Think you may be right there man.
If the engines coming out anyway...............
The easy upgrade becomes a much greater undertaking.
Which is usually the way....

As I said, it was all planned for Jet when I was keeping her, but the whole being thrown out of my house by the pope thing ment I had to get Fake runnign

2.3 really wouldn't be anymore effort, manifolds are the same, though if I were doing that I'd try and find a running 2.3 240 scrapper with all the bits I guess. Then you have both cams to play with (ahh, hang on, you have a GLE... so not an A, but still). As with anything, if you sit and think about it, and get your head round what needs doing, it won't be hard.

so for a 2.3 convertion what would the best doner car be to look out for, also is there much that can be done to the 2.3, i would like about 180bhp as its eaither mod the 360 or buy a bmw m535i, but i like the volvo (bmw is 220bhp but weighs alot more) also all of the 2.3 volvo turbos i see all say low compresstion, this is another option, now i am a mechanic but i dont get the low compresstion, is it the turbo running something like 3psi of boost or is it a low compresstion ratio engine, a friend of mine who has the bmw is building a skyline and he is upping his compresstion to run about 2.2 bar of boost but i was looking at a build project on a e36 turbo m3 he ran highter compresstion blew his engine up on the dyno then ran lower compresstion, any ideas

I think you may be confusing engine compression with boost pressure?

eg. the 2.3 turbo's you were seeing were probably low pressure turbo's, which is no biggy as they're just restricted to low boost pressure (3.5psi) from the factory.

Turbo charged engines do run lower compression ratio than N/A's generally, but the late redblocks in the 360 have a fairly low compression ratio anyway.

How about adding a turbo to the B200E and running Megasquirt? 180bhp would be perfectly achievable and without requiring too much boost. Very much like Stav's car up for sale recently.

aaaaaaahhhhhhhh low pressure, thats my bad, would it be a straight swap for a turbo engine out of a 700/900 series, if so which would the best be, also i understand that all the intercooler and turbo stuff would have to be fettled but i mean water pipes,engine mounts, ecus, etc

volvodspec wrote:lh2.4 converted b200e:
http://forum.volvo300club.nl/showthread.php?t=5248

Can anyone translate some of this? Or just a general summary... did it work?

it did work perfectly, Ruben sold it unfortunatly but there were no problems with the LH2.4 conversion.

i can translate conversion story this afternoon/evening for you; maybe worth a new topic.

so a little translation for parts that are needed:

camshaft (FS300)
240 loom
temperature sender for cylinderhead to accomodate with the LH2.4 (from 240, 740,940)
TDC sender for LH2.4 (from 240/740/940)
LH2.4 flywheel, single mass flywheel (240/740/940)
new flywheelbolts (reccomended!)
LH2.4 and EZK (lambdafeedback injection system with electronic ignition)
saab 900 turbo injectors

Ruben also named various normal replacement parts (oil, filters, oilseals, gaskets etc)

temp sender; needs to be replaced for the lh2.4 unit
knock sender; placed in a not used blanked hole in the b200 engine
lambda sender; welded bung in the downpipe
TDC sender; engine allready has the mounting points, though the bellhousing needs to be adapted.
flywheel; original 360 flywheel can't be used for new injection, use the flywheel from a redblock 240/740/940 at least 1989 or younger with LH2.4 ignition
clutch; original 360, use the original 360 bolts for the pressureplate, since the 240 hex bolts grind in the bellhousing.
throttlepositionsender; needed from a 240/740/940
AMM; use from the 240/740/940 instead of the 360's famous "flapperbox"
fuelrail, pressureregulator, injectors; use the original 360 fuel rail, the original pressureregulator works at 2,5bar, slightly less than the 3bar in a LH2.4 240/740/940, slightly larger injectors from a Saab 900 turbo are placed to compensate for this.

above list should be enough to get the car running, however Ruben was struggling getting the ignition correct, since it didn;t work that well with the high lift cam. for a bit more daily use a better manifold/downpipe and a V type cam would be a better solution and you possibly wouldn't have iginitio misfires. also for the regrind high lift FS300 cam listed above the rubbers below the lifters should be replaced with lashcaps.

Ruben started with a stage 2/3 exhaust manifold, a bigger 3" throttlepositionsensor from a 960 with an adaptor for 8v manifold (available at www.yoshifab.com) the original bracket for this needs to be modified to cope with the 3"unit. and a EGT system kit was on the to do list; however unfortunatly due to sell it stopped here.