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A M R
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by A M R » 05 May 2007 09:31 pm
would anyone like to make a guide to doing general bodywork and spraying and all that sort of stuff.
havent got a clue where to start
or if anyone has a link, that would be handy too.
thats enough threads for one day i think.
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jtbo
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by jtbo » 06 May 2007 07:39 am
You sure have heard of from Google, don't you?
Input these words: removing rust painting car
And magical Google thing outputs lot of links that help to find answers to your questions.
Change search words and you will find magical Google thing outputs links to different subjects
Well, there is no easy way, it always takes lot of work and you will not learn it from books, you will find basic idea and some methods but it takes some trial and error to learn to make it good.
One tip, after clearing rust use rust eating primer or zink primer and make sure you get all paints from same place and ask such paints that works together, if you need filler same goes with it.
There is different paints that won't work well together and result is really bad in such case.
Volvo 360GL -88 -under restoration-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-

Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-


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Tourinki
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by Tourinki » 06 May 2007 07:57 am
Try to find book called Car Bodywork Repair Manual by Haynes. I have a copy of it which is translated to finnish. I think it is quite good it tells all the basic operations and it gives advices what kind of machinery you should buy.
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d3k4y0
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by d3k4y0 » 06 May 2007 08:35 am
All haynes manuals have a section in them in full colour about doing basic bodywork, it's pretty much spot on, but does promote certain brands more than others

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jtbo
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by jtbo » 06 May 2007 11:42 am
d3k4y0 wrote:All haynes manuals have a section in them in full colour about doing basic bodywork, it's pretty much spot on, but does promote certain brands more than others
They have?
I have proper Haynes for 360 and it does not have colour pics at all, also not much of bodywork repairs, just bit basics, nothing really well explained.
Book that Tourinki suggests should be good investment.
Volvo 360GL -88 -under restoration-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-

Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-


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A M R
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by A M R » 06 May 2007 06:11 pm
hmm yeh i'll have to get mo one of those books.
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IvanAE86
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by IvanAE86 » 06 May 2007 08:34 pm
I have the haynes bodywork manual.. some nice info in there for sure, but I'll honestly say that I jut went my own way and welded up (read: bodged) all the rust holes on my car without too much attention to detail. With the amount of rust all over my car, it's not meant for eternity anyway.. just needs to hold out on track for a few more years.
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Tourinki
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by Tourinki » 07 May 2007 05:17 pm
IvanAE86 wrote:I have the haynes bodywork manual.. some nice info in there for sure, but I'll honestly say that I jut went my own way and welded up (read: bodged) all the rust holes on my car without too much attention to detail. With the amount of rust all over my car, it's not meant for eternity anyway.. just needs to hold out on track for a few more years.
To be honest so did i and i am going to do excatly like that in future. But that book gives you good advices how to weld and how to shape metal. Also it tells something about painting.
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germ
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by germ » 07 May 2007 06:58 pm
ive just noticed that i have rust on my bonnet you know the bits each side above the head lights
there was rust at the back on the inside but now it seams to be comming through the outside there is a pin prick sized bubble of rust....HELP!!!
what can i do to stop/repair this . my dad says all is lost

the minite it starts thats it
^^i think he just doesent want to deal with it what can i do thats Cheap with it?
Cheers
will
Volvo 340

1988
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petefarrell360
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by petefarrell360 » 07 May 2007 07:05 pm
If you're not going to be able to sort if out for a little while, stop it getting worse by buying some Dinitrol rust prevention and protection oil. That will stop it getting any worse. It's not ideal for repairing around due to the oil contamination and for refinishing, but that can be dealt with then, and at least it won't spread.
Anyone with a bit of care and attention could repair that lip, if done properly, a good quality filler is perfectly acceptable on such an area. It's the bodge it and scarper merchants who fill big holes with newspaper and filler that give it a bad name and make people avoid it! On a scructural area, welding is the answer, but on the bonnet lip it should be fine, then a small localised paint job is required.
Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........
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IvanAE86
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by IvanAE86 » 07 May 2007 09:29 pm
Dont want to sound negative, but I think your dad is right. When double layer bodyparts start rusting at the edges, it usually means that there is a substantial amount of rust in the fold between the 2 layers (the inside framework of the bonnet is folded under the outer skin). you can bet that if there is rust coming through all the way to the outside, that there is little you can do to stop it from popping up a year later.
That being said, if you cant stand looking at rust, just clean up as much as you can and go crazy with filler, but in my opinion, the amount of work you'd need to put into it is a waste. You'll never get it to look nice because of the paintwork required. Better off just finding a good one on the scrappy in the same colour.
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germ
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by germ » 07 May 2007 09:59 pm
So i guess i would have to find a rare redline bonnet
nah but like i said its tiny at the moment but its odd how suddenly its happend
i dont want my car to fall apart

Volvo 340

1988
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petefarrell360
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by petefarrell360 » 07 May 2007 10:21 pm
IIRC a redline bonnet should be no different to any other in the same colour, no graphics on it or anything different, so finding another isn't the end of the world.
I know what you mean Ivan about the double layers. It's really where the water is trapped and the seams don't help. If it's only just gone through, then the inside is going to be shot, as it's been festering there long enough to get through to the outer layer. However, clean up what's left inside, protect it from getting any worse and make the outside look pretty and it should last a fair bit longer! Ideally either find a good bonnet, get it sprayed and rust proof it, or repair the old one fully. But when the costs are weighed up, these options don't appeal to too many people.
Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........
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IvanS.
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by IvanS. » 07 May 2007 10:37 pm
^^ Yes, than one of the option is to cut out the part of rusting metal and replace it with new one ( if you can find any double layer of suitable size ). You can weld that part if you're low on cash, and protect it with some rust-free chemicals to prevent rust to come back.
Part on scrappy are getting more expensive and damaged since no one repairs and clean them.
Then you can move to Africa and forget about rust

Volvo 340 GL 1.4 (1986)
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germ
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by germ » 07 May 2007 10:55 pm
cars dont tend to rust in france or where i am, thing is my car came from uk originally.
i dont know what to do, bits of the car are going to have to be painted at some point
i think ill dremel it and see if theres any metal there thats usable and rust proof it maybe a bit of filler smooth it out primer then prime whole bonet then again maybe again sand drips etc off then prime again nicly then top coat twice then a million tons of laqer...that should do the trick
this will also get rid of the scratches on the bonnet
id like to paint whole car but may be a tad expensive
but that should at least last a couple of years?? surly
my dad had the idea of painting the bonet black and also the bits around the windows that i de rusted all ready
but imo it will look odd also ive seen the right code of paint here maybe worth a try only in cans though
ahh iam sleepy after all that.
Cheers
will
Volvo 340

1988