You'll need
-ratchet or breaker bar
-extension bar
-think it's a 23mm socket for the steering wheel nut -11mm spanner for the vac nipple
-phillips screwdriver. I usually have a stubby one for the metal plate screws and a normal length one for the cluster screws

bogbasic wrote: 22 Apr 2020 04:49 am Not really had a problem removing the speedo-cable from the instrument panel - its more of a problem getting it back on again, but still not too bad. I take it you are also planning on removing the steering wheel - I never managed to do anything useful with it left on. Its a bit delicate removing the blue circuit layer from the back of the instrument panel but again not too bad if you do it very carefully. Also, use an air-duster on the dials and the see-through cover before putting it all back together - there's nothing more annoying than getting everything back on the car and then noticing that you've left a big piece of dust in full view - took it all apart again once to cure just this problem. Bit of a bore aligning the steering-wheel on the straight-ahead position afterwards, but its never taken more than one or two attempts to fix it.

Quick question, why did you take the plastic circuit board off?

Thanks Logan...and all...
Much appreciated.
Its posts like these which show the benefit of a forum. I am sure others will benefit from this information, not just myself.
Will post up how I get on when I get a quiet day to get the install done.
Cheers
Dave

Quick question, why did you take the plastic circuit board off?

I did that to swap the speedo which wasn't working. My post was misleading, the blue plastic circuit layer stays attached to the white back-plate, but I think its fair to say its a bit of a fiddle getting the plate off the back of the instruments, and on again without introducing dirt, scratches, etc. I've not done an ambient temperature sensor thing, but guess Tasman will have to do something similar. I've got to clean oil out of my daily 1.7 speedo since the needle wobbles at certain speeds, so I'll be trying all this again in a few weeks or months.

Hey, check this out:



That screwed-on chip on the right-hand side with three pins going into it is the voltage stabiliser. I only have the Haynes manual which doesn't mention it (I think) but if your petrol and temperature gauge needles start slowly going up and down, it'll be that at fault, or, as in my case, the pins can break.

Was always wondering what that was for. Good to know, cheers for that mate

Hi Jon, Thanks for the updated info. Useful to know about the voltage stabiliser.
When you say about the speedo wobble, is the solution to run some light oil down the speedo cable, or is there another solution ?

Cheers Dave

I thinks it's more of a case of lining the physical cable in the sleeve up with it's hole in the back. I can get mine roughly seated and secured and it'll shake around, but if i reach up under the dash and shift it i can make it better or worse.