cvt noisy?

[macplaxton]

Double check electrical supply to the valve.

Repair kit for Vario Valve. "Vermillion" is doing these, but you might not have a pocketful of Euros. I got some "UK" stock - PM me if you want one.

(Off to work now, so don't expect lightening fast replies )

[spike4073]

hmm, whats the best way to check the electric supply to the valve?

[spike4073]

scratch that,

ive just double checked the power supply to the valve,

theres power going through the side with the brown and the green wires,

no power to the side with the grey and green wires?

guess its time to play follow the wire :S

[spike4073]

yep deffinatly an electrical problem,

theres no current to the low gear hold switch too,,,

hmmm,,,

[macplaxton]

I'm on the move, but there are four terminals on the 4-way vacuum valve. Two are earths and two are feeds. One pair for each solenoid. The braking side of the valve is fed by either the low ratio hold switch being on or the 20bar pressure switch on the side of the brake master cylinder. At this point, my memory fails me, but the other solenoid is the overdrive side.

Usually the 4-way vacuum fails by the rubber seals going leaky, rather than the solenoid not moving and clicking. Hence chasing the wiring to it.

Good luck

[spike4073]

yeah its the overdrive side that has no power i think....the side with the smaller diameter hose to it

[spike4073]

""""" volvodspec wrote:take a look at the EMV, disconnect the thinner hose that goes to the gearbox and hold your finger against the EMV side. now increase the revs to above 1800rpm, this connection should suck noticable by your finger.

if it is not sucking, get a multimeter and hook it parralel to the green and grey wire, again increase above 1800rpm:
if you get aprox 12V- the electrics are fine and the fault is in the EMV, unscrew it and theck the rubber valve, this might be broken.
if you don't get 12V- the problem is electric, unscrew the EMV and de-solder the diode at one end, now do a resistance check on the coil (should be around 35Ω) and check the diode for blocking in one way. if both of those are fine the tachometric relay has a blown the end-transistor

if you get vacuum at the thin hose, remove the thick hose behind the EMV and blow (no compressed air!) on the thin hose that goes to the gearbox, "fill" it up and see if you can hold it up to pressure by releasing the air after aprox 10 seconds. if that happens; gearbox is fine; other possibilitys:

if the air you blow in the thin hose, it comes straight out of the thick hose. in that case a menbrame has ripped.
if the air you blow in the thin hose, get it to pressure but after 10sec there's no air blowing back out of the hose, the gearbox has a vacuumleak at the flexible seals""""""""""""






heres where im at.

with the thinner hose dissconnected and revs increased to 1800+ theres no sucking?
also dont get any current to the green/grey wires with revs increased to 1800+ current constantly remains at the other 2 wires on the other side?
when checking the wires into the micro switch as per green book guide .... when i test the red wire next to no8 wire (with circit tester) the valve clicks and i then get current to green/grey wire side of the valve and the valve operates,,,

so i temp earthed this wire to keep current to the green/grey wires and test drove it (no difference?) .... would i be right in thinking that the microswitch/relay thingy has failed?