mac wrote:Red hot metal + WD40 = fire, smoke, fumes (lots of them), thunderstorms, stillborn lambs, hamsters and geese living together - etc.etc.Quite fun really,Mac.

" there was some understandable concern amongst the V3M membership when Mac finally revealed his new look "

at the moment if he could help I would take it

Well I already said I never seen anyone attempt that little party-trick before...but a little oil-smoke never killed anyone (ahem...). Guess it would be pretty useless.

What I was trying to point out is that just heating the metal a bit with a burner doesnt help much, you really need some serious heat in it to get some results. If you bring your downpipe+header to some garage that is used to fixing old cars they could probably help you out soon enough. The local turkish/maroccan guys that work for the wrecking yard around here also seem to be familiar with the helpfull properties of a good gas torch.

Just to continue the diversion (and show Redline was correct) a pic showing Mac about to embark upon a series of difficult diagnostic tests.



Mrs Mac.

mac wrote:Just to continue the diversion (and show Redline was correct) a pic showing Mac about to embark upon a series of difficult diagnostic tests.



Mrs Mac.

If THAT worked I would take that help also

I am now scarred for life with the image of Mac playing with his ball !!!!

I'm having similar woes, except that I'm having a far more pathetic problem...I can't remove ANY of the exhaust. Ryan has a blowtorch, but he locked it in his shed then went on holiday. I ranted a lot about this on Turbobricks, but felt far too ashamed to own up to such incompetance here

cheers

James

Do you want to remove the unit in one piece or is it an angle grinder job?

I want to remove it piece by piece, and put it back together with a different downpipe (with the WB bung welded on). The idea is to loosen it all up so that I can take it off easily when I start 'tinkering' in a few weeks.

cheers

James

Foggy on yours, have you tried hammering a large flat blade screwdriver in the gaps of the exhaust? You can straighten it out afterwards!!
Adam

Nope, but that ended in tears when doing Nessy's one. Heat is the answer, but I don't have access to heat until Ryan gets back, and I'm not spending cash on another blow torch when I know he has a perfectly good one

cheers

James

I know this will sound mad - but on my 360GL I ran the engine for 10 minutes or so and then removed it (I had some damn good gloves mind you)

Just take the whole header+downpipe out (if at all possible on a v300..) and take it to a DIY garage or something similar...have them undo the damn bolts for a few quid and be done with it. if your replacing the downpipe you could also just cut it off and then take the header + downpipe flange somewhere for help.

We just removed a complete exhaust from Pete's parts car. Some observations...

Getting the car well up in the air really helps
Heat + WD40 helps a lot - Andy isn't wrong there
That rear manifold > DP nut is a complete bugger!

cheers

James

I'm in agreement with Foggy! From under the car with it in the air, a second person is quite useful above the car, in order to help keep the socket on the nut, as with the UJ and extensions, pressure from below results in some dodgy angles and the socket slipping.

Pete