Sorry for hijacking/diverting a little bit tom, But Anjo, how is your drivetrain putting up with the 200hp? I thought the prop set-up was struggling at around 130-150, have you broken any props/gearbox noses/bell housings etc? Thanks, Thomas...........

Now worries mate, these are all questions I will need answers to myself . Cheers

not too bad, i drive with solid engine mounts; this makes sure the engine stays in the same place when i give it the beans.
i'm also not so keen on clutchkick-drifting, i rather use the weight and engine power to slide; that also helps

but still... i broke a prop yesterday (mainly due to using launch-control )
i've had the rear bearing fall out of the bellhousing so the shaft/prop were all over the place, i've snapped a few CV-axle's and that's about it..

so it's not bad; i've mounted a brandnew M47R gearbox with welded diff and proper oil and it hold's fine up to this moment

I'd be interested to know if solid mounts are actually any good. I take it the bellhousing output is at least lined up with the gearbox? In my mind it deffinatly wouldn't be any good with a williams but yours is really light, tight poly mounts wouldn't let it move much anyway.

Given how silly thin not only the engine mounts are, but also the subframe, solid mounts scare me.

I get huge amounts of vibrations since I poly mounted my engine (my rear view mirror vibrates when I give it some) and that has to be hugely worse with a solid mount fatiguing anything it can find?

mine only vibrates at idle (the whole car does actually ) that's it! under throttle you don't notice a thing

it does require checking front and rear engine mounts every now and then as these tend to crack; i plan on strenghtening everything this winter/spring but the solid mounts will definatly stay

volvodspec wrote:biggest problem with this is that the starter teeth on the flywheel are on a different place compared to the 340's flywheel but a adaptorplate for the starter will solve that.

Missed this the first time...

Whats different about them chap? I thought Valver and 5 flywheels were the same, that being the same as 1.7 340 ones (which is the same as a 1.4 340 one?)?

the distance of the starter crown on the flywheel vs the crank, R5's crown is closer to the crank as the 340's so a 340 starter will stick engaged
don't know if they're the same as 1.7's though, i thought 1.7's was larger diameter

That could explain my starter issues...

Would also make this sexy lightened flywheel less useful I'll have to pull it all apart to get a measure, cheers dude.

easaly solvable though Chris!

just get an adaptorplate made for the starter with the correct thickness (the distance the starter crown is dis-located offcourse) this moves the starter away from the bellhousing but perfectly aligns it with the starter crown.

I reckon with the bolt pitch on a 1.7 starter there wouldn't be room mate, it can only be a mm or 2? One way to find out!