I think I've only smelt a burning clutch once, when I was with my driving instructer. Not a nice smell

I've never got burning clutch on a 360... but a Renault Clio 1.2 16v hire car I did The funny thing is, I got massive clutch burn and wheelspin everytime I pulled off sharply!?

My driviong instructer had a Megan, so blame the Frence

The guy who invented fire probably drove a french car (from Top Gear)

MJ wrote:I think I've only smelt a burning clutch once, when I was with my driving instructer. Not a nice smell

are you sure it was the clutch you smelt or had your driving instructor perhaps had an accident as a result of your driving lol

(only joshing )

har har har

lol, my spelling was appalling yesterday, I'd better fix it before you and Dekay start arguing

And my driving is very good, if not a bit slow...

I had a lovely clutch smell the other week on the Vario without realising why it wasnt engaging untill 2-3000rpm...

I later realised it was cos I was pulling off with change-down operating (with reversed inner/outer chamber connections!)

...oops!

EDIT: What I meant to say was... it appeared it wasn't engaging - as it has the affect of pulling away in top gear - thus burning the clutch!

Well........ firstly, thank you to Andy, aka Pettaw. He came over at the weekend to help sort the variomatic properly after our first investigation showed us the clutch was badly worn, meaning it wasn't engaging until the revs were fairly high. As it has been pointed out, it appears as though the muppets in charge of doing the MOT on the car, managed to rev it in Park, and destroyed a 10500 mile clutch, meaning it lost drive during the MOT. We had hoped to adjust it with shims, however we felt it was too far gone, and really needed checking, along with the flywheel, as the muppets claimed they'd had it glowing red hot.

So, I managed to track down a variomatic clutch kit, which on Saturday we went about fitting. All was going well, removed everything, and had it all going back together in no time really. We found the clutch was pretty badly worn, it might have been savable, but it really wasn't worth the effort and had needed checking.

The flywheel looked fine, just slightly polished, but not damaged luckily. We only encountered problems when it came to getting the propshaft back on! We'd been able to remove it easily, however refitting was more of a problem due to a lack of space. However, armed with a fine adjustment tool, and some outside of the box thinking, it was refitted!

Sunday was spent removing all of the kit around the belts, and then getting the belts off. The secondary pulleys were somewhat stiff to say the least, and the DIY method was not going to work! So we resorted to plan B, a hooge woodworking F cramp and some blocks of MDF which were used to spread the pulley without damaging it.

After achieving this, we went to fit the new belts, and now able to directly compare the new to the old, a major problem was spotted, the new belts weren't for a 300 as believed, infact they are for a DAF, one that isn't the same as the 340! So, sadly the old belts had to go back on for now, they aren't majorly perished, no teeth are missing, but it won't be long, and we thought we'd do it seen as we had belts. So, at least we now know how to do it, it's not a bad job tbh, and when we've got some proper belts that will be done.

Andy adjusted the valve clearances, adjusted the choke and set the carb up.

The simple task of an oil change turned into a nightmare, as someone had put a FRAM oil filter on the car. Now, from our previous dealings with Fram oil filters, I'm not a fan, as on my GLT, the previous owner had had a Fram oil filter fitted, when we removed it, it was nearly empty, it hadn't retained any oil, despite being recently run. Anyway, this one caused us some serious grief on the 340, as it didn't clear the powersteering pump and it's bracket and pipework. Being an aftermarket kit fitted at nearly new, where the B14 should have loads of room around the oil filter, on this one it's a bit cramped. So, this meant removing the alternator and power steering pump. THe monkeys who replaced the filter last had bent the brackets, meaning nothing went back easily, especially the alternator. So a quick job turned into a blood, sweat but no tears, just swearing session.

The oil in the gearbox was also changed and the brakes were checked and bled. Nice tyres fitted, and the car was ready to go.

So, the car runs as sweet as a nut now, everything engages perfectly, drives smoothly and feels like new, firm and in timewarp condition. It's amazingly clean underneath, seen as we've been crawling about looking at the underside of the car most of the weekend we know for sure that it's remarkable.

Well, it's ready for an MOT now. I'm honestly going to feel guilty adding milage to this car, however cars are there to be used, this one has been saved from being scrapped, and it will be cared for. It'll do more damage letting it stand and rot, parts will seize and perish etc, than to use it and keep it well maintained.

***RANT WARNING***
Twice today, it was remarked, what are you trying to make one good one from three? Referring to the two Volvo 300's around my workshop and the one we were working on. Sheer ignorance I'm afraid. They are now three incredibly well looked after, well maintained, cherished cars that will certainly outlast the car they've just bought. They are cheap and satisying motoring, and we can actually work on them ourselves, which is an amazingly satisfying feeling and good fun. My good mate Andy and myself were able to have a good weekend working on the car. I've made other friends through V3M, so IMO, to think that because out cars are old means they are no good is utter rubbish. Also, why is it always assumed it ahs broken down, or it no good if you're seen working on it or have the bonnet up? It's called maintenance! And we can actually do it ourselves, rather than pay someone else to do it, possibly to a poor standard as well!

********HERE ENDETH THAT RANT!********

Some pics from the weekend.


In the workshop up on axle stands.




One knackered clutch, the result of the incompetence of an MOT testing station we believe, resulting in Mac getting onto the VOSA and now there should be an advisory note not to rev Volvo 340 CVT's in the MOT.


The other side.


A quick line up at the end of the day. L-R My 340 CVT, Andy's 360 GLE SE, my 360 GLT.



Once again many thanks to Andy, couldn't have done it without you mate, I learned a great deal this weekend. All being well the car should go through the MOT when I find time to get one booked. Also thanks Mac for your CVT guide, as that was a very useful addition to the Volvo green books, meaning we had all the info available to us.

Sorry for the long post.

Pete

Grand stuff guys, good luck with the MOT Pete!

Yeah, what a marathon, I must be mad, but was good fun and interesting to work on the 'rubber band transmission.' So it was my pleasure and no problem helping get a rather special car resurrected

'That bl(*dy oil filter/ $%%$% The most difficult job on the whole car was a 10 minute afterthought.....whilst we got it up on jacks might as well change that oil. I've got a spare oil filter in the boot.......damn thing.

I also learnt a better way of de-seizing brake caliper screws I'd always done WD-40 and then heat, but its much better to use the heat first and THEN put the WD on

Only very slight issue is the rear brake cylinders, one side is possibly leaking very slightly and the other one is partially seized, but that may well free off/reseal when driving it. Not expensive/difficult though, if it needs two new cylinders at the back. Surprisingly all the handbrake stuff was completely free

It drives like an absolute dream, the engine is as sweet as anything and the suspension is so firm, the steering tight, everything is as it should be, rather than sloppy like so many of the 300s are. Its just like Pete commented, a time warp car.

Ahh nice work guys! Glad to hear the vario is very nearly back on the road!

EDIT: Crack out the Dinitrol!

resealing of brake cilinder is higly unlikely. just replace them, might save you the pair of brake shoes.


the DAF belts you have are too long I guess? then its the daf 44/55 size.


had a little luck with the clutch i see, stories containing 'red hot' usually contain a part where it says 'flywheel and clutch totally gone' as well


good luck at the MOT (stay with it while they test it )

The new belts were actually too short and too narrow! So I'm assuming they're a 66, but I seemed to think they shared their belts with the 340, could be wrong. So if anyone wants a new set of belts........ let me know. I'll find the code on them too.

Yeah, I always stay with the car at the MOT if I can, I know the garage and they are pretty good, and the bloke has respect for the 300 series and knows I like them!

It was lucky with the clutch I suppose, as Mac said to me, they probably over exaggerated, in a bid to get the car scrapped, probably so I wouldn't have it and they could have the stereo they fitted in it previously back out!

Pete

too narrow as well, then they are definately DAF 'A-type'

thats the smallest car range, runs from the first daf 600 (1958/59) to the DAF 33 (up to 1974, alongside the larger 2- and 4 cilinder versions)

You might want to contact the daf owners club about your pair of belts. might find someone willing to trade for a DAF 66/ Volvo 66 / Volvo 300 series set (all exactly the same size)

As you have experienced taking off the belts isn't difficult when you find a good way to spread the discs without scratching them.

Ahhh cheers Wouter, your knowledge of the vario system is useful as usual mate! They are indeed A type belts, well worked out from the description. The full code, A528886 DAF 25. Yeah, if someone wanted to do a swap that'd be ace, I'd prefer genuine Volvo one's as opposed to any other make. Dai assured me Eurocar parts were doing a special offer on belts, but as I say, I'd prefer Volvo ones.

You're right, we've figured out a good way of removing the belts that works without damaging anything, and next time it should be a lot easier and quicker.

Pete

the original 'special tools' for the disc spreading were factory-bodged from a then-current Bilstein car jack


later they invented another type (C-clamp) that used the same kind of threading as those furniture clamps. it had a square so you could put a air wrench on it