340 1.4 to F7P or B230FK - Money, Problems???
340 1.4 to F7P or B230FK - Money, Problems???
Hi.
I recently brought a 88' 340 with a 1.4.
Currently its just sat but the plan is to convert this to a drfit/track car thats only used for driving to and from the circuits.
I have been looking at possible engine conversions and have the opertunity for both:
1) Renault 1.8 16v F7P - unknown miles, ECU, Loom, sensors
2) Vovlo 940 2.3T B230FK - 147K, Service History, Complete
Now my question is what work is invovled in each, advialablilty of parts, which would give the most power and how would the power affect the rest of the drive train.
I've found quote a bit of information on the 1.8 16v engine conversion and that was the way i was going untill this 2.3 T came up. So i have sourced a 1.7 340 which was on the way to a scrappy for the bits.
Im sort of thinking that 360 bits would be required in order to fit the B230 but concerned about how this would go with the 340 box/driveshaft and if they would last.
The whole point of this car is a nice and cheap drift/track car to get me started so dont want to be replacing boxes every time.
Any comments and help would be much aprreciated.
I recently brought a 88' 340 with a 1.4.
Currently its just sat but the plan is to convert this to a drfit/track car thats only used for driving to and from the circuits.
I have been looking at possible engine conversions and have the opertunity for both:
1) Renault 1.8 16v F7P - unknown miles, ECU, Loom, sensors
2) Vovlo 940 2.3T B230FK - 147K, Service History, Complete
Now my question is what work is invovled in each, advialablilty of parts, which would give the most power and how would the power affect the rest of the drive train.
I've found quote a bit of information on the 1.8 16v engine conversion and that was the way i was going untill this 2.3 T came up. So i have sourced a 1.7 340 which was on the way to a scrappy for the bits.
Im sort of thinking that 360 bits would be required in order to fit the B230 but concerned about how this would go with the 340 box/driveshaft and if they would last.
The whole point of this car is a nice and cheap drift/track car to get me started so dont want to be replacing boxes every time.
Any comments and help would be much aprreciated.
By the sounds of it you have done all the hard work by finding a 1.7 car. I have had a mare of a time trying to find various bits and pieces. (and still am)
Other than the wiring its all just bolt on bits, (unless you want to keep the heater).
Don't know much about the volvo engine unfortunatley but looks like you have everything you need for the F7P
Other than the wiring its all just bolt on bits, (unless you want to keep the heater).
Don't know much about the volvo engine unfortunatley but looks like you have everything you need for the F7P
You'd be better starting with the 360 for the 940 conversion.... the F7P is being done alot and is very well documented but the B230K will offer much more in terms of performance. The K runs low boost pressure 3psi(iirc), you can run 12psi no issues on the Mitsi 13c and get a conservative 170bhp... but a nice amount of torque, which I'd expect to be very important with drifting!
Basically, for ease - the 16v conversion would suit you... but for long term, I'd go with the Volvo block. For the Volvo conversion you'd need the complete 360 drivetrain including gearbox. The box itself is the same as used in turbo powered Volvo's, so that isn't the weak point at all. But other drivetrain areas (tt/box link piece) can sometimes give trouble.
There seems to be alot of diffs blowing up at the moment, but as far as I've gathered alot seem to be down to the welds breaking up and jamming between the diff gear and casing!
Basically, for ease - the 16v conversion would suit you... but for long term, I'd go with the Volvo block. For the Volvo conversion you'd need the complete 360 drivetrain including gearbox. The box itself is the same as used in turbo powered Volvo's, so that isn't the weak point at all. But other drivetrain areas (tt/box link piece) can sometimes give trouble.
There seems to be alot of diffs blowing up at the moment, but as far as I've gathered alot seem to be down to the welds breaking up and jamming between the diff gear and casing!
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
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- *** V3M DONOR ***
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the b230 will be a lot of work compared to the renault lump. But as steve says it would give plenty of power. Other possible engine swaps are 1.7 turbos from the volvo 400 range. Its all about how much time and access to tools you have as I imagine the b230 will require a bit of fabrication work to even get it sitting in a 340.
On the note of diffs, get it properly welded rather than any old muppet with a mig. Or I'm fairly sure that with a bit of research and effort a lockright locker for a dana 30 diff would fit which would be ideal for drifting but not for street (too grabby)
On the note of diffs, get it properly welded rather than any old muppet with a mig. Or I'm fairly sure that with a bit of research and effort a lockright locker for a dana 30 diff would fit which would be ideal for drifting but not for street (too grabby)
'89 360 GLE awaiting 2.3 power
the F7p(1.8 16v) engine is the cheapest to do
or I've been incredibly lucky with parts
engine: what ever your prepared to pay( i brought mine for £70 with loom and everything else on it.
enigne mounts, sump, bell housing etc. same again what ever you want to pay
loom, if you can do this yourself good if not people can do it i want say the guys prices just incase he dont like the idea
fuel pipe, im opaying just under £26 for all i need
fuel pump, what ever you want to pay
and then exhaust is a big cost. along with servicing etc
just be prepared to pay
ive got £340 in the bank just dedicated to getting my engine in and running
so im still sat below spending £500 on getting the thing in and running and i havent even touched the £340 yet. bits n bobs borrow/ on loan etc, and mechanic skills will see you far!
or I've been incredibly lucky with parts

engine: what ever your prepared to pay( i brought mine for £70 with loom and everything else on it.
enigne mounts, sump, bell housing etc. same again what ever you want to pay
loom, if you can do this yourself good if not people can do it i want say the guys prices just incase he dont like the idea
fuel pipe, im opaying just under £26 for all i need
fuel pump, what ever you want to pay
and then exhaust is a big cost. along with servicing etc
just be prepared to pay
ive got £340 in the bank just dedicated to getting my engine in and running
so im still sat below spending £500 on getting the thing in and running and i havent even touched the £340 yet. bits n bobs borrow/ on loan etc, and mechanic skills will see you far!

Thanks for all the answers! Kind of what i thought about cost/time but interesting about the power situation. 170bhp sounds fun!!
The F7P are 137 bhp standard arnt they?
I think i'll continue along the Renault engine path just because im pretty much there bar the actual swap. Im quite lucky to have a few friends who are good at frabrication and i work in an firm who does engineering some plenty of skilled peole around.
Confirmed tonight that i'll be picking the 340 1.7 up tomorrow. Going to have to decide wether its worth keeping that one as my base (3 door shell) or strip it and use the bits in my 5 door shell.
I'll get the B230K though and use it as my long term project. Give me plenty of time to source bits and give me a season getting used to the car.
Have you found any nasty surprises or problems in your Kaos?
The F7P are 137 bhp standard arnt they?
I think i'll continue along the Renault engine path just because im pretty much there bar the actual swap. Im quite lucky to have a few friends who are good at frabrication and i work in an firm who does engineering some plenty of skilled peole around.
Confirmed tonight that i'll be picking the 340 1.7 up tomorrow. Going to have to decide wether its worth keeping that one as my base (3 door shell) or strip it and use the bits in my 5 door shell.
I'll get the B230K though and use it as my long term project. Give me plenty of time to source bits and give me a season getting used to the car.
Have you found any nasty surprises or problems in your Kaos?
Well i had both of them side by side and a desicion to make.kaos wrote:3 door shell all the way! much sexyier car than the 5 door.
88' 5 door 1.4, white, 54K and good shell (couple of dings but no rust)
or
88' 3 door 1.7, grey, 120K and a few spots of rust (one patch on sill where its gone through the outer and rear wheel arch). Oh and heated seats

Really not sure!

The main reason i got the 1.7 was to break it for the parts but the 3 door is lighter (25kg if think) so would make a better base. Plus i wouldnt have to change everything. On the other hand ive got a mint low milage shell with low milage box and diff.
Was thinking of just keeping the 1.7 and selling of the 1.4. Its in way too good a condition to break/scrap.
Whats peoples thoughts?
I'll put up some pics tomorrow evening.
Well Slider
It's all decisions, decisions, decisions. I've currently got a 5 door as my everyday car and a 3 door off the road thinking of that engine transplant and welding that rear valence (ever taken that bumper off?). If you've got space keep both cars. We don't want our 300s to be in the "few left" like in the "Practical Classics" present article (Ladas, FSO, Simca, Renault 16, Fiat Strada).
It's all decisions, decisions, decisions. I've currently got a 5 door as my everyday car and a 3 door off the road thinking of that engine transplant and welding that rear valence (ever taken that bumper off?). If you've got space keep both cars. We don't want our 300s to be in the "few left" like in the "Practical Classics" present article (Ladas, FSO, Simca, Renault 16, Fiat Strada).
2012 Fiat Panda Twin Air
1995 Peugeot Harmony Autosleeper 1.9D
2023 Royal Enfield Himalayan
1995 Peugeot Harmony Autosleeper 1.9D
2023 Royal Enfield Himalayan
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Putting the B230FK engine in will effectively require you to take a 360 and swap most of the underside over. It's not that big a deal, and I'm planning to do exactly that to my 343 in the next couple of months...but it's not trivial.
I'd build yourself the 16v, go have some fun, and work on a 360 Turbo as a longer term project. The drivetrain should hold 200-250bhp ok...which the FK will give you with ease. My housemate's car (740 with a B230FK) is making somewhere in the order of 300bhp (dyno session with a good engine planned for April) with essentially just a LOT of boost (and a few bits and bobs to support it)
I make it sound so easy...
cheers
James
I'd build yourself the 16v, go have some fun, and work on a 360 Turbo as a longer term project. The drivetrain should hold 200-250bhp ok...which the FK will give you with ease. My housemate's car (740 with a B230FK) is making somewhere in the order of 300bhp (dyno session with a good engine planned for April) with essentially just a LOT of boost (and a few bits and bobs to support it)


cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
Thats because you missed out how many broken engines you and Nibbles have got through between youfoggyjames wrote: I make it sound so easy...![]()

'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast