343 - B14.2E > B200'RS'

B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
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Jason B
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Post by Jason B » 11 Jun 2008 06:20 pm

Machine shop is next on my list once I've done a couple days on placement, as I also need a cylinder hone and will probably get the head skimmed too while I'm there.
'89 360 GLE awaiting 2.3 power

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 11 Jun 2008 06:32 pm

I didn't say it'd be faster, mainly due to weight...but I do expect it to make more power when done. It may need 45s to do it...but I don't see ~180bhp being an unreasonable target. A good exhaust, 45s, a hotter cam....and it should be making peak power at 6500-7000...which at the current torque level would put it in the 170-180 ball-park. A swap to 13mm rods would be wise if I plan to go much higher than 6500rpm...but it's not a big deal.

The F-series rev well in stock trim, whereas redblocks don't (peak power at 5000-5500rpm....lame)...but that can be rectified fairly easily. You've not got as far to take the F-series...but of course they do more out of the can.

To be fair, the F-series swap is way cool (and a better idea, really), I'm just getting a bit bored of it being 'the' thing to do. That's probably because for sub 200bhp, it IS the sensible thing to do...

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

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Jason B
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Post by Jason B » 11 Jun 2008 06:40 pm

lol, thats a lofty power target for a b200 - what "hotter" cam would you be choosing for that range, a kg one or a custom jobbie? - I'm hoping to see how far past 150bhp I can get using a stock H-cam and probably megasquirt on a b230fb with some other mild work, but I agree the key is reving it up more.
'89 360 GLE awaiting 2.3 power

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pistonpen paultje
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Post by pistonpen paultje » 11 Jun 2008 09:12 pm

I agree on that. When I first had the idea of the 16v, i had only heard of bennetts car, but it wasnt finished. Were about 1,5 years later, and due to busy study and funding, im still not driving with the valver...But there are at least 15 16v's around at the moment, as far as im aware of.

I love the Idea of a original volvo based engine, and I do love volvo engines! I also love the DLS/GLS'es. Maybe more than the F7p. But my choice was the 16v. And luckely probably the best base to drive 140bhp on LPG. But time will tell.

I love to see your car comming together. Is the idea to build a R-sport replica with B200, or just a nice 343 with a hell of a fast engine?

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 12 Jun 2008 02:23 am

Yeah, the idea is to make a replica of a 343 GLS which had the R-Sport kit added. It may eventually get turned into a replica of a 'proper' R-Sport (white with the blue/yellow stripes), but that depends on when and if I decided to get it repainted. I happen to have a load of R-Sport parts...plus a 1981 (DLS/GLS model year) car...so it seems rude not to!

Jason - I don't think you'll manage it without replacing the inlet manifold, or at least enlarging the throtle body (and perhaps the exhaust manifold too?). Andy's B200E with a K cam (and lets be honest....pimpness aside, they're near as dammit identical) and MSnS-E made 122bhp...and that's with higher compression than our later engines. There are reports of B200Es making 160+ on standard manifolds, but I'm not sure how, as Andy's was pulling vacuum at high RPM!

Tonight's progress report...
Well firstly, I renamed the thread (subtly), since I finally looked up exactly what the old engine was - it was a 2E.

Pics...

Nutserts!
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One installed B200...
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I do like my large jack / stands...
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The drivetrain is in and complete. The new pilot / spigot bearing is in. The clutch does release enough to allow the prop to be turned by hand...but it's fairly hard to get fingers in to turn the prop inside the torque tube, so it's hard to gauge if it's releasing 'properly'. Who's to say if it's dragging?!

Tomorrow the exhaust goes on...then it's a case of plumbing it all up, wiring it up, putting the body back together....er....and I think that's about it!

My major worry now is the clutch. If it drags again...I don't think it'll be at the national. I'll also be at a bit of a loss as to why it's doing it...

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

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SteveP
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Post by SteveP » 12 Jun 2008 10:05 am

Nice work, them nutserts look like a neat install. Infact the engine bay it self looks very neat and clean :D
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux

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MJ
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Post by MJ » 12 Jun 2008 01:53 pm

Looking realy neat, great work!
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pistonpen paultje
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Post by pistonpen paultje » 12 Jun 2008 01:56 pm

Are u using std. or 360 fueltank?

Chesh740R
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Post by Chesh740R » 12 Jun 2008 03:09 pm

Are you going to change out that weedy looking battery???

Much better to let that one die, than leave your Bosch Silver one unused and kill that.

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Post by volvorsport » 12 Jun 2008 04:59 pm

ooh , those nutserts work then ? :D

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 12 Jun 2008 07:01 pm

I am indeed planning to swap out that 'interesting' looking battery and fit the Bosch Silver I have from Rory. The 360's Varta battery...I think I'll have to use the charger to keep it conditioned. :? If anyone wants a battery, I have two spares for a 340.

Yes, the Nutserts seem to have worked a treat. I used a bit of that epoxy metal stuff inside them...which might help a touch?

I'm sticking with the 340 fuel tank. It gives way more space to work, and it means you don't have to use the annoying 360 handbrake cable arrangement.

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

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Joined: 16 Aug 2004 06:23 pm

Post by Chesh740R » 12 Jun 2008 07:15 pm

foggyjames wrote:
I'm sticking with the 340 fuel tank. It gives way more space to work, and it means you don't have to use the annoying 360 handbrake cable arrangement.

cheers

James
Is a 340 Fuel Tank smaller than a 360 tank then???

Me forsees many embarrassing adventures with plastic fuel cans in your future.

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Jason B
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Post by Jason B » 12 Jun 2008 07:22 pm

Starting to look seriously good, and I think your power goals are possible as long as you can make the torque at about 6500rpm+

on the note of the 360 handbrake setup, it is more annoying but it doesnt half work for instigating "not as highway code" turns in the road! :lol:
'89 360 GLE awaiting 2.3 power

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 13 Jun 2008 02:35 am

It is smaller Chesh. I guess I'll have to keep it topped up sm56 sm56 sm56 sm56 sm56

The car is now back together save one of the heater pipes, the heater box, a couple of wires which need extending, the exhaust & the bonnet. I turned it over on the starter (ignition isn't wired up yet)...and I'm still getting clutch drag. RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRR!

I'll see how bad it is once the car is up and running, but I'm now guessing that the clutch plate or disc is bad...probably the plate. The release bearing is identical to the old one (not shorter, or anything like that), I've replaced the spigot bearing and tried a different fork...carefully reinstalled everything... :? Thinking aloud...is it worth trying a different clutch cable, in case mine is stretching? I do have a brand new one here...

Any other thoughts? I'm (understandably?) not in the greatest frame of mind to be analysing this right now...

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

redline
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Post by redline » 13 Jun 2008 07:50 am

James ,
you have done brilliantly to get this far , and I know you want the car to be sorted for the bkv but its worth missing that deadline to get it right.

its got to be worth trying a new cable before you start stripping the clutch down
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