B14 terrible exhaust and cooling-fan problem
Re: B14 terrible exhaust and cooling-fan problem
Holy crap! Morons
Re: B14 terrible exhaust and cooling-fan problem
Ok, this is how it is now
Changed things
Airfilter
Sparkplugs
Rotory + its house
Cables
RENIX ( From 411 to 402 )
Carb is cleaned and new gaskets ( Not for the accelerator pump, but all paper ones )
If you run under 20 must 1 gear be on, cant run on secound
If your on 3rd gear it goes "smooth" with say 30% Choke in 40 kmph, but if you remove choke it gets shaky/coughy
Same as above but going it cant run in 50kmph clean, but 60 works propper
No missfire during full throttle
Also runs smooth on idle when its cold on half choke
Screwing the CO-screw doesnt make any difference but after i changed Renix have it stop heat-fire when you turn it off
BUT
BUT
BUT
With the new Renix box i got did it come an older Ignition "house", may this be the problem? It was from a 84-
Changed things
Airfilter
Sparkplugs
Rotory + its house
Cables
RENIX ( From 411 to 402 )
Carb is cleaned and new gaskets ( Not for the accelerator pump, but all paper ones )
If you run under 20 must 1 gear be on, cant run on secound
If your on 3rd gear it goes "smooth" with say 30% Choke in 40 kmph, but if you remove choke it gets shaky/coughy
Same as above but going it cant run in 50kmph clean, but 60 works propper
No missfire during full throttle
Also runs smooth on idle when its cold on half choke
Screwing the CO-screw doesnt make any difference but after i changed Renix have it stop heat-fire when you turn it off
BUT
BUT
BUT
With the new Renix box i got did it come an older Ignition "house", may this be the problem? It was from a 84-
Re: B14 terrible exhaust and cooling-fan problem
Renix matches the tables that I have but at least its from the correct engine range so I don't think that's your problem.
Something is screwed up in the carburettor. Have you got all the vacuum lines connected properly? Your pictures aren't all that clear, but from what I can see, you've not got anything connected to the vacuum advance on the Renix. That should be connected to the electronic valve which in turn is connected to the carburettor.
However, a vacuum leak is not going to produce an idle CO of 8%. Are you adjusting the correct screws to try and get the idle right? There is more than 1 idle speed screw. The procedure is as follows. Firstly get the car up to operating temperature, and then do the basic setting adjustment. The most obvious screw is the idle bypass screw. You screw this in all the way. There should be another screw beside it somewhere, possibly down lower on the carb baseplate that adjusts the mixture. It may be covered with a tamper proof cover which will need to be removed. You screw this gently in all the way too, and then back it off 2.5 turns. The third screw adjusts the throttle valve directly and will sit somewhere on the actual throttle linkage. This may also be covered with a tamper proof cover. To set this screw, you need to start the car up and then set it so the car idles at 600rpm, that's a very low idle. You then unscrew the idle bypass screw until you get the idle speed correct again, then you correct the idle mixture.
The easiest way to set idle mixture if you have no CO meter, is to screw out until the engine runs the absolute best and smoothest. Correct the idle speed using only the large bypass valve to approx 950-1000RPM ie: 500-1000 rpm higher than you want it. Then you screw clockwise the CO mixture screw until the idle speed comes down to the correct 900rpm. But if someone has screwed about with the settings you need to start with that basic setting procedure I described above.
Hope that helps.
Something is screwed up in the carburettor. Have you got all the vacuum lines connected properly? Your pictures aren't all that clear, but from what I can see, you've not got anything connected to the vacuum advance on the Renix. That should be connected to the electronic valve which in turn is connected to the carburettor.
However, a vacuum leak is not going to produce an idle CO of 8%. Are you adjusting the correct screws to try and get the idle right? There is more than 1 idle speed screw. The procedure is as follows. Firstly get the car up to operating temperature, and then do the basic setting adjustment. The most obvious screw is the idle bypass screw. You screw this in all the way. There should be another screw beside it somewhere, possibly down lower on the carb baseplate that adjusts the mixture. It may be covered with a tamper proof cover which will need to be removed. You screw this gently in all the way too, and then back it off 2.5 turns. The third screw adjusts the throttle valve directly and will sit somewhere on the actual throttle linkage. This may also be covered with a tamper proof cover. To set this screw, you need to start the car up and then set it so the car idles at 600rpm, that's a very low idle. You then unscrew the idle bypass screw until you get the idle speed correct again, then you correct the idle mixture.
The easiest way to set idle mixture if you have no CO meter, is to screw out until the engine runs the absolute best and smoothest. Correct the idle speed using only the large bypass valve to approx 950-1000RPM ie: 500-1000 rpm higher than you want it. Then you screw clockwise the CO mixture screw until the idle speed comes down to the correct 900rpm. But if someone has screwed about with the settings you need to start with that basic setting procedure I described above.
Hope that helps.