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Re: Another one..

Posted: 26 Mar 2009 01:24 am
by foggyjames
I've got a red bonnet here which owes me about £20. I can't really get it to you at present, but if you fancy a jaunt up the M69, let me know...

cheers

James

Re: Another one..

Posted: 26 Mar 2009 08:16 am
by xtrmjks
jtbo wrote:On that page, after general info there are some numbers:
http://legolas.mdh.se/~mas95jed/volvo/cam.htm
Thanks, I'm looking for lift (in mm) at TDC..?? Whith standard cam in B200 and B230

Re: Another one..

Posted: 26 Mar 2009 04:25 pm
by jtbo
It depends more from what letter comes after engine code, B200, K, E or F?

E has mostly A-cam, F can be A or M, and K can be Y or was it L that I heard someone found from his, but I don't know what spec L is. Oh yes and B230K has bit odd cam as it uses T-cam which is probably one of worst for NA engine, imo.

From that page I did post, A cam is 10.5mm lift and Y cam is 10.35mm lift.

TDC confuses me, as at TDC cylinder's valves should be closed, right?
Those numbers are max lift when valve is fully open.

Now WHY you need this information, you are trying to fit some super high lift cam into that motor? Not that I would be curious (I am) :mrgreen:

Re: Another one..

Posted: 26 Mar 2009 06:01 pm
by xtrmjks
jtbo wrote:It depends more from what letter comes after engine code, B200, K, E or F?

E has mostly A-cam, F can be A or M, and K can be Y or was it L that I heard someone found from his, but I don't know what spec L is. Oh yes and B230K has bit odd cam as it uses T-cam which is probably one of worst for NA engine, imo.

From that page I did post, A cam is 10.5mm lift and Y cam is 10.35mm lift.

TDC confuses me, as at TDC cylinder's valves should be closed, right?
Those numbers are max lift when valve is fully open.

Now WHY you need this information, you are trying to fit some super high lift cam into that motor? Not that I would be curious (I am) :mrgreen:
That's exactly what I'm doing!!
I got setting for new cam, xxmm lift at TCD
just wondered what standard lift would be with standard cam..
Basicly, how much lift does std cam have @10dec.
Std cam is timed to 10dec at TDC..

Re: Another one..

Posted: 26 Mar 2009 06:21 pm
by Nikdev
xtrmjks wrote:
jtbo wrote:
xtrmjks wrote:How do you get in contact with them? My Norsk is bad, ie. none...
At SAM and KG-trimning they understand at least Swedish and English, not sure about Norsk, but on good day I have heard them understanding Finnish too, but that is probably just urban legend :lol:

What is diff ratio? Be careful that it won't bog when shifting 3rd as 2nd to 3rd shift causes quite massive rpm drop.
I was only joking about "norsk"...
Folkrace cams are cheap!! :D
Errrmmmm!

Nice work man! I really want some of your parts :D
Are you using 2 1/4 or 2,5" springs on your coilovers? And what sping rate do you got?

Re: Another one..

Posted: 26 Mar 2009 06:50 pm
by jtbo
xtrmjks wrote: That's exactly what I'm doing!!
I got setting for new cam, xxmm lift at TCD
just wondered what standard lift would be with standard cam..
Basicly, how much lift does std cam have @10dec.
Std cam is timed to 10dec at TDC..
Crazy man :mrgreen:

sm14 One tooth of cam belt was around 3 degrees from my memory. You should be able to calculate how much difference there is with that 10 degrees.

With B200K limit was around 13mm lift, but didn't you had B19A base engine? With B19A you could get any lift and it should work out as there is huge gap between piston and valve.

There was also some problem after 13-14mm lift with valves, space issues with head, cam and valve or something like that, can't remember too well as it is quite long time since I did talk with one Volvo engine wizard from different possibilities and limits.

Re: Another one..

Posted: 26 Mar 2009 09:06 pm
by foggyjames
Yeah, the standard cams are around 10.5mm peak lift, while the hotter factory cams (like the K) are more like 12.5mm.

Ultimately you can run out of space for the cam lobes to turn, but that requires lots and lots of lift. I don't think anyone other than the Swedes (for their NA-only classes) bothers with taking NA redblocks very far, given how much easier (if less cool...) turbocharging is...and the Swedes like to keep their cards close to their chests :)

cheers

James

Re: Another one..

Posted: 26 Mar 2009 09:31 pm
by foggyjames
Oh...while I'm here...I'm curious about your comment re: 10 degrees timing at TDC, Joni. Have you measured lobe position relative to the 'peg' position on the cam, or are you just going on the timing marks on the bottom pulley and the cam gear?

The 'main' timing mark (for timing a cam, opposed to the 'big' and easily visible one on the bottom pulley with marks on the cambelt cover for setting ignition timing) is on one of the cambelt guides either side (front to back) of the crank cambelt gear. Looking at that one, everything lines up 'straight' (especially easy if you have the engine sat on a stand, vertically).

The problem is that (if memory serves correctly) the one on the pulley is offset (points up at the sky at TDC?), while the cam gear marking is in line with the centreline of the crank, which can be pretty misleading. In other words...TDC is not vertical, once installed...it follows the slant angle of the engine...but (I think) the pulley timing mark doesn't. Confusing...

Does that make any sense? It's kinda hard to explain. Apologies if a) I'm wrong, or b) the cam itself has the peg sat 10 degrees out (and I've never noticed), or something like that, and I've just insulted your intelligence :D

cheers

James

Re: Another one..

Posted: 26 Mar 2009 10:29 pm
by xtrmjks
foggyjames wrote:Oh...while I'm here...I'm curious about your comment re: 10 degrees timing at TDC, Joni. Have you measured lobe position relative to the 'peg' position on the cam, or are you just going on the timing marks on the bottom pulley and the cam gear?

The 'main' timing mark (for timing a cam, opposed to the 'big' and easily visible one on the bottom pulley with marks on the cambelt cover for setting ignition timing) is on one of the cambelt guides either side (front to back) of the crank cambelt gear. Looking at that one, everything lines up 'straight' (especially easy if you have the engine sat on a stand, vertically).

The problem is that (if memory serves correctly) the one on the pulley is offset (points up at the sky at TDC?), while the cam gear marking is in line with the centreline of the crank, which can be pretty misleading. In other words...TDC is not vertical, once installed...it follows the slant angle of the engine...but (I think) the pulley timing mark doesn't. Confusing...

Does that make any sense? It's kinda hard to explain. Apologies if a) I'm wrong, or b) the cam itself has the peg sat 10 degrees out (and I've never noticed), or something like that, and I've just insulted your intelligence :D

Mad, I came across this!! I've marked "new" TDC with help from dial gauge. I got new timing sorted, just wondered what was standard (B200) valve lift at TDC..
I'm starting to prep car for re-spray this weekend, I'm going for original color..

Front coilovers are 2,5" and 300 lbs

cheers

James

Re: Another one..

Posted: 27 Mar 2009 08:51 pm
by xtrmjks
Started to strip Daily for paint next week (lights, bumpers, mirrors, front wings, door handles..)..Flatening it tomorrow :D
Was thinking of removing boot lock and door handles.. :wink:

Re: Another one..

Posted: 27 Mar 2009 11:12 pm
by Bazboy
That could look cool, would you put in a popping mechanism? Also what color scheme you going for, Standard? something eye catching?

I heard matt maroon is quite a sweet color :D

Dan

Re: Another one..

Posted: 28 Mar 2009 12:29 am
by SteveP
We need sound of this thing ;)

Re: Another one..

Posted: 28 Mar 2009 08:36 am
by xtrmjks
SteveP wrote:We need sound of this thing ;)
:D I'l ge video, when cam arrives!!
I was trying to work spare central locking motor to work the boot release, polarity has to be reversed to open/shut..
Any ideas how to do this by switch?? :?
Going for standard color for "sleeper" look :D

Re: Another one..

Posted: 28 Mar 2009 11:27 am
by J340GLT
xtrmjks wrote: Was thinking of removing boot lock and door handles.. :wink:
I am doing this at the moment..could use a motor out of a 240/740 for the boot..

Re: Another one..

Posted: 28 Mar 2009 05:34 pm
by xtrmjks
Here is some pics from today,
before,
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after,
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boot and rear doors, still not shure if I'l do fronts..
Image
Image
Got rear boot "popper" working, link from latch to motor was getting tight on release..
gettin on..,
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