Electric Fuel pump issues. Help needed on page 2 :D

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cheshire190e
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Electric Fuel pump issues. Help needed on page 2 :D

Post by cheshire190e » 03 Nov 2008 06:22 pm

Hi everyone,

I have recently had a problem where when on motorways in 5th doing steady 3-3500 revs after a while the car just kangaroos then cuts out. I thought this could be the fuel pump. but...

I recently purchased an electrical fuel pump and a new cam from Dai, I have fitted both of these and now i have an even worse problem, and i have to drive back to uni at the end of the week :(

Basically the car idles ok when in neutral and i can press the accelerator pedal and hold the revs at any speed, but when i try and drive my car its ok for about 10 seconds and then just looses all power, kangaroos and cuts out, this happens in all gears and i cant drive for more than a few miles before having to wait 20 minutes then it will start again and i can get about another 2 miles.

Im loosing patience quickly and dont know what to try.

Please help me :D



thanks alot
Matt

Just another thought, my dad seems to think it could the renix unit does anyone else share this thought
Last edited by cheshire190e on 10 Nov 2008 01:28 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1987 Volvo 340 1.7

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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 03 Nov 2008 07:12 pm

Have you drilled the jets yet? That'd be my first idea, it sounds like the top end is all out. Put back the orig cam, and orig jets if you can, get it sorted before playing about tuning it!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

kaos
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Post by kaos » 03 Nov 2008 08:54 pm

sounds like my current problem on my B14.

Which ive put down tot he warped carb plus the need for a damn good service.!

How are your plugs and points etc?
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cheshire190e
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Post by cheshire190e » 03 Nov 2008 09:00 pm

more to add:

Tried to suss out the problem before, this is what i have so far.

The carb is getting fuel
The car runs fine for a while then cuts out after about 10 minutes, it fails to start straight after but then after about 5 minutes it will start up again.
The alternator is dead



I am starting to think it could just be the battery is dead, so it will work fine for a few minutes then after driving for a while there is not enough power to make the spark so it starts cutting out.

then after waiting the battery has long enough to recover to start again.

I think this because the problem is getting worse and worse and the time between being able to start the car is getting longer and longer.

I have put my battery on charge, so ill see if it drives fine for an hour or so in the morning. If not im stumped :(
1987 Volvo 340 1.7

kaos
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Post by kaos » 03 Nov 2008 10:54 pm

go pull the spark plugs out. and check there condition same wih the rotor arms and caps and leads!
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cheshire190e
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Post by cheshire190e » 04 Nov 2008 02:04 pm

I have just recently changed the rotor arm, dizzy cap and leads and plugs.

The carb has newly been rebuilt and the base skimmed so that cant be it either.

Im so confused to what it could be, all i can think is ignition unit.

Cheers mate
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jarlidge
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Post by jarlidge » 04 Nov 2008 02:51 pm

hi

had roughly the same problem back along with my gle,

was sorted once i swapped the renix- problem solved.

cheers

jeff

cheshire190e
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Post by cheshire190e » 04 Nov 2008 07:37 pm

Cheers Jeff,

Gonna get myself a renix and pray :D

i dont know what else to try after that,

Cheers

Matt
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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 05 Nov 2008 12:09 pm

Matt, take the coil unit off the renix, see if the terminals are corroded, and abuse with contact cleaner.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

cheshire190e
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Post by cheshire190e » 05 Nov 2008 12:41 pm

Cheers Chris, will do.


More to add again. My car idles fine but when its under load just kangaroos then cuts out.

Here is a video of trying to start after its cut out. if you wanna give it a watch and see if there are any clues in it.

http://www.youtube.com/v/SKQEqrA3xtU

the tap tap tap noise is the accelerator pedal

Cheers

Matt
1987 Volvo 340 1.7

germ
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Post by germ » 05 Nov 2008 07:44 pm

it sounds like its running on 3 cyl or less. did you blow the fuel lines out?

another thing is the dizzy cap can fill with oil and stop it working properly. have you checked the plugs? if one is cracked or something or even the leads, they could be damaged(even if they are new!)
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cheshire190e
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Post by cheshire190e » 06 Nov 2008 06:23 pm

More to add...yet again..


I think i have finally sussed out the problem. hopefully :)

Basically, when the ignition is turned on the fuel pump is working as normal and is pumping fuel at a steady rate. But when the car is running the pressure drops dramatically and barely any fuel pumps through.

I have tried hooking the fuel pump up directly to the battery but it still looses power when the car is running.

Is this due to a bad earth somewhere? how would i go about fixing this?

Cheers guys

Matt
1987 Volvo 340 1.7

DeKayDAD
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Post by DeKayDAD » 06 Nov 2008 10:38 pm

Take another earth direct from fuel pump to battery earth to prove that.....
Neil.(i'm not old,Im only 48)

kaos
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Post by kaos » 06 Nov 2008 11:43 pm

your pump willbe droping pressure because the alternators droping.

trust i have manual pump( engine one) and it has this problem. because the engines struggling ive seen the alternator practicaly stop running!

give it a service.
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cheshire190e
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Post by cheshire190e » 07 Nov 2008 12:36 pm

I have just fitted a new alternator and the problem is still there, I have earthed it to the lower right hand side of the battery tray where the engine earth goes.

Is there another place to earth it which may be better?

Cheers


Matt
1987 Volvo 340 1.7

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