Attack2001 wrote:P.s its 8x13

And there is me hoping for a new crazy of banded brake drums...

Chris_C wrote:

Attack2001 wrote:P.s its 8x13

And there is me hoping for a new crazy of banded brake drums...

Along the corridor and up the stairs!

Thomas........................

Speedy88 wrote:What is it with tiny wheels on these things?! If you like the minilite style at least get yourself some superlites.

+1

Jak wrote:
Paint job was expensive, dont be jel.

HA HAAAA! Touche!

I'm a big fan of 13's on 300s. It just seems to work, they suit the small wheels very well. I do agree with the mahoosive arch gap when 175/50's are stretched onto 7/8j wheels. I'm running 13 x 8s with 185/55 tyres, and the profile is pretty awesome. I can and will be going lower, but for now, the arch gap is more than bearable.

Besides, if you like the wheels, who gives a crap what everyone else thinks!

I am stuck! Not sure weather to go for 13" minilites, like the ones shown in this thread, or to go for 15"s. I am going to be buying 3" lowering blocks and springs from dai so the car will be pretty low?

**I am thinking that 13"s will give too much arch gap and it will be lower to the floor but 15"s: less arch gap and higher off the floor :/

All advice needed!!!! Pics if you have them will be much appreciated!!!

Ben

Benfraser wrote:I am stuck! Not sure weather to go for 13" minilites, like the ones shown in this thread, or to go for 15"s. I am going to be buying 3" lowering blocks and springs from dai so the car will be pretty low?

**I am thinking that 13"s will give too much arch gap and it will be lower to the floor but 15"s: less arch gap and higher off the floor :/

All advice needed!!!! Pics if you have them will be much appreciated!!!

Ben

All depends on what your using the car for, how much you love the underside of your car etc etc

You can get a 300 to sit nicely without coilies on 7x13's with 195/45/13's by simply dropping it on the bump stops and putting 3 inch blocks on the back. Like so:




Or theres this, forget the back end, its on 4inch blocks which you cant do as the damper bolts touch the floor on the flat, so just look at the front arch gap.



However, you can get away with this, not personally to my liking, but its a little higher but still looks good.



When you run it decked on 13's your going to touching the floor. Not on flat or cambered roads. But when you get big bumps, speed bumps etc expect scraping to happen. For some this isn't a big deal as there's chassis rails etc but if you like the underside of your car it may not be up your street. Whether you run it the bumpstops or on coilies its still going to scrape, however with it stiffer on coilies it wont rub under hard cornering and the car wont seem as 'bouncy' going over larger bumps in the road, it will be more 'bang & crashy' haha Along with this comes the deal with the tyres, the low profile tyres are expensive, and if you go for the 195's like i did, there bloody hard to find!

Of course, if you run it lowered on 13's, but use bigger profile tyres, you fill the arch gap and raise it off the ground slightly. I personally don't like this "ballooned" look, but it might up your street? Like so:




Along with this comes cheaper tyres, less scraping, it will probably still scrape, just not so much so often.

Now moving onto 15's. Ill start with the obvious. There more 15 inch wheels available to choose from in all sorts of different styles, offsets etc. You can lower a 300 down onto 15's so you have a small arch gap, but still have it far enough off the ground that you can get over speed bumps and the like. I personally am not a fan of the 'arch gap look' as i think its silly, and cheating. The cars not low because the arch is half an inch off the tyre, as the whole point in lowering the car is to get the centre of gravity lower to the ground, not just closer to the tyre. 15's are what you would go for if you were turning your car into something beasty. As you can get wider rubber, up and over 205's (although you would need arches to run 15's over about 8j wide). You can also fit bigger brakes under the wheels for extra stopping power. Now i dont know much with regards to how low you go with 15's etc, but i believe this is 3inch rear and just off the bumpstops on the front, running 8x15 et0 rims, and i think it looks pretty savage



No idea how this is lowered, still looks good on 15's i think.




I've gone for 13's for mine for the moment, as i've got no power so im going for the "low and slow" look, however it should still be able to corner like its on rails as i've 8x13's with 195/45/13's which i think should be enough grip for a little 340 However i had to source my 195's brand new from germany, as no one else in the country had a set , long! Later on when i have the time and funds to put 400+ hp in it, i will definately be investing in some 15" inch wheels, as the 13's will just get ripped to shreds as you cant get them wide enough.

Now depending on what your using the car for, i've also been told 13's are easier to spin up if your drifting, this makes sense however i cant confirm that.

Oh, and just to throw a spanner in the works...



Thats on 14's and for me, is by far the beastiest, best looking 300 going! Love it!

Thats all Thomas........................................

Thats all Thomas........................................

Thanks for that dude its helped me see a lot! Still undecided tho... I am going to be drifting the car, but at the same time do not want to be ripping the underside of the car to pieces lol. I am thinking 13's because as you said they are easier to spin up and it will make it easier to drift. However trying to find tyres sound like a killer as i would want to go for the lower profile like 45 or 50.

Thanks for this dude

Ben..

One other thing... How are these two sitting? 3" blocks and 3" lowering springs? Then is the 340/360 on the grass on 2"? Also what do you mean sitting on the bump stops?

All depends on what your using the car for, how much you love the underside of your car etc etc

You can get a 300 to sit nicely without coilies on 7x13's with 195/45/13's by simply dropping it on the bump stops and putting 3 inch blocks on the back. Like so:

Ben..

IMHO 13's are fine, they only look gash when you run the low pro's.

I got a blow out (hit a brick!) on the way to the scrappy a few years back. They put the larger profile tyres on the rear to get me home.
In this pic the car is pre lowered i.e stock height. Even if the front was down it would still look cack.



The reason no one runs these slammed as in properly decked is you can't, they just sadly aren't a decent design to get them low low like a mk1 Golf or similar.

*Edit: Sitting on the bump stops means just that. Sitting on the rubber bump stops which are there for when the suspension fully compresses it "bumps" into the stop rather than clattering on metal.

Also see sitting on bump stops = No suspension travel at all.

I got a blow out (hit a brick!) on the way to the scrappy a few years back. They put the larger profile tyres on the rear to get me home.
In this pic the car is pre lowered i.e stock height. Even if the front was down it would still look cack.

What profiles are they? 45 on the front?

ben..

Benfraser wrote:One other thing... How are these two sitting? 3" blocks and 3" lowering springs? Then is the 340/360 on the grass on 2"? Also what do you mean sitting on the bump stops?

All depends on what your using the car for, how much you love the underside of your car etc etc

You can get a 300 to sit nicely without coilies on 7x13's with 195/45/13's by simply dropping it on the bump stops and putting 3 inch blocks on the back. Like so:

Ben..

The first two pictures, the same car, i believe is sitting just off the front bumpstops, using lowering springs, and 3inch lowering blocks on the back. The greeny/silver saloon is sitting on the bump stops on the front, and the rear is on 4inch blocks (but you cant go 4inch blocks, it doesnt work even on 13's)

The bumpstop is a safety measure on the suspension. The dampers work by using valves and oil, the oil has to move through the valves for the damper to go up and down (a crude description at best lol) However, if you start getting lairy and find a humpback bridge, the standard springs arent stiff enough to support the car when you "land' on the other side The springs will fully compress, pushing the damper right in as far as it goes. Now the problem with this is the valve in the damper is usually on the bottom of the rod that moves up and down, and without the bump stop, this valve hits the bottom of the damper casing. So imagine how hard that valve is going to hit the bottom of the damper when you 'land' on the other side. So the bump stop is like the 'last hurrah' and is there to save this valve from getting damaged. Its basically a big 'bung' if rubber around the outside of the damper rod, and when the top cup of the suspension comes down, it hits this rubber and effectively stops. Some bump stops can be on the inside of the damper, however on the volvo its on the outside.

Heres a picture, its a rear damper, but as you can see, the big rubber bit inside the spring is the bump stop



So now, people cut springs down so much, that the spring is no longer holding the car up, and it just sits on this bumpstop. Its not a good idea, nor is it good for the car, however people do do it and the cars look good sitting like it However, im not recommending it - I have heard you can buy uprated universal bumpstops aswell if you were to replace your originals

Thanks, Thomas....................

So now, when people cut there springs too much on the volvos, the spring is useless and wobbles around, and instead the top cup of the

Thanks. I was just wondering how people do the window frames when they are kind of matt black? Sprayed or could you vinyl it maybe?
Ben..

Benfraser wrote:Thanks. I was just wondering how people do the window frames when they are kind of matt black? Sprayed or could you vinyl it maybe?

p3080087rd5.jpg

Ben..

You could do either You just have to be careful not to break anything as you would have to take it all off to do it properly.

Thomas............

You could do either You just have to be careful not to break anything as you would have to take it all off to do it properly.

ohhh... someone told me it comes standard on the glt model?

Ben..

Benfraser wrote:

You could do either You just have to be careful not to break anything as you would have to take it all off to do it properly.

ohhh... someone told me it comes standard on the glt model?

Ben..

Oh, i dont know if it does or not, im just saying, you would have to be careful if you painted/wrapped your own stuff i'd personally give it ago, if something breaks that you cant fix, go and buy the stuff you would have bought in the first place

Thomas..........