B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
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dalahare
- Posts: 291
- Joined: 17 Feb 2006 01:51 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Oz
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by dalahare » 03 Jul 2006 03:26 pm
Got the bolt in alright once the car was up on the hosist and i could move around under it.
I'm a little dissapointed though, the new diff works too well!
seems the old diff was so shagged it was acting as a LSD of sorts, in the wet the car would spin both wheels, it was great fun to drive, now it will just spin one wheel and you actually have to be going fast to get sideways, no more fishing up the road.
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mac
- Posts: 1403
- Joined: 19 Apr 2006 11:02 am
- Location: Needham Market U.K.
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by mac » 04 Jul 2006 11:58 am
If you keep spinning that one rear wheel you'll be looking for yet another diff. in short order (the planet gear bushings are the weak link on the 300 rear end!).
Still - on the bright side - at least you know how to change it now!
Mac.
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kaarel
- Posts: 76
- Joined: 31 Jul 2008 10:03 am
- Location: Tallinn
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by kaarel » 24 Mar 2022 07:18 pm
how do you remove diff rubber mountings? what size the nut is above beam, did not manage fit any spanner on it.
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SteveP
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 7943
- Joined: 21 Sep 2004 12:45 pm
- Location: Coventry, UK
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by SteveP » 28 Mar 2022 08:16 pm
kaarel wrote: ↑24 Mar 2022 07:18 pm
how do you remove diff rubber mountings? what size the nut is above beam, did not manage fit any spanner on it.
I think it might be 12 or 13mm from memory, but they are sometimes quite corroded. You can just about get a socket and ratchet in there.
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
