It's a GLE Injection model and is a UK car.
I think it's probably the ISV as I thought it got better when the car warmed up - but it doesn't!
The gear change seems okay after actually driving it on the road!

Leaky cold start, or knackered thermal time switch, pressure regulator maybe.

Also FYI the injections have a small issue with the fuel pump fuse clips behind the battery. If you ever have sudden power loss check there first, they usually just need a tweak.

Cool, cheers for the tips man.
I'll give it a service shortly and sort out a few niggles.
There's a couple of strange noises but since it's my only working car at the moment I can't afford to be stripping bits off to find out why.
I'll sort the 340 and then give this a good look over underneath.

Need a new wing obviously but that can wait.

I'm having some issues with rear beam centring on this, hopefully it's not bent!

That looks really good, definitely lowering my 360 2" now.

What is the ride like?

I'm going to be using the 2" blocks and classicswede 2" 200lb? Springs I got from you.

Ride is okay on this, considering I just cut the front springs.
I wish I had kept those springs, I've just cut two coils off the front
Those springs I sold you were fine on my 340 with standard shocks anyway.

What do you mean 'problem with the rear centering'? If the back axle is not centred I don't think it will be the axle that is bend. The springs hold it in place.

If you are feeling instability at the back, it is more likely the axle rotation is not correctly adjusted on the radius arm. This arm is to keep the axle orientation, as it features negative camber vertically. If its not correctly adjusted (or with lowering you have run out of adjustment) you will get toe-in/out at the back.

Nah what I mean is, the wheels don't centre in the wheel arch.
I think I need to shorten the torque arm a bit because I can't seem to get the axle in the middle of the spring on that side.

I didn't have this problem on my 340, I loosened off the torque arm and it moved to the end of the slot, which left the axle sitting in the middle.
On the 360, it sits a little further back because the torque arm is at it's full length.

The axle should be assembled first, then the radius arm (or whatever you want call it) added and adjusted to get the axle box horizontal. For standard suspension add about 25kg to the boot then tighten, I have a small Labrador in my tool kit, which is useful for this . I don't know how to do it for V. lowered.

I'm not sure the arm has any torque reaction or anti-tramp properies, the de-dion tube is a bit ususual. Its quite different to RWD live axles as they cannot have negative camber. If you can't get it adjusted you need to modify the rod, there are some threads mentioning this needs to be done for lowering.

derskine wrote:Ride is okay on this, considering I just cut the front springs.
I wish I had kept those springs, I've just cut two coils off the front
Those springs I sold you were fine on my 340 with standard shocks anyway.

Haha hindsight is a wonderful thing

Are you going to fit shortened dampers to the front?

That's reassuring to now the ride is good, I have the golf for the boneshaking ride and don't want the 360 to be the same.

Cheers Ride_On, I'll take the torque arm/tramp bar/stabiliser bar, whatever you call it off and then centre the axle.

I'm not planning on fitting shortened dampers any time soon, this is fine for now to be honest!
The ride in my 340 is bone rattling and it has the same, cut springs, standard (albeit gas) shocks, but it's also poly bushed which I think is a major contributing factor in that.

Beam centring seems okay now.
Outside temp has dropped a bit recently and the car is getting hard to start in the morning.
I reckon this might be something to do with either the thermal time switch or the cold start injector.
I'll test the injector tonight and the switch when I find my multimeter.

Not idling crap once warmed up now, changed thermostat - heating also much better.
Still issues with cold starting though.
Cleaned throttle body out last night, will clean the maf with some electrical contact cleaner too.
Still not investigated cold start injector or time switch but I'll take a look at these over the weekend.

Changed the steering coupling today which made a nice difference to the handling.
It was a pig to get off, not sure how anyone would manage it without a 4 post!!

Also think I've found the culprit to the pulling to one side when accelerating/changing gear.
The passengers diff output flange has a load of play in it, so I've bought an open diff to fit.
My theory is perhaps this side isn't transmitting as much power, and with the diff welded is causing a bit of an imbalance.