Is there any unforseen, silly reason why a non-PAS rack won't bolt straight in place of my PAS one? Mine whines and creaks, and it's had a couple of hard knocks, so I thought I'd replace it, after which it'd be free with all ancillaries to anyone who wants it.
I've decided I want manual steering because I assume it's less work to put in, and since I'm not a wussy single mother, I have no need for its puny power assistance
Plus it'll save about 0.75Bhp
Cheers for any help.
No reason, you'll need the lower half of the steering column too though. The exhaust downpipe for a PAS is different, but will work fine with a non-PAS car.
Cheers, that's what I thought. That was another reason, more space for exhaust routing if a turbo was to politely approach my car, introduce itself and buy it a drink.
And the power rack has a different ratio. If you have the right tyres (and have increased overall offset, and maybe reduced castor) the power rack, without the power, is a way of getting quicker steering with plenty of feel.
not so sure that a PAS rack without pressure in it would perform the same as a non-PAS rack, just because all the valving etc is still there, and IMO would make it feel weird.
Agreed on the gearing though, PAS has almost a turn less lock to lock with the same steering movement.
Caster is the same on PAS and non-PAS cars, cos the PAS system was really an afterthought, rather than designed into the entire suspension system.
The yanks who remove PAS from 240s the lazy way loop a hose between the two point which usually have hoses connected which 'leave the area' (to the reservoir and from the pump, respectively). It supposedly works...
The bypass hose is the usual way of dealing with this. I havent actual seen one on a 360 but most seem to work ok this way. As long as there is something in there to lubricate it and no hydraulic lock it should work.