Wheels

Post by **340GLT** » 10 Aug 2006 12:02 am

Cutting threads on the outside of a 300 strut wont be possible as it starts at 52mm then reduces to 50mm, however i had the idea of cutting the top off, buying a weld on threaded coilover converter then welding it all back up.
Adam

Post by **foggyjames** » 10 Aug 2006 01:04 am

Depending on the clearance, there's not necessarily any need to weld the threaded strut tube to the existing strut. On 2/7/900s they just weld a 'stop ring' to the tube (a very delicate exercise, as the tube is prone to distortion) and slot it over - the weight of the car holds it all together.

cheers

James

Post by **IvanAE86** » 10 Aug 2006 07:39 am

I'm very familiar with most DIY coilover setups that people have made for the AE86 (my daily driver project), that has 51mm struts. Most people weld a threaded tube to it, or weld a small perch on the strut in case an aluminium coilover is used. Both methods work fine as long as your welding skill is good. Didnt know about the taper on the volvo strut.. will have to remeasure that this weekend. The problem with the threaded sleeve is that I havent found any that are cheap enough to qualify as volvo 360 material. I just cant justify putting stuff on it that costs more than a new 360 over here, although the wheel/tyre combo I just bought is worth 2 340's over here.

About the springrate calculation: coil spacing must have something to do with it.. closely spaced coils act softer, that's the whole principle that progressive springs work by. Now you could use the number of coils as a measure for this, but that will always give you an average. It's still early in the morning though.. so I havent gotten my brains very active yet.

I've gathered pictures of at least 3 different v300's with a rear ARB setup up till now so I do have an idea of how to fit it. I just dont have the time to go find out which bar will fit, and I havent got any welding skills to fab it up either.

All this talk and I still dont have any pictures of the Rota wheels. Just found out that the guy who took pictures has no way of downloading pics from his phone to the computer so it will take a bit longer than I anticipated.

Post by **jtbo** » 10 Aug 2006 02:29 pm

This calculator is only for linear springs, of course would be great to have it refined for non linear springs too, but finding usable formulas seem to be next to impossible, they are very much more complex to calculate.

I quickly made this, sorry works only in Internet Explorer, this is based on typical easy to find formula where you put certain weight to spring and measure how much it compress and formula will give you spring rate.

http://www.janiervast.com/tiedostot/Springrate.htm

I however find this quite useless, but if you have springs and some weight available it is easier to use, maybe.

If we know weight of car and weight distribution it is perhaps possible to measure in car too, but I'm bit skeptic about reliable result from that method.

There is many formulas, but always they are based to this one or then they use imperial units, those which use only math are much more rare, my calculator program is based to only one I have been able to find and it has limitations.

Here is one with imperial units, is using same method as my product:
http://www.engineersedge.com/spring_comp_calc_k.htm

Length of spring is not affecting spring rate, only number of coils, diameter of coils and wire thickness, with progressive springs it is coil diameter that typically changes.
It has been tested really quite times as I was thinking that spring length have something to add, but really it is meaningless

Here is old thread about this issue, but finding make take bit time.

You could check Mazda 323 (model that was made 1988 and some other years) front ARB, it has really deep U shape and width should be ok too as is similar size car.
That was what I was planning to try, also I was going to fit in without welding, but have not any possibilites to work with that anymore.

Post by **foggyjames** » 10 Aug 2006 06:45 pm

Rally Design over here do a DIY coilover kit for very cheap...sleeve and spring seats.

cheers

James

Post by **jtbo** » 10 Aug 2006 06:54 pm

We have this company here, don't know what kind of prices they ask from job:
http://www.rallysystems.com/e_docs/index.htm

Their page is available in English so I guess they deliver to other places too. I think that they are however pro shop for pros, so not very cheap...

Post by **IvanAE86** » 11 Aug 2006 06:52 am

Already looked into the rally design coilovers...the price is right but the inside diameter isnt. They're 2 inch...thats 50.8mm. Might try them out on the old levin, but I'm afraid there is not enough meat on the v300 struts to have them turned down to a 2 inch outer diameter.@ JTBO...I'll look out for those 323's next time I'm at a wrecking yard, should be able to compare sizes quite easily cause every dutch wreckingyard has at least one or two 340's.

Post by **IvanAE86** » 18 Aug 2006 05:21 pm

For those of you still wondering what 13x8 et4 rims look like on a 360:

Post by **foggyjames** » 18 Aug 2006 05:43 pm

PIMP!

cheers

James

Post by **SteveP** » 18 Aug 2006 05:50 pm

Damn, thats a bit special - and a first in the looks department for a 300... certainly not seen another like that

Post by **IvanAE86** » 18 Aug 2006 07:00 pm

Still need to cut the rear fenders and put the over-fenders on there... then it will probably look less retarted. I do love the look of those Rota wheels with big fat rubber on them (american style).
Also note the glossy DIY roller paintjob nearing completion...

Post by **Chris_C** » 18 Aug 2006 09:19 pm

I love that! Where are you getting your arches from??? How much? Fast Kar might have to become Fast Fat Kar!

Post by **340GLT** » 18 Aug 2006 10:22 pm

That is fat!!! Awesome dude!!!
Adam

Post by **IvanAE86** » 18 Aug 2006 10:43 pm

Got the arches for free from a friend. They're meant to be on some sort of 70's toyota celica I think. Anyway they look allright and I think they will fit the 360 just fine with a little bending and fibreglassing (need to reinforce that 30 year old plastic!). The only problem I've found is that there is little room to mount them to the rear fenders on my 4-door, so I cant cut off as much as I would like. I'm sure it will work out fine though, as the rear has not been lowered at all (it's a bit sagged though).

Post by **Gulbrandsen_Racing** » 09 Sep 2006 09:59 pm

HOLYSH*T! Nice!