Glad you had a good time on the track with the car. Can you see now that with some work a 360 could make a viable car?

swordfish210 wrote: during heavy manouvering oil surged in to the pump and flooded the head

Oil surge would be the most obvious-seen many a pinto let fly on Albermarle airfield during the 80's when they used the long U bend at the bottom of the airfeild

It would certainly tie in with the oil level being high on 1st circuit and then dropping as the day wore on.

swordfish210 wrote:few more pics in here:
http://anthonyshuttle.com/photos/llandowmarch2008

theres some quite good ones towards the end

Tires seem to be working rather well compared to mine

I have little trouble of tires beding under wheels no matter how high pressure I set.

classicswede wrote:Glad you had a good time on the track with the car. Can you see now that with some work a 360 could make a viable car?

well i made a list on page 1 of the stuff that i would consider pretty essential for the 360 to become a decent track car legend

jtbo wrote:
Tires seem to be working rather well compared to mine

I have little trouble of tires beding under wheels no matter how high pressure I set.

they might not have much sidewall flex but they certanly didnt grip well Take note everyone....Pirelli P6000's and Budget Firestones dont work well on a track....shocker

Haven't found any real good perfoming street tires. People say Toyo proxes are good. Haven't money dough, to try it.

The flex of the sidewal is normal. Even racetires do. Don't blow them harder to avoid, you will have less grip. You will see the tire has worn edges, don't blame the tire, its the fault of the design/setup of the suspension of the car.

I love this photo...



What body roll?

Some nice piccy's looks like it was alot of fun.

as to your list

serious weight stripping - yes but its free
engine rebuild - maybe but if you were to do it add some performence bits!
brake upgrade - hell no! they are great if looked after, maybe braided hoses.
suspension pick up points changed -maybe
some much stiffer springs - yes
i'd also want to independantise (ok i made that word up but you know what i mean) the rear end - not a big issue..
Probably make my own steering collum -why?
upgrader the steering rack - why?
copious amounts of roll cage to stiffen the body up - copious? its not that bad
some better tyres (Pirelli P6000's are terrible) - agree
LSD - not really THAT important.


stiff springs new gas shocks and poly bushes and it will handel good
maybe your brakes just need bleeding if they dont work so good/pads could be worn.


Cheers
will

Brake upgrade. Depends what king of upgrade. Renewing pads, fluid and possibly hoses etc would be a good idea, as for a real upgrade, really depends on availability of funds and the intended use. Stock brakes can lock up fine in normal use, but I believe they get hot and ineffective quickly. No personal experience of this though

For the LSD, it really depends on how the car is driven. It would make a big improvement in tight corners at speed. Having seen Chris taking sharp corners fast on a track, the inner wheel was smoking away, with not much forward motion. Pity they're so expensive/difficult to track down..

Factory LSD (HÖR unit) won't take abuse you get when driving on track, you would need something more solid.

Brakes are really bad, on some tracks they just don't loose enough heat to stay on sensible temp range.

Steering is too slow, 50% less revolutions on steering wheel should be aimed.

Front end of suspension does not really offer much for track day driving, it will just plow trough turns.

With proper suspension work one should be able to get some power to road even with open diff.

It is easy to hit rpm limiter on corner when trying to accelerate, there is so little amount of grip, well at least that was how it was with my slightly tuned engine, could not floor it because it would just resulted banging against rev limiter.

I loved those P6000's

I think you are onto something there Jani, with less body roll, I reckon I wouldn't loose anywhere near the amount of power that I do now. I'll be able to try soon enough.. I should have stuck my spax on for the weekend, but I've taken them home now!

Fake on monroes doesn't spin up anywhere near as early as Kar did on 18year old rear dampers though, and Fake still has a lot of roll. Rear ARB???

rear arb is a really quick and dirty solution but it would acheive some of the desired characteristics. I've been tempted by switching to a linked setup on the rear for some time now, but still undecided. First port of call is the front, as with a 300 if you can get the front end you turn in properly then the back can be easily made to follow

germ wrote:Some nice piccy's looks like it was alot of fun.

as to your list

serious weight stripping - yes but its free
engine rebuild - maybe but if you were to do it add some performence bits!
brake upgrade - hell no! they are great if looked after, maybe braided hoses.
suspension pick up points changed -maybe
some much stiffer springs - yes
i'd also want to independantise (ok i made that word up but you know what i mean) the rear end - not a big issue..
Probably make my own steering collum -why?
upgrader the steering rack - why?
copious amounts of roll cage to stiffen the body up - copious? its not that bad
some better tyres (Pirelli P6000's are terrible) - agree
LSD - not really THAT important.


stiff springs new gas shocks and poly bushes and it will handel good
maybe your brakes just need bleeding if they dont work so good/pads could be worn.


Cheers
will

Ok i'll explain my list:

Weight stripping: As mentioned, it's free so it really does make sense to do it. Plus if the interior is in good condtion and able to sell then you can make money on it...brilliant

Engine rebuild: i was concerned by the oil that it was chucking out so i think renewing the seals would be a good idea, I supposde porting the head wouldnt be the worst thing either

Brake upgrade: despite having DOT4 racing fluid in (only 1 day old) they boiled over really quickly and the discs turned blue...not good enough i'm afraid

Changing suspension pick up points: The wheelbase to track width ratio is too low. The front and rear track needs to be a lot wider, and since the use of wheel spacers is the biggest load of crap i'v ever seen, the whole suspension set-up needs moving out a bit.

Stiff springs: For many obvious reasons

Independant rear end: I'v allways found solid rear axles to be a severly limiting factor when setting up a cars suspension so if i was going to do it i would build a spaceframe cage to hold the geaqrbox to the body and hand the rear suspension off of that (i'd make some tubular wishbones as well...fully adjustable, Cool huh )

Steering collum/rack: The steering is very wooly and unresponsive. Also the amount of turns lock to lock is too much. 3 turns L to L would be ideal.

Roll cage: Allways better to have a stiff shell when setting a car up, just makes it much easier as you eliminate the body flex as a factor.

Tyres: I like A539's as a dry track tyre... or some slicks

LSD: i just spun the inside wheel when i was exiting bends. Plus the ATB diffs that are out these days really make a difference tot he handling... and essental if running big power.

Anyone thinking about doing some of this stuff to your cars

Frits wrote:Haven't found any real good perfoming street tires. People say Toyo proxes are good. Haven't money dough, to try it.

The flex of the sidewal is normal. Even racetires do. Don't blow them harder to avoid, you will have less grip. You will see the tire has worn edges, don't blame the tire, its the fault of the design/setup of the suspension of the car.

Yokohama A539's all the way. Cheap enough and damm effective in the dry.

I dont agree that more pressure means less grip. From personal experience i think that more pressure with road tyres on track is better. The car feels more responsive and less floaty