Guess the problem isn't the air box.
I tried to put the bolts in the carb itself, and the problem still, the 2 of them wont fix.
Can be the carb itself or just the bolt? damn

I take it this the pancake air filter that sits on top of the carb and not the earlier one that sits beside the carb.

Sounds like they are stripped, you need to try to pad out with ptfe tape or retap and put in wider studs. Maybe you could bolt through and secure with nuts on the bottom.

Well yeah, some nuts in the down side sounds good to me. Going to try it.

Anyway, the lpg reducer died today... jeez. (i guess)
It was like, the car was over heating, so i stopped to see whats going on, found a hose out of the radiator, so i put it again on place, filled up water and lets go.
The car hardly started up, but it worked... 1km after, it felt like i had no lpg and was loosing power until it stopped. I managed to find a safe place to park.
The reducer was like PURE ICE, totally white, never seen that haha.

Is it really dead or it's because of the no water driving? I've read somewhere that the reducer have a water hose.

" Well I think the answer in all these cases is that the reducer has frozen up, or is not getting any heat from the engine coolant. It takes a lot of energy to turn liquid propane into a vapour, some of you may remember this being called Latent Heat of Vapourisation from your school physics or chemistry lessons. ".

So, can it be still usable? Can i start it up on lpg tomorrow ?

Reducer is working.

Haynes says that valve clearances are 0.20 intake, 0.40 exhaust ... but the technical pdf that i downloaded here in volvo 300 says : 0.15 intake, 0.20 exhaust .

lol . So...?

Well it's obvious. Use the Volvo Green book.

0.20 or 0.40, you could drive a bus through that gap!!

Honestly, the best thing to do with a Haynes manual is use it to support for a wobbly table leg. If it is too thick, then use some of the pages as firelighters.

Ok. I'll change the clearances again, to the correct value, 0.15 intake, 0.20 exhaust.

Anyway, the car is not running any good.
Somewhere, there is a oil leak that runs into the exhaust manifold, and that means big smoke in my front...

I did removed the rubber hose from the oil breather and used a pvc transparent hose to a oil catch can. The oil leak isnt comming from there.
A friend of mine, mechanic said there has no washer in one of the top valve cover nuts... Done that, isn't from there.
The valve gasket is NEW, and this time i did removed it again and used some sealant both sides to avoid any leak.

Problem still there.
The area between the carb and the intake manifold is all dirty of oil, it's a mess guys :! can't figure out this shit... ffs.
Help me in this one, how is this happening?

Of course, the car is running badly. Lack of power, low revs it's strugling ( i guess rich mixture bcause of the oil?)

Some BEFORE PICS:






After (I was like, yehhh finally job done, but it was a piece of crap).



Then problems started to appear.


The only think i thought was the valve gasket, so i did use sealant now.

Let's paint this shit with oil time. It's a mess





SMOKE lol.



More oil lakes and rivers.



Here in this pic, you can see a big amount of oil in that section

My first thought seeing the photos is the rocer cover gasket leaking.

I would wash it all down to remove all the oil and then you will have a better chance of seeing where it is coming from.

Yeah, looks as though it might be bowed out in the middle from overtightening the bolts.

http://youtu.be/hspooQNlON4

My car has a similar or the same issue that this E36.
What is the most possible cause?
I'd like to change rotor arm, distribuitor cap, plugs and spark plugs. What should i look first? Also, my 1.4 is LPG, the plugs can be the same right?

thanks