Hi,
My clutch is pretty bad now. It kinda "screams" for a sec when i let the pedal out and slips for a second or so before the engine stabilizes in RPM's. Clutch doesn't bite until after I've taken my foot off it, and i can clutch this thing really sloppily without any kangaroo jumping at all.. Overall very sloppy engine response.
Is this because the plate is worn pretty much all the way down to the rivets, or is it something i might possibly fix by adjusting the clutch pedal (long shot in the dark i know).
The little "scream" produced when i take my foot off the clutch is a little worrying, it might be due to insufficient pressure and metal grinding together before there's enough pressure so that it doesn't slip.. or could be some sort of worn bearing?
FYI the diff is welded and the car has probably spent quite a couple of hours going sideways on snow and rainy roads.
I think i might be better off replacing it right now since I've angle grinded the exhaust system off and a completely new one is on its way right now, so i might as well do it while i got room.
I read somewhere that it's supposed to be kind of easy to change the clutch on the 1.4 litre models compared to the others.. is this job accomplishable for me who's never changed a clutch before? I am pretty good with bolts and screwing around in cramped spaces...
Any strange special tools i might need?
Clutch issues
Hi Pappa,
The symptoms you describe are pretty well those of a well worn out clutch - the "scream" you describe is almost certainly the release bearing under a load change (when you release the pedal).
Changing a clutch on a B14 (or a B172) is certainly very much easier than a clutch change on a 360 (with it's torque tube drive).
On a B14 there are broadly two ways to do the job - either removing the engine leaving the bellhousing in place (rear engine mounts are attached to this) or leaving the engine in place and removing the propshaft and bellhousing from under the car.
The way to go depends on what other work you wish to carry out at the time, how experienced you are and what equipment you have access to.
For a "novice" especially one who already has his exhaust removed I would go for the "leave the engine in place" option.
The only "special" tools you'll need is a clutch plate alignment mandrel to centralise the clutch centre plate when refitting and a good torque wrench (beg, borrow, steal last resort buy). I am also assuming you have a manual transmission car as the CVT centrifugal clutch is a little more complex. The job is well within the ability of a novice - always presuming he has a modicum of common sense.
Raise the car as high a you can at least on a pair of good ramps.
Chock the rear wheels. Disconnect the car battery.
In the engine bay remove the two large bolts at the "top" of the bellhousing.
Unbolt the Renix flywheel sensor and move to one side.
Remove the starter motor bolts.
Remove the splash guards (undertray) (if fitted).
If the exhaust downpipe is still fitted detach this from the manifold and remove it (allows more room to rotate bellhousing when removing).
Pull away the rubber cover and detach the clutch cable from the release fork (x2 10mm nuts - have seen 8mm).
Remove the flywheel guard (tin plate bolted to front of lower bellhousing by x2 10mm bolts/nuts).
Remove the propshaft - slacken the inhex bolt in each clamp (front and rear) and slide the propshaft to the rear until the front spline tube clears the clutch output shaft. The prop can remain on the gearbox input shaft but IT MUST BE SUPPORTED roughly in line (tie to gear linkage). I would strongly recommend slackening the two outer nuts on the g/box front cross beam to allow the transmission to drop down a little allowing you to completely remove the prop (by sliding it forward off the g/box input shaft).
Support the engine under the sump (eg.on a jack and block of wood).
Remove the rear engine mountings (fitted between the bellhousing and the body).
Remove the two remaining (17mm) bolts (have seen 19mm) holding the bellhousing to the engine (at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock).
Pull the bellhousing rearward (you may have to twist it to clear).
The clutch/flywheel unit is exposed on the rear of the engine.
Remove the six bolts holding the clutch cover plate to the flywheel and remove the cover and centre plates.
Brush out the flywheel recess (wear a mask) and check that there are no signs of deep scoring, cracking or overheating. Check also for any damage to the starter pinion engagement teeth. (in ring around outside of flywheel).
Check the clutch shaft pilot bearing (in centre of flywheel) Consider changing this if any wear is detected).
Using the correct alignment mandrel install and centre the clutch plate. (note the plate should be marked "F/W" or "FLYWHEEL" to denote the correct way round.
Locate the clutch cover and alternatly tighten opposing pairs of bolts to 20Nm.
Turning to the bellhousing - remove the old release bearing and clean the clutch shaft and bearing sliding tube. Sparingly grease the shaft and tube and fit a new release bearing.
Reassemble "in the reverse order".
Adjust the clutch (cable is tensioned by pedal spring) by the cable nut at the release fork such that the pedal height (surface of pedal to carpet) is 153mm - 163mm.
When refitting the propshaft DO NOT GREASE the splines and ensure the clamp bolts are tightened to 37Nm.
Hope the above helps - Mac.
Think that covers most of it - if I've left owt out someboby will shout.
The symptoms you describe are pretty well those of a well worn out clutch - the "scream" you describe is almost certainly the release bearing under a load change (when you release the pedal).
Changing a clutch on a B14 (or a B172) is certainly very much easier than a clutch change on a 360 (with it's torque tube drive).
On a B14 there are broadly two ways to do the job - either removing the engine leaving the bellhousing in place (rear engine mounts are attached to this) or leaving the engine in place and removing the propshaft and bellhousing from under the car.
The way to go depends on what other work you wish to carry out at the time, how experienced you are and what equipment you have access to.
For a "novice" especially one who already has his exhaust removed I would go for the "leave the engine in place" option.
The only "special" tools you'll need is a clutch plate alignment mandrel to centralise the clutch centre plate when refitting and a good torque wrench (beg, borrow, steal last resort buy). I am also assuming you have a manual transmission car as the CVT centrifugal clutch is a little more complex. The job is well within the ability of a novice - always presuming he has a modicum of common sense.
Raise the car as high a you can at least on a pair of good ramps.
Chock the rear wheels. Disconnect the car battery.
In the engine bay remove the two large bolts at the "top" of the bellhousing.
Unbolt the Renix flywheel sensor and move to one side.
Remove the starter motor bolts.
Remove the splash guards (undertray) (if fitted).
If the exhaust downpipe is still fitted detach this from the manifold and remove it (allows more room to rotate bellhousing when removing).
Pull away the rubber cover and detach the clutch cable from the release fork (x2 10mm nuts - have seen 8mm).
Remove the flywheel guard (tin plate bolted to front of lower bellhousing by x2 10mm bolts/nuts).
Remove the propshaft - slacken the inhex bolt in each clamp (front and rear) and slide the propshaft to the rear until the front spline tube clears the clutch output shaft. The prop can remain on the gearbox input shaft but IT MUST BE SUPPORTED roughly in line (tie to gear linkage). I would strongly recommend slackening the two outer nuts on the g/box front cross beam to allow the transmission to drop down a little allowing you to completely remove the prop (by sliding it forward off the g/box input shaft).
Support the engine under the sump (eg.on a jack and block of wood).
Remove the rear engine mountings (fitted between the bellhousing and the body).
Remove the two remaining (17mm) bolts (have seen 19mm) holding the bellhousing to the engine (at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock).
Pull the bellhousing rearward (you may have to twist it to clear).
The clutch/flywheel unit is exposed on the rear of the engine.
Remove the six bolts holding the clutch cover plate to the flywheel and remove the cover and centre plates.
Brush out the flywheel recess (wear a mask) and check that there are no signs of deep scoring, cracking or overheating. Check also for any damage to the starter pinion engagement teeth. (in ring around outside of flywheel).
Check the clutch shaft pilot bearing (in centre of flywheel) Consider changing this if any wear is detected).
Using the correct alignment mandrel install and centre the clutch plate. (note the plate should be marked "F/W" or "FLYWHEEL" to denote the correct way round.
Locate the clutch cover and alternatly tighten opposing pairs of bolts to 20Nm.
Turning to the bellhousing - remove the old release bearing and clean the clutch shaft and bearing sliding tube. Sparingly grease the shaft and tube and fit a new release bearing.
Reassemble "in the reverse order".
Adjust the clutch (cable is tensioned by pedal spring) by the cable nut at the release fork such that the pedal height (surface of pedal to carpet) is 153mm - 163mm.
When refitting the propshaft DO NOT GREASE the splines and ensure the clamp bolts are tightened to 37Nm.
Hope the above helps - Mac.
Think that covers most of it - if I've left owt out someboby will shout.
Hi! Thanks for a really long and informative post! I think i can do it allright without too much trouble considering time is really not an issue for me.
I have a couple of questions though
Your method does differ a bit from the other methods on this website and in the "manual" - http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... php?t=5138
Usually people remove the prop by first removing the rear engine mounts allowing the engine to slide slightly forward, and then they first pull the prop off the gear box then off the clutch, right? Your method seems to differ a bit, but would you consider your method to be easier?
Also when you say do NOT grease the splines on the prop, does this mean i should'nt grease the splines on the clutch shaft as well? Cause my car kinda growls when i put it in reverse if my revs are higher than idle, and i hear greasing the splines on the clutch output shaft is the way to correct it.
Again, thanks!
I have a couple of questions though
Your method does differ a bit from the other methods on this website and in the "manual" - http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... php?t=5138
Usually people remove the prop by first removing the rear engine mounts allowing the engine to slide slightly forward, and then they first pull the prop off the gear box then off the clutch, right? Your method seems to differ a bit, but would you consider your method to be easier?
Also when you say do NOT grease the splines on the prop, does this mean i should'nt grease the splines on the clutch shaft as well? Cause my car kinda growls when i put it in reverse if my revs are higher than idle, and i hear greasing the splines on the clutch output shaft is the way to correct it.
Again, thanks!
Hi again,
Most people have slightly differing methods - "my" version is based on the early factory "green books" My immediate comment is that to allow the engine to move forward not only do you need to remove the rear engine mounts but also release the fronts as well = unsecured engine. Having said that, it is actually possible to remove the prop without loosening the engine or the transmission cross member (you just use a little more force). Also from memory I seem to remember that it's an easier job on an M45R box than on an M47R. Once you have the prop loose it will be easy to see which end "should come of first".
The splines on the clutch shaft on which the centre plate runs should be lubricated sparingly. The "do not grease" applies only to the splines in the propshaft which fit in the end of the cluch shaft outside the bellhousing and on the g/box input shaft. Once fitted and with the clamps tightened there must be no movement between the shafts and spline tubes - any lubricant would encourage movement (however slight) and hence wear.
(in fact on CVT cars the prop should actually be glued in place by a compound called "Hytac")
ATB - Mac.
Most people have slightly differing methods - "my" version is based on the early factory "green books" My immediate comment is that to allow the engine to move forward not only do you need to remove the rear engine mounts but also release the fronts as well = unsecured engine. Having said that, it is actually possible to remove the prop without loosening the engine or the transmission cross member (you just use a little more force). Also from memory I seem to remember that it's an easier job on an M45R box than on an M47R. Once you have the prop loose it will be easy to see which end "should come of first".
The splines on the clutch shaft on which the centre plate runs should be lubricated sparingly. The "do not grease" applies only to the splines in the propshaft which fit in the end of the cluch shaft outside the bellhousing and on the g/box input shaft. Once fitted and with the clamps tightened there must be no movement between the shafts and spline tubes - any lubricant would encourage movement (however slight) and hence wear.
(in fact on CVT cars the prop should actually be glued in place by a compound called "Hytac")
ATB - Mac.
Hi
The manual specifies that you use a kind of light molybdenum type grease for the clutch shaft splines, but all i've got is lithium based greases.. but these will be okay right?
I have one can of very light lithum spray-on grease and a tube of lithium grease, which is the kind you use to pack wheel bearings etc. I assume one of these would be okay? Should i use the spray or the tube?
Also, the new clutch i bought seems to have some small scratches on the contact plates, you can even see bare metal in some of them. Is this a cause of concern or is it normal?
The manual specifies that you use a kind of light molybdenum type grease for the clutch shaft splines, but all i've got is lithium based greases.. but these will be okay right?
I have one can of very light lithum spray-on grease and a tube of lithium grease, which is the kind you use to pack wheel bearings etc. I assume one of these would be okay? Should i use the spray or the tube?
Also, the new clutch i bought seems to have some small scratches on the contact plates, you can even see bare metal in some of them. Is this a cause of concern or is it normal?
Grr. I cannot seem to get the prop off the box. I guess i just need more raw power.. should've had my dad home to help.
Edit: Heh, no problem getting it off once i removed the engine mounts. Having a hard time getting the bellhousing off now although I've removed all the bolts
Maybe I've missed one..
Okay edit again! Had to jack the engine further up to free the engine mounts.
Not only is the clutch worn down to the rivets, the rivets are actually worn as well. Now the fun part remains..
Edit: Heh, no problem getting it off once i removed the engine mounts. Having a hard time getting the bellhousing off now although I've removed all the bolts
Maybe I've missed one..Okay edit again! Had to jack the engine further up to free the engine mounts.
Not only is the clutch worn down to the rivets, the rivets are actually worn as well. Now the fun part remains..
Okay all done! It runs too!
But it still slips Only a slight fraction of how it used to slip, but it slips if i want it to.
Also the clutch pedal seems really easy to operate. Might be because i put some WD-40 on the wire and stuff.
My old man suggested that i slacken the wire, and I'm gonna try that, but i dunno.. I tried adjusting the pedal too but i couldn't figure out how to measure, do i measure from the firewall carpet on to the top of the rubber? Or the floor to the bottom of the pedal?
I have a bad feeling about this. I crapped up when i took the clutch fork off the housing and had a hard time getting the restrainer spring back on, and dunno if i did it correctly, but does that really matter much? Hmm hope i don't have to pull it all off again
But could it be possible the spring on the pedal mechanism is too sloppy for it to function properly? It's getting old and has been stretched quite far for months when the clutch was broken.. Possible to retension? Or is it possible to get a (new) replacement?
But it still slips
Only a slight fraction of how it used to slip, but it slips if i want it to.Also the clutch pedal seems really easy to operate. Might be because i put some WD-40 on the wire and stuff.
My old man suggested that i slacken the wire, and I'm gonna try that, but i dunno.. I tried adjusting the pedal too but i couldn't figure out how to measure, do i measure from the firewall carpet on to the top of the rubber? Or the floor to the bottom of the pedal?
I have a bad feeling about this. I crapped up when i took the clutch fork off the housing and had a hard time getting the restrainer spring back on, and dunno if i did it correctly, but does that really matter much? Hmm hope i don't have to pull it all off again
But could it be possible the spring on the pedal mechanism is too sloppy for it to function properly? It's getting old and has been stretched quite far for months when the clutch was broken.. Possible to retension? Or is it possible to get a (new) replacement?
-
foggyjames
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Slackening the wire a bit would probably be a good place to start.
cheers
James
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...