My gearbox feels like a sandwich.. thats moved backwards!?

Post by **Maffooo** » 03 Oct 2006 06:22 am

Hey so my problem goes as follows; over the past 2 weeks ive felt the gearbox giving more and just generaly feeling more tired. then today, i was driving the car and getting into fourth was only possible by yanking the lever so far backwards that it started to bend the plastic behind it. Then back into 3rd, which is only possible by my hand rubbing against the dash, and the gear being in the position where neutral usualty sits. so the gears have all gone backwards.. ? its very odd. first is nearly impossible to get into, and reverse is just the same. getting into 3rd feels like the knob goes over a wee hill to get there.

it also regularly pops out of first and reverse gear. so its loose, its backward, and the top 4 gears have a verticle give adjacent to the ground of about 2km, and horizonaly 1000m. im not exagerating o.O

WHats happened!?

for now im stranded with the horror of driving a fwd rover 200

Post by **Fuse** » 03 Oct 2006 08:24 am

Gear lever has gone off from the torque tube. The plate where the lever sits is fixed to torque tube with one bolt and the plate is also attatched to bellhousing with a metal rod. Plate it self can crack/rust, so it starts to feel sloppy as it bends when you switch gears or the plate can come off from the torque tube completely. I had both and it sounds that yours has broken off from the torque tube too.

It can be fixed in couple of ways. Proper way is the hardest way because to fix it properly you need to take out the whole torque tube so it is a gearbox out-job. Or it can be fixed from above by cutting off enough metal around the gear lever so you can fix/weld broken things from above and after that weld the cutted metal back in place.

I just bolted the whole plate on to the body from the above and made an extra support bracket which is bolted on to the body. Some people have also welded the whole plate on to the body but this isn't the best solution as it causes resonances and vibrations to the body, but it'll do for now..

There are some pics to clear things out:

Here's a diagram of the whole setup and the bolt connection which is causing the problems (of course the whole plate it self can be rusted/cracked also)

http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/v ... ivusto.jpg

Plate looks like this

http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/v ... vusto1.jpg

And here can be seen the place on the torque tube where the plate SHOULD be attatched. It is not in this pic as it is broken in this one too.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/v ... vusto3.jpg

And here's a view from below without the torque tube and lever in place, someone had fixed the problem in this car by cutting the metal and welding it back after things had been fixed, as can be seen

http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/v ... vusto2.jpg

Post by **dalahare** » 07 Oct 2006 07:24 am

Same thing happened to mine, did the fix by cutting the tunnel and welding the plate back up and welding it all to the body, and yes it does vibrate and resonate, but it's not unbarable, certanly better then removing the box and torque tube. Careful not to set the carpet alight whilst welding it all.

Post by **Monsterbishi** » 03 Dec 2006 04:23 am

I have difficulty changing down into 2nd gear from 3rd, it's like there's a gate, if I'm doing more than 20-30kph it's almost impossible.

Would my problem have the same cause as the original posters?

Post by **classicswede** » 03 Dec 2006 11:33 am

Your problem sounds more like the syncro has gone.

If it was the common problem of the linkage braking off the lever moves aorund a lot more and feels loose.

Post by **Fuse** » 03 Dec 2006 12:35 pm

I would also check the adjustment of the reverse lock, that can cause some trouble with shifting also if it is miss adjusted.

Post by **volvo360gle/340turbo** » 03 Dec 2006 02:13 pm

i had this problem my self but it was a simple fix! if u take the rubber boots of round the gear stick u can see the end of the gear stick! there is a pin which goes through the the jaws and through the the end of the gear stick. the problem was the pin was only through one of the jaws, so ther was lots of movement in the gears! once the pin was put through the 2 jaws again it was like new!

Post by **Monsterbishi** » 03 Dec 2006 10:17 pm

Cheers for the tips, I've improved the shifting to the point where it will go into gear every time now when down-shifting by adjusting the gate that stops you from overthrowing the shifting to the left, I'll check those pins when I get home from work tonight.

This little car has been quite a pleasant surprise, I bought it off a guy for NZD$850 (EUR€430) it had a leaking fuel line, few spots of rust, shifting issue and a couple of oil leaks.

Took me all of $5 and a hour to replace the split fuel hose, replace the rubber seal under the oil cap, and sort the shifter, and I've got myself a nice daily driver to haul me to work when the weather doesn't suit my YZF750R.

Will hopefully have a second 360 by the end of the week, a '85 GLT, which will be a parts donor for this one, I presume I will benefit from swapping in the injected engine for a few more ponies?

Post by **stuartB** » 23 May 2008 03:18 pm

I know this is an old post... but, would you not be better taking that GLT engine (which is fuel injected im told, apologies if wrong) and take all thet stuff off to be replaced with twin SU carbs or something?

I was told carbs are more powerful than injection (cost wise, at least - obiously you could megasquirt it and stick a lary cam in it with injection but you'd spend less money just paying for the silly petrol consumption of the carbs)

depends how rich you are but id just stick a pair of landrover carbs on your 360 engine (which is effectively a 240 engine). If you want better power, anyway...

plus it'll sound RAW

AND you dont have to engine-swap :$

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RE: gearlever:

LOL at the comment about setting the carpet alight - was just thinking that whilst reading... i think i'll go from underneath - i can check the exhaust for leaks at the same time, while i've got the MIG out.

Is it possible just to drop the back end down and not take the bellhousing off or will this not afford enough room? AND how much of the rear end will need taking apart? i presume i can just undo both shafts at the diff end and leave the hub gear all assembled? also that chunky axle can stay there i presume?

sorry for the list of questions