its in the aux fuse box, near the battery. probably can be replaced with one from a different 360

Cheers Hugh, I thought it could be as it's all supposedly around the aux fuse box for the front fogs, the one to the left as you stand over the wing? I'll swap that tomorrow, and see what I get!
Pete

Pete, when you say you can put your multimeter on the connectors near the fogs, do you mean that if you switch lights and ignition on, then when you turn on the fog switch you can read a voltage (at least 12V) between the (ahem... some colour) wire and the brown wire? (I have a feeling it's a black'un going there). If so, relays (and switching, power circuit) are fine, but it would suggest something inside of the fog lamp unit themselves. I know that there should be two relays on the fogs wiring, have you checked both?

Hi Chris, I couldn't think of the correct word, I didn't want to use current, it was continuity I was looking for! (cheers James!) So I still think it could be the relay. I've tried on the brown and indeed it is a black wire, with ignition on, lights and fogs switched on, but nothing, no 12 v reading or even a hint of voltage passing through. So there are two relays? I didn't know that, are they both located near each other, as further away from the wing, the other side of the battery on the 360 GLT was something like a relay that I traced a wire possibly related to the fogs to. Cheers guys, still need to swap the first relay and I'll either be able to rule that out, or have them working!
Pete

I'm not overly sure where they are Pete, as my set up isn't standard (not being a GLT type) but from what I remember on is the inhibitor that only allows them to work when the lights are on, and the other is the power one. I have a VADIS printout the nice geezer in the shop gave me, I'll have a look at that when I get home.

The routes I would go down at the moment in your position would be to set your meter to voltage, and pop out the fog switch. On the back will be three pins, ones the bulb, the other two are switched 12V coming from the relay connected to the normal light switch (marked + on the fog switch), and the output to the power relay. Check you get 12 on the meter from the + terminal when the lights are on, and that when you switch the fog switch you get 12V on the terminal marked SW. This will prove which side the problem is, and rule out the first relay.

Then go to the fogs power relay (I think on the wing in the engine bay, but I could be well out on that) and check you get a constant 12V on one pin, and that the switched 12V is getting through when you turn the fog light on (assuming the previous paragraphs checkes passed) Sorry I can't tell you which terminals on the relay, but I've never seen one, and it shouldn't be too hard. Also check that whichever pin from this relay goes to the black wire on the fogs goes to 12V when you swiitch the fog switch.

Knowing the answers to those bits will be able to pin point the fault! Good luck mate.

Cheers Chris, very detailed and helpful mate. I'll try those checks later on. It's getting frustrating, for something that should be so simple to be so hard for me to fix, as I've tackled bigger problems that this and suceeded in the past. This won't will not beat me with the help of you all! Cheers,
Pete

have you actually checked the fuses, and checked that power is getting thru to the relay?

Hugh has got a good point, forgot to mention fuses! I have a really naf paint schematic so you can see roughly (i.e. as I can remember it, and without fuses!) whats going on.... HERE
It's super naff, but I can get you a easier to read one later

Fuses are fine, good point though. Checked them first, they are only in the auxiliary fuse box? There must be power getting through, to make the relay click? Cheers,
Pete
Oh, cheers Chris for the diagram, pretty handy indeed.

pete ,off topic I know but theres a 360 rear hub bearig kit on fleabay if you want one for the saloon

the relay would probably click even if the +12v line wasnt connected. the click is simply caused by the switch.

Ok Hugh, I'll definitely check that, had a busy afternoon, so didn't get around to it, however later one I may be stupid enough to go outside and have a mess about with it!

Mick, funnily enough I did see it, though as we discussed, a simple swap for the crashed one would be simple. I seem to thing the E*** one was v. cheap too! Cheers though mate, I don't think my Dad would bother though, he's not got the time and he'd rather it went as it is.

Pete

Huskyracer, thanks for the tip on the multimeter diode test! I meant to say I matched the symbols up, new I'd seen it before somewhere! Both the original diode and my spare work. You learn something new everyday...............
Pete

Dont thank me pete, Thank my C.D.T. teacher! See mum, I did learn somthing at school