Well after two days of work i finally have the front of my car lowered, started on the left first and had loads of trouble getting the speedo cable out and gettin the arm to drop low enough for the spring to be moved outside the body, did the right hand side this morning and was really easy once i knew how, pics will be posted later, its currently sitting about 3-4mm higher than before, are the springs likely to settle down and get lower??
cheers
Ali

How we do it in Sweden. Twin blades to make it stiff and a lowring block:

progress pics:





cheers
Ali

Fitting lowering blocks sometime within the next week hopefully, any tips on fitting them? I havent worked out how to seperate the leaf from the plate to slip the block in after undoing the bolts, with those double layer leafs what is the extra leaf from and how did you attatch it?
cheers
Ali

Ali wrote:what is the extra leaf from and how did you attatch it?

Yeah, what he said! I'm interested...

Who did the springs come from again? Any word on how much of a drop they should be, and for which car (weight being a major factor here!). Even if the car isn't any lower, it ought to be spectacularly stiffer - if those WAY shorter springs have *raised* it so far, that's telling you something about how stiff they are!

cheers

James

The extra blad is from a volvo 300 but the ends are cut off. The only attatchment is the extra long bults. The car is going to be higher without lowring blocks.

The left car is stock, the right have twin leaf without lowringblock.


Another picture on how high it is:


This is some twin leaf made from a factory in Stockholm. Its a modify 300 leaf. Whit this leaf you dont need lowring block. Its lowerd from factory 40 mm.



Edit
Its nothing that hold the plate and the leaf togheter just the bults. Its easy to slip the block between.

James the springs were from Dai, specified a 40mm drop but is pretty much same as before, drove it briefly today but couldnt feel a massive difference, its not a bumpy ride and theres still a fair bit of bodyroll but can't really tell with the rear still soft, could definately feel the difference when pushing down on the corners of the bonnet, the springs were made up specificly for the B14 i'm pretty sure. Perhaps it may work out well if i can get double blade leaf springs and use my lowering blocks, would give stock looks but much stiffer. Should be able to get hold of some leafs and cut them down but what holds them in position other than the centre pin and hole?
cheers
Ali

Without encouraging maniacal behaviour on the public highway, I'd expect that you'll notice it most in sharp, low speed cornering. Is this with stock shocks? Shocks and springs tend to work together, and I'm lead to believe that Volvos tend to be set up with roughly correct springs, but they're under-damped (ie: fitting stiffer shocks will go a long way).

Curious that it hasn't been lowered much at all, especially looking at the difference in the springs!

cheers

James

It is probably lower than a new car with stock springs, dont forget the old springs were "old " and probably were shorter than when fitted new due to age and wear (if that makes any sense )

what holds them in position other than the centre pin and hole?

Nothing!

But you can take the leafs to a spring leaf company and ask them to make som clips to hold them togheter. When you are there ask them if thay can lower them at the same time.

Tried fitting the lowering blocks the other day but cant manage to get the last bolt out of the plate above the leaf. I was attempting the left leaf and the the left rear bolt was hitting the drive shaft when I was trying to remove it, any ideas?
cheers
Ali