Cheers man, I'll try a bodge and see how it goes! Get well soon.

I can confirm that the inside of a new Otter G6 looks suspiciously like the old one, but not exactly the same.
Now... then... now... then... ... Geddit?? I guess that's a bad sense of humour these days

Do you like.... the music of.... Shawaddy...waddy?

Too soon

Too soon?? Totally blind drunk, please explain it to me, all. Thanks all.

Down by the resistor side...

Rattle, rattle. I have soldered in the Otter G6 and it fits perfectly, looking small, neat and absolutely gorgeous... ... however, testing it on the car today with the cover off merely reproduces an effect that was reported earlier - it switches on and off every second or so at full fan-speed. It does seem to work OK on slow and medium speed though, which might be alright if you were desperate, but not ideal really.

So my next question is... if I solder in the ETA 1620-1 switch instead somehow, do you leave it with the cover on or off?? My temptation would be to fit it with the cover off so that it is sensitive to rapid temperature changes in the resistor coils. However, Mac's posts above suggest that it should be with the cover on, so I have to accept that the answer to this question may be... hidden in plain sight ;-0

You're finding exactly the same as I did - the G6 that I was able to source was fine on speeds 1 & 2 but activated on 3. The G6 of course is available in a range of trigger temperatures - if you can identify and source them.
As stated, Otter, was spectacularly unhelpful declining any help to either identify the rating of the originally used G6, nor to advise on a suitable unit, or to source any units. I was left to acquire "a G6" of unknown spec. (From the bay) as a test.

ETA however were quite different, happily, not only advising, but supplying a small number of test devices (their equivalent of Otters G6). After carefully measuring the operating temps and current draw of the various fan motor versions used I settled on a suitably rated version of the 1620. Several resistor packs are now on long term test as so far all seems to be going well.

I have found nothing to be gained by removing the cover from the 1620 - both cased and uncased the cut out reaction time under "fail" conditions (motor stall or airflow blockage) proved to be very similar to a "NOS" pack with a G6.

If you want to try yourself go far the 1620-1 25A resettable unit - don't worry about the 25A rating (it's above the circuits current draw, which are fuse protected anyway) it's the thermal performance that this rating was chosen for.

Mac.

mac wrote:The G6 of course is available in a range of trigger temperatures - if you can identify and source them.

...There's a clue in that sentence somewhere...

Evil stuff, man. Cryptic and mystic, like and old chef's trade secret (;-) but I'll get to the bottom of it one day, man ;-s

I went for the ETA switch and its feet seem to fit through the holes in the floor panel reasonably well.... ...with a bit of bending about here and there. More jingle jangle jewelry to fit to me motor car...

As it 'appens I got a chance to fit it today and it seems to work fine at all speeds and the car hasn't caught fire yet. That blower seems to make a serious draft at full-speed so I can see why it needs a lorra Amps. Cheers for all that quality advice, MAC.

Almost ready to start a "production run" of rebuilt resistor packs (which will be marketed on an exchange basis through R.J. And Born Built Beauties (Volvomania)).

Only the resistive wire coils and the perforated shield will be re-used with all other components being new (including the "Tufnol" mounting board)
I have decided to have the shields refurbished by YZP plating and have accordingly been preparing them.

Very very rusty - either a lot of very delicate work - or 20 mins in 81% Phosphoric Acid --- Amazing!



Mac.

I've found the one I have in bits here. Will bag it up and post it.

Shields are back from the platers, drool, drool.



Mac.