suspension
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VOLVO 340 (84)
- Posts: 35
- Joined: 19 Feb 2006 12:03 am
- Location: EGYPT
suspension
hi again iam sorry for asking alot
can i know the best suspension in the front and rear which make the car more stable and comfortable on the road
thnx in advance
can i know the best suspension in the front and rear which make the car more stable and comfortable on the road
thnx in advance
I look for a replacement of shocks for my 360 GLT (B200E) and can't find koni or bilteins for this model. I only find Monroe (discarded), Boge and KYB Excel-g. What do you think about this options? Do you know any web site where I could buy shocks/springs online at good price?
Thanks in advance and sorry for my bad english.
Thanks in advance and sorry for my bad english.
Volvo 360 GLT
- foggyjames
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 9361
- Joined: 29 Jan 2004 04:20 am
- Location: Nottingham, UK
If they're easy to find over there, pick up a set of Volvo OEM ones. On a car of this age you'll normally see a massive improvement in performance by using original spec parts which aren't worn out.
Those will usually be the best compromise between comfort and performance. If you decide you want more performance at the cost of comfort, you can possibly track down a set of used adjustable Koni shocks (which I think can be rebuilt, if they're worn). As mentioned, Spax shocks all round are on the way.
cheers
James
Those will usually be the best compromise between comfort and performance. If you decide you want more performance at the cost of comfort, you can possibly track down a set of used adjustable Koni shocks (which I think can be rebuilt, if they're worn). As mentioned, Spax shocks all round are on the way.
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
- foggyjames
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 9361
- Joined: 29 Jan 2004 04:20 am
- Location: Nottingham, UK
Yes, they work with stock springs. I know a couple of people with full sets, so I'll make enquiries.
cheers
James
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
Finally I choose a complete set of kayaba excel-g as a compromise solution for the use that I give to the car. The car really needs a new suspension and I order these set to a local dealer (200 € 4 shocks).
What I should buy to do the work(washers, top rubber)? Should I remove the balljoint of the steering arm to remove the front shock? How? Any tip?
This is the first time I 'll do this job, before that I only change the oil, brake pads, spark plugs... simple things. It's a difficult task?
Thanks in advance and sorry for my english.
What I should buy to do the work(washers, top rubber)? Should I remove the balljoint of the steering arm to remove the front shock? How? Any tip?
This is the first time I 'll do this job, before that I only change the oil, brake pads, spark plugs... simple things. It's a difficult task?
Thanks in advance and sorry for my english.
Volvo 360 GLT
It's not that difficult if the front shocks are not stock anymore..
You need to take out the entire strut (preferably) so you will need to loosen the steering balljoint. Here's what you need to do:
Detach the stabiliser (undo the nuts on the little metal bars that are fixed to the struts), and pull the little rods out of the way.
the balljoint is easy to remove if you have a steering knuckle remover, if you dont have special tools, use 2 hammers. First undo the nut on the steering knuckle to the point where it is level with the top of the threads. Now use one big hammer to support the underside of the ring that the thread goes through, and hit the top of the nut with a rubber hammer.. Or else put some piece of wood or something in between to make sure you dont damage the nut. If you give it a few hard hits it usually comes loose. This is necessary because the fit is conical, and needs a bit of an impact to shake loose (or constant force applied by the special remover tool).
With that out of the way the rest is easy.. you can loosen the balljoint on the bottom of the strut by removing the bolts on the little bracket with which it is attached to the control arm. Then undo the 3 nuts holding the top of the strutmount in place and you can take out the entire strut assembly..
From there on you need some spring tensioners so you can remove the spring without hurting yourself.
If the original shock is in there you need to hold it upside down so the oil can drain out. the old standard shock didnt want to come out on my car so I reattached the strut to the car on one point and started pulling like an idiot...this worked but I'm sure there must be a better way to get it out..
You need to take out the entire strut (preferably) so you will need to loosen the steering balljoint. Here's what you need to do:
Detach the stabiliser (undo the nuts on the little metal bars that are fixed to the struts), and pull the little rods out of the way.
the balljoint is easy to remove if you have a steering knuckle remover, if you dont have special tools, use 2 hammers. First undo the nut on the steering knuckle to the point where it is level with the top of the threads. Now use one big hammer to support the underside of the ring that the thread goes through, and hit the top of the nut with a rubber hammer.. Or else put some piece of wood or something in between to make sure you dont damage the nut. If you give it a few hard hits it usually comes loose. This is necessary because the fit is conical, and needs a bit of an impact to shake loose (or constant force applied by the special remover tool).
With that out of the way the rest is easy.. you can loosen the balljoint on the bottom of the strut by removing the bolts on the little bracket with which it is attached to the control arm. Then undo the 3 nuts holding the top of the strutmount in place and you can take out the entire strut assembly..
From there on you need some spring tensioners so you can remove the spring without hurting yourself.
If the original shock is in there you need to hold it upside down so the oil can drain out. the old standard shock didnt want to come out on my car so I reattached the strut to the car on one point and started pulling like an idiot...this worked but I'm sure there must be a better way to get it out..


