Erm, I think you just about covered it Mac

Just one other quickie thing you can do, the rev counter is directly connected to the coil primary so if you get a non-start, you can tell if the Renix ECU is working/triggering the coil, if the needle flicks gently up and down as you crank the engine over. That means you can isolate the fault to the HT part of the circuit (including the coil itself) rather than the Renix ECU.

Just been out to check mine and it says 411 A

Lemme get my book and I'll look up what that's supposed to be on.

OK that comes up in my book as one for a B200E post 1987 so that's correct.

Yup, you are right Shimon, Fake is an '89 B172k, seemingly there are two renix's for the B172 as well, they changed them at '85 (I'm guessing the retardedness is to run unleaded???)

The potting resin on the back is perhaps there to keep out tinkering hands, too. The only way to remove it is to 'machine' it out veeeeery carefully with a Dremel or similar.

Just put Megajolt on it instead if you want to DIY map your ignition...it's cheap enough!

cheers

James

cheers all,

know all about that areas weather, i only live 5 minutes up the road, stonham?.

regards

Hi all,

Pettaw - excellent point using rev counter !

Ali / Pettaw - Sorry, my type list wasn't complete. Add the following:-
B13.4E (1989 onwards) = 402 (was this ever available?)
B14.3E = 401 (not in UK)
B14.4E = 402 (from 1985 has change up indicator)
B14.4E = 412 (1987ish on) Retarded by 4 deg. to run on unleaded.
B14.4S (not UK) = 402
B172K (1985-1986)= 410
B172K (post 87) = 415
B19A = 404
B200E (1985-1986)= 405 or 408 (408 has engine speed limiter)
B200E (post 87) = 411
B200EA (Nordic market) = 441
B200F = 411
B200K (1985-1986) = 406 or 407 (from 1985 has change up indicator) (407 has speed limiter.)
B200K (post 87 ) = 414

Any more anyone ? Be nice to get a complete list.

Foggy - your right. it's there to keep us out !!

Vart - Stonham, I know it well - at least one V3M member local to me - I shall have to be carefull what I say! 5mins is about it even with the 50 limit on the 140.

Mac.

[Edited to confirm and completed - Andy]

Wow this is some good info.
Mac do you happen to know the different maps for the renix units?
I'm looking for a map that will give more advance on the 1.7 unit.

Dai, I've not got the full maps, but I've got numbers for the advance at 900 and 3000 RPMs, with the vacuum advance hose disconnected.

The early B172K unit will give 2 degrees more at 3000, is that enough. Otherwise the 1.4 units give 6 degrees more at 3000, but no change at idle, so what shape the curves are is anybody's guess

The B200 units all are more advanced but probably have completely different curves.

Hello 'classic',

I don't have too much I'm afraid - what I do have I have typed up and I post below - hope it helps !



I never have been able to get full maps but managed to get the 401/402/404 stuff from Renix direct, some years ago.

All the best Mac.

Does anyone know what is the reference of the renix in a B18K Volvo 440?


I have a '90 B172K with the correct renix (415), and I have a spare one that I took of a 440 B18K, and today I see and it is a 402..

So.. will it be a B14 renix? Or the B18K in the 440 have this Renix?

Dai, if you want to have a play with an pre '85 renix, I have the one that Fake was running on in the loft... I'll put it in the "Chris' reserve fund for buying suspension bits" along with those green books if you want

Hi everyone, new here .
Mac, found your posts about renix very helpful. Recently got myself an 89 360 GLT and it always takes a bit of starting when cold. Sounds like a weak spark. After checking the plugs, HT leads and distributor got my multimeter on the coil. The secondary windings show 6.5 k ohms (outside the range). Could this be causing my problem? I'm only a poor student so will only splash out on a new coil if i need to.

Cheers, Giles.

How do you mean it takes a bit of starting? If its the 'fire up but a bit spluttery and refuses to idle smoothly for anything up to 30 seconds' trick then that's usual 360 GLT stuff I'm afraid.

The trick is not to rev it, let the damn thing splutter and then iron itself out. On my red GLT I have to blip the throttle when it first starts to stop it stalling, other than that I just leave it be until it clears. On my blue one, never even had to rev it.

We're working on a reason, but its the injection system massively overfuelling for the first 30 secs or so on a cold start.

I would say your coil is probably OK, but you could take it out and give the terminals a good clean. Its held in by those torx screws on the Renix unit. Don't dismantle the vacuum advance though.

Why does my car sometimes do this... I turn the ignition key, it cranks normally, theres fuel but Renix doesn't give any spark. Then I wait awhile, turn the ignition key but with parking lights turned on. (Switch position 1) Then it starts fine. Wtf? It shouldn't be the battery as it has enough juice to crank the engine for a long time etc... and it doesn't sound strained when I do it. There's just no spark, otherwise it would start fine. It has done that randomly a few times now, and it has always started when I start it with parking lights on.. Weird.