Steve beat me to that one! I checked just before I posted pretty much the same thing! Unfortunately the thread for the first UK meet has disappeared, like Steve says, which is a shame! It would be good to see pictures of your project and your car.
Pete

haha.. I thought someone else was going to beat me to it there - took me a while to find the links to the pictures! Get a picture of your 340 in the family photos thread

Steve

the first uk meet was with me n james

Is that the red 340 I was going to buy just to scrap it I'm glad it went to a good home after all.By the way Steve ,do I get royalties everytime people view that picture of Francois and me manding my carb at Gaydon ?

Took the 340 for an MOT today, I was quite shocked to discover it passed first go! Had a look at it up on the ramp, propshaft looks quite sturdy apart from a rubber insert at each end. I am assuming this is the part that breaks can this bit be removed from the prop? Car is actualy quite good to drive and i am finding the handling quite good as long as you keep your elbows inside the windows!

the rubber at each end and the prop are 1 piece. if the rubber goes replace the lot. its not sturdy at all.

The propshaft on the 360 is stronger anyway...plus its surrounded by a torque tube, which is there mainly to stop the gearbox flipping over (ie: with the TT, you need smaller GB mountings).

The best thing to do would be to replace the prop with a steel one. The rest of the drivetrain will take at least 200bhp without any difficulty. There are people running 300+ without any trouble.

cheers

James

when you say a steel prop, do you mean one from another model or one specialy fabricated can anyone tel me if the 1700 crank sensor is in the same place as the one on the 1400? it's at the top on the 440, not the side like the 1400. was having a look at the 440 loom the other day, they make the transplant easy as the whole ignition/injection loom comes out in one bit complete with the relays leaving you with 5 wires in a multi-plug to splice into the loom. Other than the crank sensor and prop strength issues, this swap should be quite straight forward, i recon the std intercooler will fit with some small mods to. now all i need to do is get on with it!
Has anyone got a bonnet for sale mines gone rusty along the seam next to the wing, red would be good!! Will also try and get it on the dyno at work for a laugh, I recon it's better than the quoted 71bhp any bets?

Fit the crank sensor wherever it is on the 440!

Sounds like you're cracking on anyway!

cheers

James

Ran the 340 on the dyno the other day, It made 77 bhp thought that was quite good realy, its totaly stock with 91k on the clock. The torque figure is probably not accurate as engine speed wasn't measured, but was guestimated (sorry it was lunchtime!)http://www.huskyracer.50megs.com/images/ovlovpower.jpg

want a revgauge? i got a spare knocking around - drops straight in inplace of the clock (and you get a clock that goes down by the ashtray in the centre console)

i'd say you've guestimated those revs a *touch* too high - my b14 used to die entirely at 6krpm.

Yes, I would love a rev counter, how much? If i put the revs in lower, it makes the torque figure go up and i cant see it making more than 100 lbs/ft, What i need to know is the engine rpm at a true 60 mph. maybe next time i have a spare 10 mins i will put the timing light on it and run it again, couldnt be bothered/ didnt have time last time! power figure is spot on though as this doesn't need eng rpm
Let me know about the rev counter
cheers
Iain

i dunno - say a tenner inc pnp for the rev gauge and the clock? you'll need to jimmy some wiring together to get the clock plugged in (i think - it was a long time ago that i fitted mine) - it might be that the wires are hidden up in the loom somewhere.

the revgauge just pops in - unscrew the dash retaining screws, pull the wires off the back of the dash (by putting your hand behind from underneath the vents), slide the dash out, take out each of the 30,000 (jk but theres a hell of a lot) screws from the back, front should drop out, remove the 2 flat-head screws holding the clock in, pull the power connector from it (obvious which one), slide the clock out, slide the rev-gauge in, screw the retaining screws back in, then clip the circuit board revgauge contacts (again obvious) back onto it. reverse the removal instructions and yer done! that easy, all the other wiring is already there..

Sounds blinding to me, Cheque or cash Give me an email/PM with your addres and i'll get it in the post to you
PS have just bought a complete 89 1700 drivetrain engine, box, clutch, prop, etc etc so my 1400 and many 1700 bits will be up for sale. The bloke i bought this from has loads of other bits too mostly trim, locks, clocks(no rev) I have first refusal on all the bits he's got so if anyone wants bits let me know. The 1700 engine will go more or less complete (i need the sump and engine mounts) the 1400 will go as a complete unit with all ancillaries the engines will be avalible towards spring, mabe sooner if someones desperate By the way , hope everyone had a good christmas

You work at Power Engineering?!?! How cool! You don't tune carbs do you...

It seems rather odd that its peaking so low - the B14 has a fairly peaky power delivery by reputation.

cheers

James