When I connect a current to the solenoid the black button at the end does not retract but if I push it in it stays in. It should retract by itself don't you think?

yep, that sound pretty knackered...

What sort of supply are you using to try and retract it? After seeing someone try it with a 9V battery before, I had to ask, don't take offence

at 9 volt it works, but only if you hold it upside down

A trap for young players! When I was ordering a new solinoid the nice man from the Carburetor Exchange pointed out that it is designed to work in situ where the black button is contracted about 2 mm. Sure enought, it does.

Ordered the new float set from Renualt dealer in Rotterdam on the weekend for Euro45.

west kensington-rotterdam? do you work on the ferry?

No but I use the HSS quite often, its a good service. Unfortunately its days are numbered.

I have made 3 attempts to fix my carburation problem.
1. Used rebuild kit obtained from The Carburettor Exchange in Leighton Buzzard. Did not include electrical heating part. Cost £25 Result: No change.
2. Weighed float set (12g) and bought new float set (6g) from Renaullt (part 77 01 031 047) Cost £35 Result: Internal flooding cured but still rough flutuating idle, dead spot on acceleration, stalling and refusing to restart.
3. Sent carbuttor to Carburettor Exchange for rebuild.
Diagnosed as warped. Cost £135 Result: Idle constant, dead spot on accelleration goes when engine fully warmed up. By that I mean not just the coolant but the actual carby body.
Next step: Search for electrical heating part. Any ideas?


Next step: Search for electrical heating element

Wow, you are having some bad luck with that carb Can you not sent it back it its nnot working as it should and it's supposedly rebuilt?

Other than that, not sure how useful the heater is on the carb, mine I havn't had connected since I fitted the solex, and it doesn't do much. I'll try connecting mine up, and see what a difference it makes, might save you a few quid if it doesn't do much!

carb base warping is very common, actually I assumed you checked this first and the only problem was the flooding.

the flatspot on warmup might well be solved by fitting a replacement thermistor.... on my 1.7 I had the same problem after everything else was in order.

the car ran really economically, but the slight hesitation when cold was still there. I have never been able to find a replacement thermistor, and sold the car a few months later.

maybe you'll have more luck

Greetings Wouter

So what does the thermister do? If it is only a thermal switch that turns off when warm then is there also a heating coil there somewhere? Also, what torque for carby to manifold bolts?

torque of the bolts is 7 Nm. (which is unbelieveably slack.. it only compresses the spring washers a bit)

the thermistor is a ceramic component that has an electrical resistance, which varies with its temperature.

at a low temperature, the resistance is low as well, this allows electric current to flow through the ceramic material, which warms up as a consequence. the part of the carb surrounding the thermistor will warm up as well.

at higher temperatures (caused by either the electric current, or engine heat) the resistance increases, which limits the current through the ceramic material. in practice this is gradual.

Greetings Wouter

Hiya, the torque for the long bolts from carb to manifold is 14Nm. I think the carb top nuts are about 7Nm.

Can you get the preheating element from Volvo? Cost isn't too cheap, about 25-30 quid, if they're still available :S

went to ask once, n/a....

volvo part number of the thermistor ass'y is 3343820. It is called a 'pre-heating relay'

While at this page I also looked up the Volvo number of the Float:
1270007

still have to look into the Renault number of both these items..