow !

[bogbasic]

Hello again, mine are still originals. Ta jc

[SteveP]

Thanks Jon, I thought about string/tape combo but decided just to leave well alone at the moment.
The hoses are in decent condition albeit original, so I will save that joy for another day.
Got the pump install finished today, seems to be working well with the new filter arrangement. Will see if she fires up tomorrow !

If you've taken any pics along the way it would make a good write up, a job I'd like to do in the future on my GLT and I'm not at all familiar with the injection pipe routing

[TasMan]

Hi Steve, Yes I will try and write something up as a bit of a guide, took a load of pics. All credit to Foggy who provided a real top tip on a pre-filter replacement which has worked out well. I will probably do a thread on it when I get my pics uploaded to Flickr, maybe be a week or two but will let you know.
However....maybe you shouldn't follow my advice as the sod still isn't starting...
I posted this on FB but copied below.... the pump staying on after ignition is off seems odd.
The joys of the 300 !! Hopefully something simple, unlike any of the wiring diagrams I have lol !!
Dave

Seeking thoughts on a starting problem with my 360...
Long story short, car wouldn’t start and after a few checks found the fuel pump not working after bridging the terminals as described in Haynes.
Original pump, so I have fitted a new pump and replaced various hoses and both the filters.
Pump now runs when the relay is bridged and plenty of fuel moving through the pre-filter.
Replaced relay and tried to start, turning over fine but not even a cough. Pump doesn’t appear to be running when turning over.
Changed the relay for a spare but no change.
I bridged the terminals again to check the pump, turned ignition on, pump buzzing away fine.
Now, oddly, when I turn the ignition off the pump keeps running? The pump only stops when I pull the bridge wire, it also restarts when I replace the wire with the ignition off...
When I first bridge the terminals it doesn’t run until I turn the ignition on, so why does it keep running with ignition off ?
Fuel pump fuse is fine, my next check is the crank sensor which was renewed, but I am wondering if the ECU could be faulty ?
Has anyone had a similar problem....?

[bogbasic]

Sorry, only just saw your questions.

Is it deffo the right type of relay i.e. normally on as opposed to normally off, etc. I have no idea what type it should be but I got a couple of new relays from a local shop that were physically identical to the ones on the car, but they don't work and this is because they are the wrong type. From the little diagram printed on the side you can tell if its a normally on or off.

The only other thing I can comment on is that I had a problem in that the engine kept running when I turned the ignition off and that was due to the faulty connector behind the fuse box which we discussed last year ;-0

Good luck, Jon.C.

[TasMan]

Hi Jon,

Just catching up here...
Yes the relays should be ok, I have got two and both were working before.
The fuse box did come to mind and I will definitely do some checks, seems to be the achillies heel with that one terminal getting burnt but I will need to do some further checks before starting pulling things out.

I also want to have a quick check of the ECU, do you just pull the carpet panel on the side of the tunnel to get access ?
Will update as we go... (which may be some time depending on when I get a chance!)....

[bogbasic]

Good luck. This might sound dumb but I've never come across an ECU on the 340's and 360 GLE. Maybe it's a GLT thing ? ? The closest to it is the circuit board in the back of the renix. I'll have nose in the Hades manual....

[TasMan]

Thanks Jon, yes I believe there is an ECU located under the dashboard somewhere. It is the brain for the Bosch LE Jetronic system. I was surprised too when I first read about it, but it makes sense. Something has to compute the various sensor inputs coming into the system. The graphic in the link below is quite useful https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/fuel_ ... System.pdf

I believe the code for the Bosch ECU is 0280000308 which is for the B200E set up.

Cheers Dave

[TasMan]

Well we are back up and running...
Various checks, reseating fuses, relays etc...suddenly re-starting which is good but slightly annoying as not 100% sure the issue.
However in my checks I ran the pump again for a good few minutes and there was a lot of air rattling around which eventually disappeared....maybe an air lock in the fuel lines after draining down ?
I have a fuel pressure gauge to fit in the line to check line pressures as per the book....will do that soon.
Starting was a bit sluggish and running rough, but with 30 litres of oldish fuel in the tank I stuck another 20 odd litres of fresh V Power in the tank. That has made a big difference, I think the fuel has been going off a bit which won't have helped.
Final checks found the pipe on top of the aux air valve was loose, easily sliding off the connection, now clamped up tight, I assume that won't have helped matters. Also found a vacuum line which easily slid off the tapping on the manifold, trimmed that up and now nice and tight. Running much better now....will see how we go...!