Page 2 of 4

Posted: 06 Jun 2007 01:47 pm
by SteveP
Your linkage could be buggered - it makes a huge difference to gearchange when it's working correctly :D Should be pretty much no 'slack' atall

Posted: 06 Jun 2007 02:33 pm
by shimon340
nice!!

Posted: 06 Jun 2007 05:10 pm
by Roop
SteveP wrote:Your linkage could be buggered - it makes a huge difference to gearchange when it's working correctly :D Should be pretty much no 'slack' atall
I do get lots of clanking and clunking from behind me when I change gear... I assumed it was normal! Can the linkage be adjusted?

Posted: 07 Jun 2007 01:04 am
by foggyjames
Clanking and clunking?.....normal?......did you formally own a Ford? sm56

There's not really any adjustment in it. It'll most likely either be a worn mount (or any number of things on the rear end, to be fair), or a snapped linkage. The latter will need welding back together to be 'tight', but shouldn't stop you changing gear.

cheers

James

Posted: 07 Jun 2007 02:27 pm
by germ
How quick should the gear changes be?

they seam pritty legerly. go in alright but seam slow if rushed no chance to get in gear...

but then maybe i have no oil in my gearbox....or maybe its sludge

Cheers
will

Posted: 07 Jun 2007 04:26 pm
by petefarrell360
Because of the way the linkage works it is a little agricultural and slowish due to how far back the gearbox is, but it works and rushing it won't really help. It's possible to do a slick and quick gear change in a 300 with a decent condition linkage, just don't force it.

Pete

Posted: 07 Jun 2007 11:04 pm
by Roop
Thanks, chaps. I don't find the gears are that slow or difficult to engage as long as I try and match the revs between gears and use smooth, gentle actions :oops:.
Listening more carefully, the majority of the noises happen if I come off the clutch a bit too quickly, especially at low revs. Seems to work okay for what I want to do, so I'm not intending to sort it out unless something breaks. I was really just trying to point out that Josh's 340 is really nice and smooth to drive. :)

Posted: 08 Jun 2007 06:06 pm
by MJ
foggyjames wrote:Clanking and clunking?.....normal?......did you formally own a Ford? sm56
Heh, my mum drove my uncles old Escort (late 80's model) a few weeks ago and wondered what all the rattling in the back was. She opened the boot later expecting to find a box of cans for recycling or something, but it was empty :lol:

Posted: 08 Jun 2007 07:17 pm
by A M R
hmm yeh 1st and 2nd are a bit of a pain in the arse, which means acceleration becomes crap - but the ratios are shite so its crap anyway.

after 2nd, the gears are all nice and smooth and you can shift pretty quick and then once it hits 4k in 3rd, its like 'VTAK just kicked in y0!' and it flies...

Posted: 09 Jun 2007 12:41 am
by foggyjames
The syncros on 1st are usually pretty fussy (i.e. tricky to downshift at a decent speed), but a sticky 2nd is usually indicative of something up.

The ratios would be fine if the car had some power...but it hasn't....silly grandpa spec cars :-D

cheers

James

Posted: 09 Jun 2007 06:21 pm
by Roop
AMR... are you heel-toeing? I find downshift into second is a piece of cake as long as you get the revs up first.

Posted: 09 Jun 2007 08:13 pm
by A M R
im talking about when upshifting from 1st gear into 2nd. its a painin the arse if youre trying to shift quickly because it really doesnt want to do it. you have to give it a lot of force. if youre shifting normally then its fine.

heel-toeing down to 2nd is no problem. smooth as you like mate.

Posted: 09 Jun 2007 08:32 pm
by SteveP
How are people heel/toe-ing? Ive found the brake/accelerator pedals too close and the steering wheel too close to my legs to have any attempt at it :(

Posted: 09 Jun 2007 08:55 pm
by MJ
Well it's really left side of toe on the brake, and right side of the middle of the foot on the throttle. It's quite tricky and takes some practice, but it's very rewarding when you can get it right and do a heal and toe and double clutch in one smooth motion.

In fact I was in the process of doing that a week or two ago, got distracted and ended up getting second gear without using the clutch :lol: I was in third and breaking gently, clutch in, shift to neutral, clutch up, slight rise in the revs whilst still braking, then I forgot to push the clutch in before shifting to second. I thought it felt slightly harder to shift than normal, but not by much, then I realised what I'd done. Proves how much easier gear changes are if you rev match properly ;)

The most important thing to remember with heal and toe, is that the brake is far more important than the throttle. If your foot slips of the throttle, ah well, if you miss the brake, it could be nasty. Make sure it's well covered. You don't need to to be racing for it to be useful, try it when approaching a gentle turn, and you want to drop a gear.

Posted: 09 Jun 2007 11:11 pm
by Ali
300s are actually one of the easiest cars i've done it in, others are just impossible. Really can't remember what its like with the standard seat and steering wheel but with a lower position in a bucket its pretty damn easy, but yeah, don't attempt it the first time with someone behind you as its likely to end in you flying forwards as you press the brake harder when you stab the throttle!