Why is making your own brakelines dangerous its just doing what the manufacturer does yourself. You can buy kits to make em its a bit fiddly but not difficult.

Matt

As others have said just invest some money in the standard brakes and you should be ok. So check front discs and pads are ok, make sure the calipers are moving freely, flush the brake fluid and replace with dot 4 or dot 5.1 and finally check the rear brakes are in good order and well adjusted.

If you still want more stopping power then think about uprated pads (Mintex M1144 are my fav and you can get them for the 300s), uprated discs (drilled grooved are available but TBH I'd just stick with OEM ones) and perhaps some brake cooling ducts (seemed to make a difference on my 360). Wheel choice can also help - I'm pretty sure my mk2 GLT alloys help brake cooling compared to the mk3 GLT alloys because they allow more air to get to the brakes. Once you've done all that the next step is probably a custom brake setup which means big bucks, and TBH would not be needed on a 1.4!

stealthstylz wrote:Why is making your own brakelines dangerous its just doing what the manufacturer does yourself. You can buy kits to make em its a bit fiddly but not difficult.

Matt

I have never seen one of these kits, but goodridge netherlands are not too far from where I live, I was there when they made my brake lines. Basically, you pay way too much for what it is... they assemble the correct lengths of brakeline and fittings, and then they press a metal collar over the joints between the lines and the fittings. That last bit is the only thing I dont see everybody doing at home, although I'll admit it's not impossible.

The thing is, these people make brakelines for a living, they do so for many established racing teams around here, so I trust they will deliver me a good product. Not everyone is very good with doing things themselves, so I dont think encouraging people to make their own lines is sound advice.

To finish I'd like to repeat what I said earlier: braided lines are not worth the effort.. rubber will do just fine, just make sure you have good lines cause old ones will expand, causing mushyness in the pedal.

For a a fairly std 340 or 360 the factory brakes are more than good enough.

I would highly recomend fitting rebuilt callipers new front discs rear drums shoes and rear wheel cylinders. Also make the the hand brake linkage that goes through the rear hub is moving freely as this effects the rear brake performance.

The braided hoses are a great idea but perhaps not good for cash/perfromance. I've just got soem as my front flexis are of unknown history. Perhaps a group buy would get the price down??

Rear hoses from Volvo are £15 a side.... a full braided brake hose isn't that expensive when you consider that...

yeah ive seen em for around 40 pounds the kit (braided) and dont they last better/longer?

Cheers
will

Yes, the average price for a set of Goodridge hoses seems to be below £60. As they are supposed to last a lot longer and give a slightly better feel, I think the Redline will have some next time.

yeah THE! redline will be treated to these

Cornholio wrote:Yes, the average price for a set of Goodridge hoses seems to be below £60. As they are supposed to last a lot longer and give a slightly better feel, I think the Redline will have some next time.

germ wrote:yeah THE! redline will be treated to these

and funnily enough

so will REDLINES golf