My car runs again :D (Some megasquirt stuff & informatio

[jtbo]

Got my friend to adjust map in low rpm while I was driving, now it works much better, then we switched places after 2nd corner his comment was "Damn, you have fast Volvo", this was right after he got tail out on 3rd gear around 2000rpm

My friend drives Honda Civic and Toyota Camry, he likes those Japanese cars. Last time I was riding with him in his brothers Subaru turbo, that was running around 1 bar of boost....

But I think that I got map tuned bit better, there is not much of kangaroo effect anymore.

One thing that could make my car run bit bad is this:


I don't know why, but distributor cap has always been that like, from very beginning when I got car. I think that I have bought 10 times new plugs, HT leads distributor cap and rotor arm. No explanation for this has been found, it is running same way even there is that burned like surface in towers 1&3 or 2&4, can't remember which ones it was.

I think I use bit of sandpaper for distributor cap and rotor arm next, can't afford to get new parts all time, besides I have few old ones still left

So did not had time for looking into aux air valve today, must look that tomorrow or some other day.

Found out that my passenger seat is just so comfy and has good support, would like to have similar to drivers side too
Or maybe I look into fixing driver's side seat, that can't be hard

I try to get tomorrow those new files uploaded.

[jtbo]

Here is new fuel map, not perfect yet, but much better, no more kangaroo effect.

I think I need to spend time with ignition map next and then start to finetune fuelling.

I have not yet looked into fuel consumption very much, but what I do know is that I have put 15l to totally empty fuel tank around 120km ago, there is still fuel at least for 50km. Driving has been in a city and bit on open roads, maybe 70% city and 30% open roads, but longest trip on open road with constant speed has been around 10km, so that is semicity driving still.

I would say that it is using less fuel now with new ignition. I need to do few changes to my install and then I can take a trip to see my father, that will be around 200km, maybe bit more, so I could see what is fuel consumption. Currently coil is held on place with metal wire and all kind of little protype things.

[jtbo]

Oh yes, I think I have not mentioned yet, but when I did install new ignition I could lean out fuel map a bit, even timing should be around same as it should have been before with Renix unit.

[jtbo]

I did 300km trip today, I found out that 1900-2000rpm is bit hard to tune well as there is more than one situation where map and rpm is same, but it will go lean on some case or rich on some case, there is no possibility to make it fine for all cases.

Fuel consumption is perhaps normal range, I had quite empty tank when I put 30l fuel in, I think that there was 3-4l left at most. I think that there is around 10l left now, but only when I drive more so that light will be lit again, then I know better, had no money to fill tank, even I got sponsor support
There was little city driving too, maybe 15km or so, I think that fuel consumption was somewhere around 7-8l/100km. Anyway it drinks much less than ever before and still has 30% more power.

[pettaw]

That's not too surprising cos the lower compression B200s were tuned for 92 octane petrol

Even putting the standard 95 octane petrol in you'll be able to run slightly more advance and therefore get more power, although if you're playing with the timing I would get a knock sensor, cos otherwise you may be detonating and not know about it until too late.

[jtbo]

I'm using 98-octane fuel, only 1,3€/l
Actually 95-octane started to detonate with carb and stock ignition, so I have not used that.

I have not yet made much changes to ignition table, but I think that I soon need to start tuning it little by little.

For knock sensing, here is circuit that may work, then would need knock sensor of course from 8 valve redblock:
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/knock.html

What I have heard detonating is very dangerous when there is more load, it is not as fatal on low load. Of course it does not do good for engine. Cylinder gasket may fail even there would not be any other damage.

One thing I'm bit curious is that maybe it would be consuming less fuel with stock cam?

[jtbo]

I did new calculations to reqfuel as I came to think about that there is no reason why mine should be lower than pettaw's and I found out that I had calculated it with 3bar fuel pressure before, but these cars have only 2,5bar fuel pressure. I'm not sure, but idle might be now better.
Intake air sensor is affected by heat soak from radiator, so that is messing idle when standing still, maybe I relocate that soon as it is not very big job to do.

http://www.janiervast.com/gallery/v/alb ... ?g2_page=2
I took today little shots from oscilloscope testing, these are output from lm1815 circuit.
I don't understand a lot from this, but I have been told that there is problem in this signal in finnish megasquirt forum.

One pic is from idle and others are where rpm signal starts to go crazy, around 5000rpm.

[pettaw]

I've edited the airdensity.inc or whatever its called, and put most of the bins around 20c at 100, so basically turns airdensity correction off, cos otherwise when it sat in traffic would start leaning out and driving me mad

If you download the source code, can generate new .inc files using easytherm and then edit the airdensity.inc and then recompile the .s19 file. That means you keep the coolant temps etc working correctly.

[jtbo]

I've edited the airdensity.inc or whatever its called, and put most of the bins around 20c at 100, so basically turns airdensity correction off, cos otherwise when it sat in traffic would start leaning out and driving me mad

If you download the source code, can generate new .inc files using easytherm and then edit the airdensity.inc and then recompile the .s19 file. That means you keep the coolant temps etc working correctly.

Nice, I know something from easytherm and temp sensor setup as I have even made finnish instructions of using easytherm, those are on finnish megasquirt forum, front page
From http://www.finsquirt.net/ pick from left Easytherm käyttöohje, makes most likely no sense to anyone but finnish speaking members

I must test that airdensity tweak, for example today it was -4 to -1 when driving and after few minutes idling on parking lot it went to +15

Of course even I know how to setup temp sensors I have been bit lazy and I have only made quick maps for sensors, I have not even changed bias resistors which I should do too, lol.

[jtbo]

I have no been able to make signal to work properly yet, they say it should not be spiky, but more flat at peak.
There is few things to try, but I think this could be because of flywheel holes, hole is bigger than part between holes and this makes wheel decoding at bit weird. There has been suggestions to modify lm1815 circuit so that it woul be set to 33/66 teeth/noteeth ratio instead of 50/50 that it is by default, but I have not yet started to do this.

[pettaw]

I tried what you suggested, I've richened all the 1700 and 1200 rpm bins from 14.7 to about 14.3 ish and the stuttering has virtually stopped Good call.

[jtbo]

I tried what you suggested, I've richened all the 1700 and 1200 rpm bins from 14.7 to about 14.3 ish and the stuttering has virtually stopped Good call.

Nice to hear that it helped

I just don't understand what is causing that problem, why it is needed to run bit rich. Even I have this programmable ignition, I can't find ignition timing that would help, only setting mixture bit rich is helping, maybe it is in engine design or because of K-Cam?

I'm out of fuel now and it will be nearly a month until I can afford to buy fuel again, did not get ignition solved, but what I found was that circuit that I made to proto board is not working so well as is my mess circuit that I made from pieces of wire and few components.

Fuel prices are also insane here, I find myself reading from making still and using Ethanol as fuel, what I read is that I would need to advance timing 5-8 degrees and that is about it, maybe little adjustments to fuel map. Only problem would be cold starting and also making damn stuff.

[pettaw]

Yeah, its because of the breathing of this engine/cam design. More 'normal' engines produce much more mainfold vacuum, ie: most cars will idle at about 20-25 MAP, whereas mine is more like 40, so I reckon it needs a slightly richer mixture until 2000 rpm ish to help with its breathing.