b200 problems (Again)

[jtbo]

Pics?

[pyro]

hope you can see what i mean by them, pic 4 (or 6 depending how you read them!) shows the brassy colour on one part of the piston. after a better look now it appears as though i can move all the pistons round, but im not sure how much/what the tolerances are!

Ben

[jtbo]

Is it my imagination here or what, but some passages looks like if they were being blocked by some soot in channels?

[pyro]

i did knock some sooty stuff about in my fiddlings today. it will be properly cleaned out tomorrow or whenever i next get a chance.

Ben

[jtbo]

If those channels have been blocked, it might be partly reason for problems too, imo.

[pyro]

yea i was thinking that.
does anyone know the clearance that the pistons are supposed to have in the bores? they seem to sit central in the bore, however there seems to be more movement in the forward-back motion (ie shaking towards the front of the engine and back again) compared to side to side. like the bores are oval.

im reluctant to believe that the hole engine is foobar'd given the reliability of the redblock engines. and the fact its only done 68k vs the 500,000 odd on our old 240! (which is still going strong!)

Ben

[jtbo]

Green book should have that info, if not I think that my Haynes had some numbers, which I could look up tomorrow (book is in garage and I'm already in bed ).

[pyro]

well i removed the cam from the head a few mins ago, there appears to be no wear on a tappets, shims or whatever.
however there does appear to be a crack/a bit missing on the journal in pic 2. is that supposed to be there or no?

there is also some pitting and scoring on the cam journals pics 3 and 4.

Ben

[jtbo]

I would think that is a goner, if I see correctly there are some metal chips, so oil filter failure, low oil level, oil pump failure, or something, if filter is gone bad and metal chips have run across the engine it has lot more marks at bottom end.

But I would like to see what other's have to say about this, my experience is bit limited with this level of motor stuff.

edit: I don't at least remember that crack being there when I did undo my cam and replaced the seal, I can be wrong of course as my memory is not the best, but if anything I think that there should of been just small hole if even that.

[pyro]

id be inclined to agree, this is the first time ive had an engine stripped down so all new to me.

id like to drop a new lump in. seen as ill be gettign rid of the current b200, id like to put a b230 in. but finding one local to me is prooving a huge issue!

ben

[pyro]

dad seems to think that that crack is just a poorly formed oil return. ive worked out the hole goes into the oil ways inside the head, if i stick a screwdriver through it i can see the blade in the oil feed holes by the head bolts.

Ben

[pyro]

well ive found me a b230 (f?) (cant remember suffix) from a late 940 for 100 quid. unfortunatly the guy wants alot more to include ecu and loom. (LH 2.4?)

however it will come with inlet manifold, injectors etc. is it possible to rig this up on a 360 with out the original loom? i assume i can come by and ECU on ebay.

how would this run on carbatooters? (ie the solex i have now until i can get somthing better)

Ben

oh yeah, how heavy are the lumps? i need to see if dads c3 will take it with out being a cheese eating surrender monkey.

[jtbo]

Lumps maybe somewhere around 150ish in kg.

You can of course make your own loom, but it is quite like job from the arse really, especially with these oem systems, as them are wired all so weird way compared to what my logic says, also schemas are pretty much same as writing of Inka's to me, I prefer method where wires are drawn how they actually do run and not by just some codes and numbers.

If you are going to run it with carb, then there are some issues, for example there is water circulation inside of intake manifold, fuel injection does not have holes for this, so it may cause some problems, then second problem is that carb is kind of balanced scale, if something changes in the engine, scale is not balanced anymore and it really causes lot of problems, probably running lean, so carb would be need of jetting, which is kind of black art, parts are not available from everywhere and tend to cost more than few pennies.

One can get some base settings for jets from B230K as it has had almost same carb, z11 but it had few differencies, getting jets and emulsion tubes from such might let it work somehow, but different cam still causes it to run not so well.

Then you have still ignition to worry about, Renix ignition map will not be properly tuned for that engine, it may pink or it may just be loss of power, it really is pita.

I don't know what kind of prices those oem injector systems are swapped usually there, but I would say it is worth some money especially when it has all needed sensors, air flow meters etc within, saves really lot of hassle when one gets all from source and that is worth quite few pounds, imo.

[pyro]

hmm, i shall see if i can pester him on the price then.
i think it includes the renix and flywheel so that shouldnt be much of an issue there.

does the injection system want an exhaust sensor, and anything else like that? how would one go about fitting a boss in the exhaust to take a sensor?

Ben

[Ride_on]

hmm, i shall see if i can pester him on the price then.
i think it includes the renix and flywheel so that shouldnt be much of an issue there.

does the injection system want an exhaust sensor, and anything else like that? how would one go about fitting a boss in the exhaust to take a sensor?

Ben

You need either part of the 940 down pipe and make up the rest custom anyway, or just fabricate completely. I'm debating whether to use the 360 system or not, others don't recommend it but I don't want a noisey/popping uncultured beast. I'm trying to use as much of the 940+360 Engineering as possible and not introduce new variables.

I'm not unsure that the hole you showed is not abnormal, ie could be ok, I have a vague recollection of a similar thing but smaller in one of mine. Don't worry about piston movement, sounds pretty normal, its the rings that do the sealing. The specs in the manual are for groove clearance and ring end gap. Either you have to remove the pistons or have done a compression test with engine assembled.