pyro wrote: pump

volvodspec wrote: floater

i has a toy!!


i dont recognise alot of the gaskets but im hoping it will become apparent when i take the carb off the car!

Ben

Good luck dude.

thats what she said!!

haha beat you to it!!

Ben

Touche sir.

wtf, that's the wrong refurb kit

only the floater will come in handy i'm afraid..

well its the wrong carb kit i got, but al the gaskets were intact and it cost me a quid so im not going to cry over it!

however since ive had the car there has been a pipe flapping around the carb area not doing anything...

its to short to reach anywhere and i cant seem to trace where it goes

but im wondering if it is suposed to go on here -





????

Ben

that's the floaterchamber breather; the pipe itself should be open and the thing at the base next to the pipe has a rubber valve with seals the floaterchamber breather above idle

you can see this if you apply a little throttle

oh and i see that you might be lucky that there is 1 correct partial load membrame in the kit

volvodspec wrote:
oh and i see that you might be lucky that there is 1 correct partial load membrame in the kit

nope it doesnt fit lol i tried it!

cheers for that ill ahve a look at that pipe and see where it goes when it stops snowing!

Ben

aa finks a fixed it!!!

idles a bit high but it picks up far better when warm now, choke light is still flashing a bit but i can deal with that.

Ben

That pipe that leads nowhere, in my carb there was some amount of dirt sucked into float ventilation valve, which had then stuck well solid, had to take it apart and clean it, also it did not move well without lubrication, then I did add fuel filter to end of hose to prevent more dirt from entering that place. However I think something more elegant solution is needed.

I did found car gasket kit for carb, it is same for z4 and z11, I still need float and I'm not too sure about jets and emulsion tubes, need to check if those are ok and not modified.

http://jtbo.pp.fi/images/album/360/cisac2/service_kit/

One thing is that carb bottom, base plate, when carb is tightened too tight (should only be something under 10Nm!), that soft metal used to make carb tends to give and bottom of carb is then U-shaped.

Piece of windowglass (thich one if possible, like aquarium glass) is good surface, put glass on table, then put wet sandpaper top of glass you need to attach it somehow, then disassemble carb and take off little bit from bottom of carb by moving carb against sandpaper (sorry sounds stupid, my limitations with words ), take ass little material of as possible, remember to add water to sandpaper so it won't get chocked, when carb bottom surface is evenly clean it should be straight and it will be good. Takes few hours, but I guess that it is needed to make carb act like they originally did.

This was how my carb had warped:


Here is pic of my sandpaper setup:


Here you can see how at first only edges are touching sandpaper:


There is few other random shots:
http://jtbo.pp.fi/images/album/360/solex%20cisac/

Pics of carb + technical drawings and stuff:
http://jtbo.pp.fi/images/album/360/cisac2/


Also in technical resources section of this website there is information how to set idle mixture base setting and idle rpm base setting, can't remember now how many turns each of those were, but it is all there in documents.

Maybe not help for pyro anymore as his carb works, but maybe someone else can use this stuff...

awesome cheers jtbo, could have done with that 3 weeks ago!

however shes carried on running like a bitch!

its knocking like a whatever

piddling oil

no power - few dead spots on acceleration, put eager enough to rev when clutch dipped.

drinking fuel - still

runs a bit warm - but that could just be my electric fan kicking in a bit late.

smoking at idle

rough, searching at idle

a bitch to start when warm.

im debating a b230a that foggy has offered me. thoughts?
whats the deal regarding changing an auto engine to a manual? (the b230a was/is in a auto 240) flywheel, clutch plates etc...

Ben

Auto motor to manual motor, flywheel, maybe starter, throttle linkage can be different.

To make 230 to fit 360, waterpump, oil pump/pickup and such small details.

It is easier to service carb completely, but you get more torque with 230 route.

jtbo wrote:Auto motor to manual motor, flywheel, maybe starter, throttle linkage can be different.

To make 230 to fit 360, waterpump, oil pump/pickup and such small details.

It is easier to service carb completely, but you get more torque with 230 route.

ive decided to fix up the b200k, so looking for a new head, depending on the results of a compression test.

im pretty well versed in 360-fying an engine, had, and help on numerous thread regarding such a swap thanks to foggy and chris_C 's tutoring!

Ben