Chris_C wrote:Have new bolts ready, I normally shear them.

+1

It's usually a blessed relief if you DO shear them, as they're annoyingly long bolts...

I'd describe that rust on the front panel as "normal". A lot of 300s have that there. The stuff in the rear arch...not so much. It's a known weak-spot, but not as common. Nasty. If you need any sections cutting out of either of my scrappers...who ya gonna call?

cheers

James

Cheers Guys, i had another attempt at the rear bumper today and got a annoyed with it so its still on I have started the rust repairs which i can handle which is all the stuff around the wheel arches, the little bits Removed the plastic which runs along the sides of the roof and was very pleased to find only the smallest of rust patches. Work is going slow so expect to see a grey primered 340 roll up to retro rides lol, hope it doesnt rain

apart from that the car is pretty much ready for welding and then mot, just gotta hope the shocks are ok for it and that the mot man doesnt mind chopped springs, as i had planned to replace them all but work decided to pay me a fraction of my wages and keep the rest until next month Horrible people!!!

Cheers Dan

Ok so did a little bit of work on her today, just started to tidy up the body and get her ready so once my mate has removed to bad the rust it will be ready to paint. mot and then drive to retro rides, although i may roll with it in grey primer for a while so i dont have to rush the paint job.

Any way got the rear drivers side wheel arch rust free and primered not much rust just a few little bubbles which is where my skill level is at right now (didnt get any before shots cause im an idiot and forgot )







Front passenger side almost finished just needs some filler sanded down and its done.





Also i removed the gutter trim and to my absolute surprise it was spotless on one side and had the smallest amount of rust on the other. Just gotta remove all the nasty glue it left.





How she looks now.



Cheers for looking

Dan

Cool Dan its getting there.
Adam

Good working dude.
Looks smooth as a babys bott.

that paint job is gonna look killer man.

Cheers Guy.

How are you going to paint it? I've just resprayed my wheel arches, (with a can) and it's a bit matt. Going to leave it a couple of weeks and give it some t-cut, see if that helps!

With paint you need ideally to flat and polish the day after, otherwise its too hard to get ny heat into it.
Adam

Im going to be using my mates compressor for the main spray job, The finish you get from your painting depends on how much work you put into preperation, light sanding between each coat to get it smooth, that kinda thing. Hard work but worth it when you get a good finish.

Im going to be going Royal maroon with mine as, its a mustang color, along with a matt black bonnet.



Hopefully ill pull it off.

Dan

dude, if it looks 1% as good as that (in cool terms), it'll be magnificent.

Someone pass the Kleenex.

sven360 wrote:Someone pass the Kleenex.

Bear in mind that if you've gone through the waterproof layer (i.e. to primer or bare metal), you need to put a top coat on before it gets exposed to much in the way of water...or be ready to take it back to bare metal again prior to paint (and re-primering). Exactly how time-critical this all is, I'm not sure...but a number of professionals have said the same thing to me...no moisture when in primer, or you're opening the door to your fresh paint failing, and the rust creeping back in.

cheers

James

True that, even the touch of a hand can get your car rusting again!