Number 47 wrote:(ahem, cough) import.

ZV or modern county series?

macplaxton wrote:

Number 47 wrote:(ahem, cough) import.

ZV or modern county series?

ZV I think.

A few pics of the rust, the wheelarch. There was a rubber grommet/bung in here by the look of it.




And the sill.






Had a good poke around underneath tonight with a torch, the rest of the car seems solid, most of he nuts and bolts are very clean, looks a dream to work on.

Number 47 wrote:ZV I think.

Looking like at least ZV 35303 or there abouts. I'm guessing at the rate they go at in Co. Galway, it'll be only about 2 higher. If going for a county, I think they are at 83-G-16802.

Hi mate.
West coast. Lovely part of the world. I remember being along
that coast line as a child on holiday. There used to be a bloke in Co Mayo
with a 300. Don't know if he is still about.
Cheers Mark.

The sill looks fairly localised, but am I right in saying the jacking point is not there? You are going to need to remove most of the sill in the area and build it back out 1 layer at a time, aswell as build a new jacking point.

The inner wheel arch looks like the rear. That is also a difficult repair, I've done one of mine (missing bung caused it I think). The 'box' section will need to be removed (cut and the top part depaneled) and the wheel arch exposed inside the car (remove all trim), I think you are looking at a dinner plate sized repair in the shape of a dome, a bit of a 2D curve.

@Ride on.
Thanks for the advice, the jacking point is fine, that split sill starts about 50mm forward of the rear jacking point, the jack point is fine. I used it tonight to raise that rear end up. The wheel is sitting at a bad angle, wheel bearing seems tight but the camber is around twice that of the other side. I understand this car has some degree of negative camber but this is obviously wrong and my spirit level agrees. Same side as the clunk is coming from.

As for the rust. I've poked and prodded at it a bit and it doesn't seem to extend too far inside. It looks as though someone has jacked the car on the sill causing damage. Possibly due to the jack handle being AWOL. The wheel arch is the rear bung missing. It gives me hope that the rest of the car is in good order. It certainly looks fine with a quick visual.

At the moment I'm waiting for someone to collect the ride on mower from my garage, can't get her in yet.

It really pisses me off when so called professionals jack up car on the sills I ha a brand new Berlingo that a either Kwik Fart or Farceula ! jacked up on the sills and completely flattened the jack locating points!!

When my car was at the panelbeaters recently I caught them jacking the rear up on the diff GRRRR I said to them that they will only get away with that the once.

Good luck with the project BTW hope the rust repairs dont put you off.

Is there a consensus on the best place to jack from so as to get stands under the jacking points?

Rear axle tube, I generally put stands on that too unless I'm working on the suspension, when they go to the jacking points. That way the parts that normally take the cars weight still take the cars weight.... I've seen too many rotten sills on 300s

Its vaguely possible the bearing is damaged/collapsed. Jack it up and see if the bearing is loose. Either that or the axle is bent.

There is a good post on Wheel bearing replacement, depending on what type you have.

Well, I've found my knocking noise.







2 new shocks it is then, it wasn't apparent until I got it up in the air.

Was looking for shocks on google and came across a post on driftworks recommending landy shocks. Re-oiling the front with ep90 etc.

Opinions please? Does this stiffen the ride a lot? I understand it is the front shocks from a landy 90/110. Any variant?

I'm replacing the rears anyway, willing to give this a shot. Are all the front shocks re-oilable or is it just the originals? haven't looked at the front yet but i know one was replaced from the service history.

All opinions welcome.
cheers.

When I lived in Eire and imported my 360GLS I got a 'county' plate (84-W-346), not an old style one. This was back in 1997, but I can't imagine they've changed the system since then.

Number 47 wrote:Was looking for shocks on google and came across a post on driftworks recommending landy shocks. Re-oiling the front with ep90 etc.

Opinions please? Does this stiffen the ride a lot? I understand it is the front shocks from a landy 90/110. Any variant?

I'm replacing the rears anyway, willing to give this a shot. Are all the front shocks re-oilable or is it just the originals? haven't looked at the front yet but i know one was replaced from the service history.

All opinions welcome.
cheers.

Hi mate,
I've spent a year or so using these cars for drifting. You can go down this route but it's only really worth it with a lowered car and welded diff. Bearing in mind that it will not be "stiff" as you'd like to imagine it would be. It will be horrible, crashy and bouncy for daily use. The adjustable dampers available from on here are worth the money, even if you just do the rears. Failing those just some NOS dampers would probably be quite nice. Again though it depends what you're aiming to use the car for - drifting, daily or fast road car?

V6 Man wrote:When I lived in Eire and imported my 360GLS I got a 'county' plate (84-W-346), not an old style one. This was back in 1997, but I can't imagine they've changed the system since then.

Aye, but 1997 minus 30 years would have been 1967, so you didn't have the option of anything other than a county plate. If it's over 30, there is the option. If it's on a county plate, it can be later changed to a ZV, but not the other way round. ZV was brought in around 1993 and is an "unused" Dublin allocation.